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3D Printed Window Regulator Clip
So I ordered a few clips last time I had to fix the window regulator, which was for one of the front windows. Now one of the rears broke but the clips seem to be different between the front and back. So I figured, I am gonna create my own model for the rear clip, 3d print it and let's see how long it lasts...
Find it here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...ip-51357011680 |
Print that sucker out of something bomb proof so that you don't have to get back in there again - great idea, as long as it's better than the original.
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I love the design and idea of 3D printing the clip. After watching a YouTube video, I simply went the route of: - Buying a set of license plate holder screws (with the plastic square backer), - Breaking off any remaining “nut holding” tabs on the old clip, and - Replacing the all metal OEM bolt/nut with the license plate version. It will press fit the old clip into place and go through the hole in the window and lock in using the plastic square nut. $1.25 for a pack of 4 at your auto store did the job when I replaced the regulators on 2 of my windows. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Due to the sharp right angles I can see multiple stress points, proper layer adhesion is critical (is it possible add a slight chamfer to reduce stress?). I'd recommend nylon PA12 for the print as you'll have strength and flexibility. Next would be polycarbonate and I wouldn't attempt PLA or ABS. Cheers |
Thank you! I have no doubt you can engineer something more robust and suitable than the brilliant German engineering solution that is the window regulator and clip system used in these cars.
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I do agree that the stress points are a HUGE factor for this particular part. I plan on reporting how long it lasts given that (a) I did not spend more than a few minutes thinking about the stress and (B) I printed it on PETG. So, it is more of an experiment at this time. I am thinking it will last 6 months at most? I agree on your material choices. I was simply too lazy to switch out to another filament. I am also curious to know if when the part breaks, it causes the carrier to also break and mangle all the wires that move it, because every time that I have had this problem I have had to replace the clip (broken) and the entire window regulator (wires mangled). |
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Now, when this thing breaks agains (it will!!!) then I will pause and try to figure out an alternative. But I am not a mechanical engineer, so not sure how successful that will be. But I can always try! Lol |
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[mention]jac [/mention]Here is the link to the video showing the $2 fix for the window clip replacement with off the shelf plastic license plate holder screws: https://youtu.be/JwFFd7OJGaI |
Thanks for the video link. The piece that is clipped off is intended to take most of the pressure from the regulator bracket when closing the window. But he is installing it backwards anyway so now the entire stress is on the plastic insert and the plastic clip... Who knows, that could be better than the original design.
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And... it broke. It lasted just over 3 years, not bad for a PETG printed part. I really thought it would only last 6 months. Below is a photo of the failed part.
As expected, it broke on the sections with weak adhesion. The failure caused the window to detach from the carrier and fall down. However, the carrier itself is still good, that is, the pulley wires are NOT mangled, so that's a small win. Lol Ok, now... do I take the trip to the store to buy the license plate stuff and macgyver the fix so, or do I 3d print the same exact design again, but this time using nylon?! :huddle Since the break occurred along the adhesion lines, I don't think nylon will help strengthen the part there. I am gonna have to go watch that license plate video again... |
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Below is a view of the "license plate fix", taken from the youtube video and also a view of the parts he used.
The video's author is basically replacing the original metal nut and screw, with an expanding plastic nut and a new screw that can grab to plastic, but he still uses the plastic bracket (he clipped a section off it so he could install it backwards). So he is replacing parts that don't break. I think his theory is that the plastic nut will now bear most of the strain (ie. away from the plastic bracket). But I can't convince myself of how the plastic nut would do that, but the original metal nut would not. :dunno: I guess maybe the plastic nut now expands to completely occupy (and lock in place) the hole that goes through the glass and so it now fully supports the weight of the window when installed. Then the plastic bracket is essentially now only pressed between the plastic nut and the glass, and so the bracket now only provides support (through the little piece that goes through the carrier bracket) for when the window is moving up. :dunno: |
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I reprinted the plastic bracket and did some testing/observation on the mechanism as one raises/lowers the window. That led me to the conclusion that the problem with this darn thing is that when the window is raised, the clip is under a bit of pressure because the bottom of the window tilts slightly away from the bracket, so the metal nut ends up ripping apart the rounded clips off the bracket.
So... I designed and tested a few different brackets, and I think I have arrived at a new bracket (plus new bolt and nut) that should last longer. I don't think this one needs to be exceptionally strong, so I just used ABS. We'll see how long it lasts! :-) |
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Nice work! Next, Etsy them bad boys! :thumbup:
Putting up Christmas lights and look for a tool, I found my extra license plate screw set. So far they are holding good. It's nice to have the OEM regulator installed. The driver window goes up and down fast. |
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