Wheel alignment at the dealership results
 

Got it done at the dealership after installing new tires. What do you think of the readings? They said rear camber couldn't be brought to BMW specs coz the vehicle is lowered. I'd installed H&R lowering springs (front with rear leveling kit) several years ago.

Looks pretty great except for the rear camber.

You might want to look at the situation and solution I showed in
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...djustment.html

First is to take a look and see if maybe the shoulders that the eccentric bolts+washers push against may be mashed as mine were in the photos.

Second is that there is a point at which the eccentrics will push against the shoulders, and no more (surely that's where you are now). And then beyond that there is some adjustment that can be achieved by pulling things into place and then locking it down with the adjusting bolt. In particular, look at the last photo and explanation in post #6 there to see the "extra" adjustment that may be available.

So even if your eccentrics and shoulders are looking good, there may be further adjustment possible, without resorting to adjustable control arms, etc. From memory, and probably true within a factor of 2, it only takes about 1mm of motion at the adjustment bolt to get about a degree of camber change.

Amazing insights, thanks! I'll take a peek ...

The more important thing is toe and they are very well done. A little less in the rear to avoid the infamous inner edge wear a little more in front to keep down the tramlining and weeble-wobble on top of crown.

When I DIY my alignment I aim for 0.15° toe all the way around. 0.15*60=9' or almost exactly what you have. FYI; atan (1/16 / 24)= 8.95' or 0.149° so I use a 1/16 " spacer on the front of string tight around the wheels. I adjust the toe until the string is as straight as possible. I actually usually pad the 1/16 up to 3/32 to make it easier to do visually and that matches almost perfectly the high end of BMW spec.

It's worked well for me: no abnormal tire wear and I can set toe after any suspension change that matters without making appointment or the expense of the pro shop.

Front camber is factory pinned and only has a comically small amount of adjustment if you pull the pin.

The front camber changes by a LOT every time you steer so as long as the pinned value doesn't appear to be modified by a crash no need to worry.

The rear camber of 2° is within spec, mine is over that but I have worn ball joints soon to be replaced. You are over spec but with the toe set properly I doubt you will get any strange wear as long as the ball joints are all tight.

They make camber bolts for the front end, I wonder if somebody makes similar for the rear for e53, that you can swap for the eccentric head bolts to get more adjustment than stock without having to resort to replacement arms.

Thank you Andrew, I appreciate your insights! Would raising the rear ride height improve the camber adjustability? Years ago I'd installed H&R 29378-1 that comes with adjustable level sensor linkage in the rear axle. As is now, the vehicle drives amazing after the alignment at BMW Seattle.

I wouldn't worry about the 20% extra camber, it's actually more than likely improving your handling. The negative camber purpose is to load the suspension to deal with the massive side loading during cornering. You can rest assured the negative camber is zero during hard turns. The fronts work the same way. Look at a Mercedes when the wheel is turned full, the wheels must be leaning 5° or more. BMW do the same. The fronts negative camber only kicks in when steering but since the back don't steer they are preset to negative.

Change out control arm #6 in the diagram, 33326774796 guiding suspension link. The bushing deflects inward over time and causes
excessive negative camber.

EDIT I was looking at my suspension today, #6 is the toe arm, my mistake. It should be #11, wishbones 33326770859/60.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...rJYcQ&usqp=CAU

I lowered mine 2" and they couldn't get camber into spec. I installed adjustable camber control arms and they were able to get the camber into spec. Unfortunately, they aren't able to get the toe into spec. So, I purchased a set of Megan Racing adjustable toe control arms. I'll be installing this weekend and then it's back to the alignment shop. I started with the camber arms hoping I wouldn't need the toe arms. If you drop it far enough, you'll need both.

Inspected the vehicle and took a spirited drive through sharp bends and the vehicle handles amazing. The rear axle camber alignment shoulders look ok and the eccentric bolt + washers are within them. The camber doesn't look bad either after further observation from a distance. Rear suspension is pretty much new - I did an entire suspension overhaul a couple of years ago including the bushings of part # 15 (using a shop press), except for the subframe bushings.

I'll call it a day and enjoy the vehicle. Thanks for all the feedback - great learnings there!

I recommend bushing kit for the rear.