Several issues at same time
 

Hi
I'm facing some weird behaviors since few days and start to feel a bit desperate as i can't find anything exactly related to it, so i hope someone will be able to help me with at least few of them :(


2005 3.0dA


Back from a 3k km trip with it, everything went fine during, but on the way back it started to become a real mess..

It haven't experienced any extreme conditions, few bumpy roads, not extreme heat, and what might be an issue starter was a automatic carwash that i saw squirting some water from under the chassis..


To begin with i have all the time a random power loss at high speed. Around 130 140kmh, when i floor it, either it pulls fine, either it just doesn't rev above 3000rpm, sometimes just downshift and that's it.


After 100km, yellow (!) popped up on the dash, showing messages "DSC/4x4 off" and "TRANS. FAIL-SAFE PROG". No changes in driving feeling.
After having a coffee stop, i turn it back on, the same stuff shows on the dash but also the steering is very hard at stop / low speed.

I kept driving because what else can i do.. the steering went back to normal, but yellow (!) still here. Speed regulator not working. And "put your belt" message kept flashing and biping for few miles even with all 5 belts fastened. :dunno:

Next coffee stop, next issue... after switching ignition to 1 or 2, the stop lights turns on and stays on no matter what. Also airbag light turned on, but kinda dimmed, not completely bright.

Had to swear at it several times, turn off and on few times, and at some point the stop lights worked as they should. On the road again, yellow (!) went off, no lights or sounds, like nothing ever happened!

Next issue (like it wasn't enough) that i noticed on the road after all that: the temp gauge is going down as i drive at high speed (bit above the first white mark). Fan not always turning.

Fuel range dropping fast, i'm loosing around 1km each 500m.

Stopped to refuel a bit, at startup same stuff with the stop lights...

Finally arrived home, let the car rest a couple days. Drove it today and had everything again: belt light, airbag light, stop lights always on, yellow (!), fuel drop, hard steering and trans safe message :(
Don't know about the temp gauge as i drove in city and it stayed at good temp (middle).

So at this point i really don't know what to do with it.
The gears are passing fine, no weird noises, no smoke, no vibrations.
Battery is charging well, engine starts without struggle.


Could some sprayed water under the chassis cause all this mess by killing some electronics? Because it really looks like some kind of sensor issue, and not only one. But that sounds strange because the car is also splashed everywhere when driving under rain or in puddles..


Recently changed:
- Air filter
- Engine oil
- PCV valve


Thanks for reading that novel, and another thanks to anyone who could give an input. I underlined the issues as there is a lot..
Hope it's not good to throw.. :stickpoke



EDIT: Windshield washers stopped working also, and the odb module disconnects in the middle of a codes scan. Now i disconnected the battery for few hours to reset all the things.


Disconnecting the battery for few hours haven't changed a thing.


Tried the reset procedure: press on gas, ignition to 2, wait 30secs, press brake for 10secs. Nothing.

"Reset" procedure is bogus - does nothing.

Sounds like a failing alternator - what is the battery charge like? Have you checked the charge voltage (on the OBC) when driving? Test #9 on the OBC (after you unlock it).

So i have between 11.5 and 11.8 when entered the car, then started right away and went to 13.8 / 13.9.
Sounds normal to me, otherwise the car would have struggled to start no?


Also the brake tail lights were on immediately (after ignition to 1) and same for the dimmed airbag light. The related 5A fuse #9 is ok.
Yellow (!) and trans fail message came around 30secs after startup.
Also very strange ODB disconnection when scanning & none of the wipers / washers working. :confused:

So what trouble codes with diagnostics?

Some of those symptoms could be caused by failed ignition switch. Regarding this you could also test what happens when you open the vanity mirror on sun visors.

A healthy battery is over 12 volts. You have almost a dead battery. Either you have a parasitic draw on the battery or your battery is on the way out. You can get the battery tested at most car parts stores such as Pep Girl, Retard Auto, or O'Really. They will load test the battery to see the condition instead of just testing the voltage, sort of like a stress test.

https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_volts.php

As for the parasitic draw, you can use an "Amp Hound" to help locate the parasitic draw or just bring it to a tech.

"Amp Hound" Not a Sponsor and I am not employed or receive compensation for recommending this product.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM5qV6ge2vA

I would have a good look at the alternator, belts, pulleys and tensioners.

So for the codes read before the disconnect and what i could approximatively find about:


51AE Brake signal
3F48 Brake-light switch
4083 Brake light ?
4A30 Multifunction steering wheel / Engine control Module ?
4203 Glow plug control
4262 4252 4232 4222 4212 Glow plugs
4501 EGR (just reconnected the vacuum hose but it disconnect the odb before i can clear the codes)

I guess the issue for the brake light always on is the pedal switch, i'll try to change it. But it didn't died completely, few times it was working / not working randomly.

Not really sure for the 4A30 code, found info about multifunction wheel, or Engine Control Module? Am I good for an ECM replacement?


When i open the vanity mirrors nothing happens, no light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYqI6sCKVD8

I saw this video but none of this happens when i open the mirror lights, the wheel doesn't move and nothing happens to the heater.

But i have the same dash lights as him: airbag and yellow (!) + trans fail message.


