Originally Posted by workingonit
(Post 1207754)
The pointer of the coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is located in the mid-position at coolant temperatures of 75oC - 113 o C in centre position.
I don't know much about the BMW M54 engine yet, but my experiences over 55 years with other - 1) aluminum block/aluminum head engines,
- 2) iron block/aluminum head engines,
- 3) iron block/iron head engines
tell me that 113C (235.4F) is too high. I'd want the dash gauge to warn me about that temperature approaching, long before it was reached.
Operating temps, & over-temp and/or overheat experiences:
1) aluminum block & heads: - a) '62 Olds F-85 with the 215c.i. V-8, that needed to be kept under 200F, or the head gaskets failed (2x),
- b) '08 Cobalt & '09 HHR with Ecotec all-aluminum engines, both run around 180F-217F (when the fan automatically kicks in)...the HHR experienced 245F, with no damage (1x, thru hose clamp failure), but never again, I hope.
2) iron block with aluminum heads: - a) streetable engines always kept at gauge-displayed optimal running temps, no overheat experiences & no true temperatures known,
- b) race engine (427/441 c.i. 635 rwhp, was always temp-monitored and kept cooler than 200F, due to large alum. radiator, dual fans, separate transmission cooler/fan system, no T-stat (flow restrictor used instead), and a 55 gpm electric water pump. Goal was to run as cool as possible for higher horsepower, less chance of head gasket failure (14.1:1 compression ratio)
3) iron block with iron heads: the bulk of my experience comes with this combination. There were only two overheating instances overall, one survived it, the other engine didn't. - a) '66 Chevelle had a mild 327-331c.i. (300hp) at first, and overheated badly (off scale), when its' first electric fan relay fried, far away from any parts store. I always carry a spare relay now, after electric fan conversions. I raced it later that day, and tore it down at home afterwards (decided to upgrade radiator, cam, lifters, manifold, carb), to check the head gaskets. They were OK. A survivor.
- b) '86 S-10 extended cab pickup, while driving to work, the temp gauge went off-scale suddenly in freeway traffic, and I pulled off the road. Don't know what happened, it was so sudden, but the head gaskets both failed, and I had the engine (2.8L V-6) replaced.
I've read a lot about BMW cooling problems, long before I ever thought of owning one. That's why I specifically asked my friend that acquired the X5 that he traded to me (for the '66 Chevelle drag-car) to be sure to repair/replace/restore the cooling system, which he did (except for the viscous clutch & fan, inexplicably). I observed much of his work being done....
Of course, I immediately put in a hi-power electric fan (3000 cfm), and thought it was good, until I was advised not to trust the BMW temp gauge. Since then, I've added an unused spare smartphone to my unused center ashtray, just to display the REAL coolant temperature at all times (via Torque Pro android app). I have it set to alarm me if I become distracted, and the temperature rises past 220F (104C). I figure that if my two Ecotec engines are Ok at, or below, that temperature, then my X5 should be OK too.
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