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Coolant leak
2006 3.0
So I have a strange coolant leak I can't isolate. Entire system was replaced 2 years ago. Leak(decent puddle) appears 20-45 minutes after car is shut off. Location is 1.5-2ft from front driver's side tire towards center of car Doesn't leak at any other time. Was thinking water pump but location of leak on ground doesn't seem to make sense. |
The problem with location is that if it hits the stiffening plate, all bets are off the original source.
Since it's relatively cool out still you can run without the mechanical fan (I didn't put mine back on yet). Remove the fan and you can easily see the entire front of the motor to determine if the leak is from motor mounted part like the thermostat. The usual culprit is the reservoir and that is usually pretty easy to determine. Again with the fan/shroud out it is much easier to determine. The aux pump is right above where you are describing so that might be an easy thing to rule out. You may have to remove the air box to get a look but that's easier than the fan. |
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Tools needed to pressurize a COLD cooling system for diagnostics
Note: STANT 12030 threaded system testing adapter is required to test most BMW and Land Rover cooling systems with a threaded filler neck. Images below are for a 3.0 application As Andrew posted it not rocket science. Pressurize, look for drop in pressure on gauge, find source! Oh, see #4 sensor in lower rad hose? The seals go bad all the time. You can either buy the sensor with the seal or just the AFTERMARKET seal. See Rockauto.com for the $.88 seal |
Somebody adapted his motive pressure bleeder and an old coolant cap which does the same job it's very nice that with the 1/2g size air tank is very friendly to volume changes not changing pressure and a decent pressure gauge. I've been wanting to do the same and kicking myself for not keeping the old caps when replacing EITHER of my reservoirs.
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would only take a cap, a coupler and the pressure tank or a pump kit like above. All get you there....
The pump kit like Stant's, allows you to test something other than BMW's :) |
If you make an adapter out of a bleed screw you can test everything including the cap.
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I've also had good luck hunting for non-obvious leaks with a coolant UV dye kit (UV Glasses, UV flashlight & UV dye) found on Amazon. You may have to buy the dye separately. Make sure you get the dye for cooling systems, not oil.
Put 1/2 bottle (1/2 ounce) in expansion tank and run it for a day or two .. Then at night put on glasses and use flashlight to find UV source. I just found my leak at the heater control valve... |
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Here's the post on pressurizing using a brake fluid pressure bleeder:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ystem-e53.html On other cars of mine, I've made an interface for the brake system out of an old brake fluid reservoir cap, so that's what I started with here = a coolant reservoir cap. But the bleed screw interface is a lot easier on these cars. And as 80stech mentioned above, the bleed screw option allows testing of the reservoir cap, if you're brave enough to pump to 2 bar (30 psi). I partly did it for that reason, but did not go past 20 psi. 20 psi with the cap not leaking was enough for me to conclude the cap was not faulty. In general, it will be much easier to check for a coolant leak when the system is pressurized. Cold, not dangerous, take your time with a flashlight, disassembling as needed until you can pinpoint the source. Consider yourself lucky that the coolant is leaking externally vs. internally as many of us eventually face. |
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Mainly just like that but it was a large leak and made a big puddle in about an hour. I made a “temporary“ fix using Teflon tape in January 2018. I bought a pack O-rings to fix it proper and never had to use it. You can do fix without draining any coolant if you do it fast enough. I lost navy one cup of coolant |
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How good is your fluid system. Mine has always disappeared coolant here and there... All hoses relaced. Valley Pan. The cover plate by the bellhousing.... She still tends to disappear some coolant now and then. Just topped off 12oz while I have the hood open the other day |
I don't recall ever having to do more than safely jack it up and start from the bottom with a bright narrow flashlight beam and trace the coolant leak up to the source. A leak showing on drivers side could be a coolant hose.
After you shut off the engine from operating temp the coolant temp increases as does the pressure. That likely why you are not seeing a leak all the time. Most auto parts stores will rent a pressure tester and return the amount of the rental fee when the tester is returned. |
I have recently had to source a non obvious coolant leak on my facelift 3.0d. It turned out to be a tiny crack in the plastic return pipe on the neck of the second bleed screw. so it would only leak under pressure. I have sourced a replacement pipe but I managed to stop the leak by using a hose clamp on the neck of the bleed screw which seems to be doing the job until I can get time to change the pipe
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Found my leak. I caught it in the act. Coming from bottom of the expansion tank and the expansion tank connector (17111438820).
Doubt it is O ring on the expansion tank because less than 2 years old. Will have to take apart to see if expansion tank connector is cracked. |
And I am back with the same problem... update:
So i ended up deciding to replace the following for an unrelated reason: Upper hose, lower hose, aux fan swithc, radiator, radiator mounting plate, expansion tank, coolant level sensor, Trans oil cooler thermo stat, expansion tank connector. Now 3 days later I am having the same problem as originally. How hard is it to use that coolant pressure tester? |
Did you swap the two coolant pipes? The Harbor Freight kit works. I bought a kit to find a leak on mine. The BMW adapter worked. I found the leak easily. The small upper tank connection was cracked at the o ring. The plastic groove holding the o ring broke.
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I've only seen it used once but it seems super easy :)
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Really simple
Install BMW adapter on filler neck of expansion tank, Attach pressure line from hand pump. Pressurize to PSI as marked on gauge (NOT until it blows) Let it sit and look for leaks Skill level 1 |
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