Trailer towing
 

I need a trailer and looking to get an enclosed trailer to tow behind my 2004 e53 3.0. I don't have a tow package on this car and will have to settle for an aftermarket tow bar.

What specifications should I be looking for to be able to safely tow long distance without breaking the car? i.e. Is a 6x12 enclosed trailer too heavy for a 3.0? 6x10 safer? Single axle or dual axle?

Any recommendations and insights would be appreciated.

Do you have 255 tires and what load rating? Also do you have air suspension?

I've towed 4500# and I've towed 1700# with 1300# inisde the truck at the same time. Tows like a champ


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I have 255 tires with load rating XL, and no air suspension

Any thoughts regarding single or tandem axles?

The car is rated up to I think 5,500 or 6,000 for the 3.0 with automatic trans.



I have towed a 3500lb trailer for several years with a fully loaded car and it does fine. Climbing at elevation is a little straining on the 3.0 but just make sure your cooling system is in good shape. Expect 10-12 mpg.



On ebay there is a guy making reproduction wiring for the factory tow module. I would highly recommend this as it is plug and play.

Get the OEM tow package. Yes it’s expensive (unless you get lucky and find one in a junkyard), but it is worth every cent.

What does this include? Towing electronic module, it's wires, and plugs, anything else since the tow hitch is NLA

Do you guys use brake controllers?

I've got the Tekonsha wireless unit and it does ok. If you have multiple trailers with brakes, you need to move it around from trailer to trailer. I leave mine on the track car trailer. The smaller trailers I tow don't have brakes so this setup works for me.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...ha/TK94FR.html

I also got an adapter in line with this so the LED lights on the trailer don't set off the blinkers. Can't remember which one, but I think I listed in another post. I could look up if you get to that point.

Originally the OEM trailer hitch came with everything incl. all metal pieces, trailer harness and trailer module. Make sure you get EVERYTHING... There are a lot of people on EBay selling incomplete hitches and you will likely never find the missing pieces.

As noted, you can buy the harness and modules separately from seller(s) on Ebay.

People also sell complete hitch kits and you might get lucky in a junkyard, but have to move fast.

Here is a complete kit
- the 5-sided spacers shown on top of the box on left next to piston inserts were eliminated in later years when this hitch was offered.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...-hitch-kit.jpg

In terms of wiring, is this all I need, does it look complete?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234019343767

There seems to be two ends to the wires, so one end plugs into the module, the other end into the trailer plug. How does the module communicate with the car?

Yes in fact that is actual OEM I think, not a reproduction. All you need for wiring.

I am a bit confused.
There are only 2 plugs one end into the module, the other end to the trailer. Does the module itself plug into a third one that's already in the car? Otherwise how does the brake signal go to the module?

Also what does the module do? Is it the OEM version of the Tekonsha that LVP mentioned above? Or do I still need a brake controller for braked trailers?

The E53 X5 comes pre-wired from the factory to accept harness and module.

There are two plugs below the rear cargo tray:

one, on the outside of the battery cover, where the trailer module plugs into

another just below the rear tailgate that takes one end of the 4 foot long trailer harness that is routed into the body thru a hole with a grommet.

The Trailer module tells the E53's computers that the trailer option has been installed.

Yep, I can confirm that the ebay item is all you need -- HOWEVER, it does not include a trailer brake controller, which you must buy aftermarket. No OEM brake controller was ever offered from BMW.



Tekonsha makes good quality controllers. I don't know if the wireless is justified unless that is what you want. I used a Tekonsha P3 which is a wired, proportional controller.

Ok that makes sense. Thank you.

What kind of gas consumption have you guys experienced? I will be buying a 6x12 v-nose enclosed trailer, single axle. I know it depends on many factors, but what has been the average increase in gas consumption?

Search for a thread on the topic a handful of people posted their fuel economy with similar trailers. The thread was maybe 12-18 months ago.

How much will it weigh when loaded? I have done as high as 14 mpg but typically average in between 12-13. My trailer is a full-width Apex Nano which weighs 3,000 lbs unloaded and I typically have the trailer and car loaded up pretty good with water and camping gear.

My car is a 5MT 3.0i for reference.

Thanks makes me feel safe. Mine is aluminum weighs 800lbs empty, and should be about 2500 loaded.

Yeah, you should be in good shape, especially if it's an aerodynamic shape.

I have now installed the OEM trailer control module, and the wire harness. Checked fuse box and #78 20A fuse is already present and good.

The OEM wire harness is a 7pin round plug with labels imprinted on the cover for each pin. One of them is Electric Brakes.

I thought we need a separate unit for brake control!

You do. The connector has a pin for the brake circuit, as all 7-pin connectors do, but the car was not equipped with one from the factory.

I see. Fake plugs.
Okay, now on to find instructions for the brake controller wiring.

Okay, on we go.
Took a while to find a hitch. Just earlier this year there were quite a few on the market, not anymore. Supply is low and demand too high. Finally I found one so ended up with Reese class 4. The only one unit available in the city.

Hooked up the wiring and all lights work properly with the OEM wire harness.

However, I was expecting some message on the dashboard indicating a trailer is attached, but no such message. Is this normal ?

I get no message. If you have PDC and don't get alerts of about to back into a tree, the car knows.

Yes. No Message

Did YOU install that Reese hitch? any issues?

I know it says the Reese hitch is rated to 6000 lbs, but I wouldn't go anywhere close to that, given how it is installed.

I get no message either - it just works. Make sure you check all the lights though.

Okay so no message seems to be normal.
I checked all the lights (side markers, running illumination, turn signals, and brake lights) all working.
Exception is turn signals blink fast on the LED lighted trailer, and blink normal on tungsten lighted ones. Don't know what to do about that.

The Reese hitch is rated high, but the trailer is 800lb with 2000lb load capacity. So I will not get to the 6000. I had the shop install it but it seemed very straight forward, 5 main bolts in the rear and 2 had to drill bolts in the bottom.

Fuel consumption on first 200km went from 11.2 l/100km without trailer to 15.3 l/100km with trailer.

What level do you set your trailers?
-level, flat
-forward bias
-rear bias

It is difficult to arrive at level flat, but best as possible. I used a 4" drop ball, but it seems like it could level better with a 5" ball drop.

Does the trailer need to be tilted more forward or does it look level?

I installed led test turn signals and I actually like the day blink. You can put a high watt resister in parallel with the lamp to waste enough power to convince the computer the bulb isn't burned out or get the check coded out.

you can buy a plug-in adapter that makes the LED flash go away.

Here is an example of a 7-pin to 7-pin They make 4-pin to 4-pin, 7 to 4, etc.

CURT 57003 LED-Compatible 7-Way RV Blade Vehicle-Side Trailer Wiring Adapter
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFVOF3M...QMEMB2WK479FF2

Okay thank you. I will try this one.
I guess the adapter I got doesn’t do this function or is faulty.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/7-4-...?skuId=8684268

But it does make the trailer flash all night long

The trailer looks close enough to level to me. Good luck with the trip!

Yeah, the LED's on that adapter are only there to help diagnose a problem with a non-functioning light

you need an adapter that allows European factory trailer systems (like the E53's) that were not originally designed for trailers with LED lights to work with LED Trailer lights.

Uhaul sells a similar product. Walmart does too..maybe online only.