What stopped working: all wipers / washers, radio, wheel buttons, heated seats, vanity lights.


The ignition switch sound a good try to make, found other topics with almost same syptoms:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ns-solved.html


About the battery i agree the voltage isn't very good, i will put it on the replacements list also.
Few weeks ago it completely died during the night when i slept in the car and probably left too much stuff on. On morning can't start (with trans fail message) until someone jump started it. Had no issues later until this very bad day.


The amp hound looks like a nice tool to have indeed, but i don't think i have a parasitic draw as i can leave the car locked few days and it will start just fine.


Finally the belt looks fine, at least no noise or strange vibration and doesn't look worn out.

You said the same thing about the battery being fine until I posted the chart about a battery state of charge.

Yep i agree on the fact the voltage is too low to be fine, but about a parasit draw?

Now when i stop the car it immediately drops to approx 11.6/7 and stays around even few days later. With a drain it should have went down progressively? But i can be wrong :dunno:

I don't think the battery is a problem... if you are looking at the voltage via the BC, with the ignition switched on (doh!) but the engine NOT running, then 11.8v seems about right, given that the car will be pulling about 20 amps from the battery at that point.

+1 on what Clavurion said - ignition switch. You have multiple simultaneous electrical issue so you either have a supply issue (which now seems unlikely) or a fuse/switch issue. Start with ignition switch but also check main fuses in the boot/trunk - for loose connections or corrision.

According to the amount of answers about the ignition switch i'll definetely go for it's replacement as first repair.
Had a look on the boot fuses they look fine visually but i'll have a second pass with a multimeter to be sure. Same for the glove box ones.

Is there any other switch or similar component that could be causing electric troubles and should be looked at?

There's a joint in the main supply cable at the front bulkhead but that's not likely to be an issue here as it would affect starting (current) and you don't appear to have a starter (motor speed) issue.

Reminds me of the crazy issues I had that sound almost like yours. But in my case , among other unrelated errors with nothing to do with the alternator, I would get a consistent error "DME- 2E95 Generator - Communications loss - Fault currently present - Fault would not cause a warning Light". Replacing the alternator fixed every bizarre issue the vehicle had.

Never saw anything popup about the alternator in errors or messages. What were your voltages?

Little update on the situation.




Replaced the brake switch: solved the brake tail lights always on issue.

Replaced ignition switch: solved airbag light, trans fail message, hard steering, all non-working things (wipers, heat seats, vanity light). So pretty much all weird gremlins.
Also no more coolant temp drop neither overconsumption. Crazy what a small electronic part can do!


Replaced battery also, the old one died completely (5v), checked for power drains but it seems there is none, the new battery always keep good voltage.


Thanks folks for the advices, wouldn't have figured that out myself :thumbup:


Not all solved tho, i still get random limp mode (for ex when pulling hard to merge in highway, stabilize at 130kmh, floor it, and nothing happens except downshift and stuck to 3k rpm).
+ the message "4x4 DSC off" pops up after few minutes of driving + the yellow (!).


No more error codes but the glow plugs ones. Could it be that? Don't have any symptoms, starts easily, perfect idle, no smoke).

Great that you've solved most of the issues.

Glow plug errors won't cause the DSC issue but it's worth fixing, since the glow plugs are used for more that just cold starts. If you have multiple glow plug codes, it's likely to be the glow plug controller that is at fault. Not a bad job to replace the controller and all six glow plugs.

https://i.ibb.co/XDPvy8m/gse1080250603006.jpg

As for the DSC error, it seems likely to be related to the transfer case gear, since it only pops up under hard acceleration. Have you checked the nylon gear for wear?

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-issues-3.html

Glow plugs or glow controller have nothing to do with this. Are there any codes on DSC or VTG module? Of course glow system should be done before winter. You could wait until fall because the prices of Beru glow plugs and glow modules are still quite high because there was shortage of parts a few months ago and sellers which still had inventory asked silly prices.

If this is not DSC related a tired inline fuel pump could cause this RPM limiter effect. On these M57N engines there is no sensor for fuel supply pressure like there was on previous M57 versions though the supply system is otherwise the same. If you renew the inline fuel pump (Pierburg is OEM) renew the fuel filter too because they are located in the same space.

Both DSC/4x4 message and the limp mode aren't appearing on same time.


After the ignition switch job, the DSC message appears every time, not regarding on my driving style. Usually i drive 5 10min and it appears. Maybe some sensor like the ABS one?
Of course the DSC off button doesn't work, so as the downhill one.

Does it means the car is in propulsion mode only now?


Haven't checked the nylon gear but saw a video about changing it. A way to check it without dismounting the thing?


I planned to do all the glow plugs + the module, but bit affraid of all the topics i see about snapping a plug in the hole. Don't know when the have been changed last time..
Where is the GP control module located? Found different diy, saying it's under the manifold, then in the relay box under the hood...:dunno:


How hard is the fuel pump / filter job? I guess i'll have to be ready to have diesel splashing my face :rolleyes:


EDIT: In addition to the glowplug codes i have 4521 and 4BB6

Parasitic draw and bad battery. Determined, two out of three problems.