Car not responding to both keys
 

On my 2002 4.4 the car is not responding to the key. No lights, no noise and my car stays locked as if its stone dead.

The key will not work in the door to unlock it. The key goes back and forth in the lock tumbler and nothing happens.

The battery in the car is almost new, the key is new and I tried the spare and same thing. I just used the car a half hour ago and its prefect.

I don't know if its coincidence or not. I went to the back tail gate and pushed that and nothing happened, tried the key again then the locks, keys worked fine. This has happened in the past a few times only lasting for a few seconds.

Does anyone know if there is a control model that is known to go bad that controls it?

The amplifier for the key reception is in the center of the back window. The wires go through a rubber boot. I have had similar symptom when I would shut the tailgate suddenly my key remote world work for a bit but it hasn't worked in a couple years.

In my case I'm confident my key is dead. Needs the solder reflowed but I only have one key so can't risk until I get a replacement.

Take your key to a store that has a key tester eg home Depot that lights up when it detects the radio signal see if it lights every time you press any button

Also fix your key cylinder *yesterday* if not sooner. $10 kit on Amazon.

Can you link the kit from amazon? I don't know what you mean.

I found out the pastic clip that hold the mechanical rod in place disintegrates like almost all plastic parts on this car. That's one issue. So that rod opens the door mechanically and then the micro switch's are supposed to open the rest of the doors electrically in that lock.

The rear lift gate passenger side rubber boot is torn. The truck is in great shape I don't have any water leaks but maybe water is getting in the tail gate.

When you say the booster/amplifier is in the rear gate do you mean in the glass?

not sure about this, but it looks like a possibility
 

Car not responding to both keys
 

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A-Premium Door Lock Repair Kit Replacement for BMW E53 Series X5 2000-2006 Front Left or Right 6-PC Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQQQE80...ing=UTF8&psc=1

That's the kit to repair the lock cylinder. It's got a few significant design defects and can operate about 300 times before self destruct.

My remote doesn't work so I am on my 3rd repair and I keep a spare in my glove box. (and a backup method to get into my car when the lock cylinder fails)

Hey guys, I can't thank you enough. I'm going to work on both this weekend. Great info !!


andrewwynn; If you click on his link about the antenna module. Scroll to the bottom left and it shows the one for the E53. Shows the module location at the top of the decklid under a plastic panel and the antenna in the glass. Its very easy to get to.

What I'm going to go and you should try is. Take the module out, take the covers off and spray all the boards with a known electrical cleaner/lube. I use ACF-50. I've fixed many problems this way on motorcycles circuit boards form the 80's to the external transmission neutral safety switch on my E-53. I've also fixed dash issues on 90's bikes with electronic dash's like that where the reset buttons stopped working. Literally just sparing and cleaning the circuit boards and plug in connector prongs.

While a board could be lose or have a bad solder its most likely corroded, its doesn't take much.

On my 911 the Germans are known for having cold shunts on there soldering of circuit boards. If you have a cheap solder gun and you see a bad solder, you will see cracking all around the solider, all you do is touch the pin and it will re-solder. Fix boards on my 911 this way and was easy, harder to get the board out of the car.

I've got one key prone to failure, too, plus work-arounds
 

Mind sharing your backup entry method?

Since I only have one original diamond key (with a new battery, and a bad soldering job...so it's questionable how long until it fails), and two new e-bay diamond keys (as spare remotes, after I did the initializing procedure; they came sealed, with Cr2032 batteries, but not cut for the physical operation of door or ignition...I don't think they'd work without BMW programming), I now carry the original plus a backup remote (in a belt pouch) just in case the original's solder job comes loose.

I also have a small jumper clip in that pouch, to be able to connect it to the jumper posts under the hood (via a 5-foot ring terminal harness), so I can supply power to a "dead" battery, in the case where I also can't use the physical door key. I also carry an extension for that harness in my belt pouch, for external power supplies.

Attachment 80764

Vid to change lock repair
 

Here is one how to just of the lock. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv2TK3fq10k

Here is how to get the lock out of the door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa8XBvZUh6A

I can't believe I've owned this car fr this long and did not know this.

Thanks to all.

If the module is not functioning (or unplugged for example), the keys will absolutely do nothing. While my keys work, they have abysmal range. Even after replacing batteries. I too suspected the "diversity amplifier" in the top of the tailgate. I even pried it open, and zero corrosion. Sprayed it with electrical cleaner, still nothing.

Need to do the 'ol under the chin trick to unlock the car. Interestingly, using a chinese square diamond, with aftermarket PCB, range returned to normal. I dont have an AK90 or key tool however, to program the chinese diamonds to start the car. :( And im still not sure if antenna is actually just faulty, or if the new pcb's on chinese diamonds just have improved range because even a transponder swap on a working OEM PCB resulted in continued poor range.

Disappointed that i cant diagnose this without throwing money into a new amp...

FCP has no question return first 90 days I think


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