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I have told you i changed all 4 wheel bearings,so can't be a problem with the tone ring because it's included in the wheel bearing.
Guibo looking good,and how i know from bad guibo i can hear knock sounds near center console,but i don't have sounds like this. I don't know what to say about csb..it's not new but it's not looking broken... I have this problem from 1year ago...it's annoyng..so much money spent and the problem it's still here... |
If an abs sensor send bad signals sometimes why when i taked out the socket from the abs pump the problem was still here?
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Pulling socket from abs pump will not be helpful. You need to cancel abs function completely. I think there's a fuse that will disable else unplug a wheel sensor.
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Often the new tone ring doesn't get along with old sensor. Also literally ONE CRUMB of rust will throw off a wheel speed sensor. |
https://streamable.com/xzbi18 you can hear the noise in this video,around second 7-9...today i deactivated the dsc from the button and it's making this sound only when i turn left and i push hard acceleration,If i activate dsc it's making on the straight way hills turning left...
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When bearing is removed it's easy to remove the sensor anyways when you can push it out. A good opportunity to clean the surfaces of the sensor hole and put some anti seize to help if you ever need to renew the sensor. |
I'm just stating facts.
I don't know the exact laws of physics involved. This is a fact: Some times when you replace a wheel bearing for whatever reason it won't get along with the existing wheel speed sensor. It's "inconceivable" to most people so it's the biggest overlooked factor of why abs acts funny after a bearing swap. The killer is it "sorta works". No error, wheel speeds show up etc. But what happens is you'll get random abs activation. Or lucky for my wife's case I would get a implausible signal occasionally tied to a particular wheel I've seen it happen personality and walked a few people though it. It's a bit of a long shot but it fits the symptoms if I'm reading them correctly. |
Some theories just involve the possibility of rust getting into the sensor hole and messing with the signal. Just removing and cleaning has gotten a flakey wheel sensor going. They are sensitive like cam sensors and can stop working 100% with just one crumb of rust.
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rust-jacking keeps wheel sensors from ideal distance from the tone ring
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In another industrial application I've had a lot of experience with, we used Hall effect sensors and toothed wheels to control shaft speeds (where exact timing was involved). The factory design was poor, and used sensors that had no"perfect alignment" boss on them, nor did the mounting bracket. It seemed that if the sensor wasn't exactly right depth & right vertical orientation, the speed wasn't accurately measured, causing bad batch sizing and/or machine shutdown. The sensors would vibrate loose at times, making this a recurring problem. I made a jig that I carried in my pocket, that would instantly align the sensor at the correct depth and verticality, while I tightened the bejeezus out of the locking nut. A quick ten-second fix that worked everytime, for me. I never shared it with the idiots working with/against me (for 40+ years). hahaha |
The alignment is based on the offset mounting hole and the flat surface on the offset leg. If a crumb of dirt gets under you can have the wrong depth and if there is a crumb of rust inside it will stick to the magnet and can throw off the reading..
I have had sensors work intemittent until cleaned and also when not all the way installed (screw head broke off I installed it press fit with Teflon tape: worked all winter into mid spring when the ambient temperature made the knuckle get larger and it got loose. I added more Teflon and it's been working for three years with no screw |
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