Uhmm....
 

While working on my L1-L4 problem (code 5008) I found that in transmission failsafe under service menu I get a "transmission failsafe resistor" error...

Ok, makes sense, but I was hoping someone could tell me which $#&!!** resistor it is and where.

I know know that it's NOT the classification resistor so it must be with the DME or canbus. (Right?)

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It could be related to the transfer case resistor if there is a wiring problem. (break in wire or bad connectors)

Wow, I hope you don't have an error like my unexplained "Deactivation criterion for window operation: error" It's there but no searches or info were found to ID it correctly.

The gear selector may be an issues. A search found this problem.

Swapped that already...

Classification resistor is showing good but failsafe resistor shows as (error)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c1a2a2ffeb.jpg

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failsafe resistor could mean fuseable link

That's what I thought but it is able to be reset via the Foxwell NT-510.
[emoji848]

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fuseable link or failsafe resistor is likely burnt and not resettable. What circuit are you working on?

Fusible link is a fancy way to say thin piece of wire hard wired into the circuit.

I know that's why this ability to be reset via Foxwell is making me think it's some sort of canbus controlled switch that just happens to be named as failsafe resistor....

Whatever it is I'd like to find out where that little bastard is and replace it...[emoji53]

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Any chance it's inside the EGS?

Found this on Bimmerfest...maybe it will give a clue:

Terminal Resistors: are used in the CAN bus circuit to establish the correct impedance to ensure fault free communication. A 120 Ohm resistor is installed in two control units of the CAN between CAN-H and CAN-L. Because the CAN is a parallel circuit, the effective resistance of the complete circuit is 60 Ohms. On some vehicles there is a jumper wire that connects the two parallel branches together, others have an internal connection at the instrument cluster.
The resistance is measured by connecting the appropriate adapter to any of the modules on the CAN and measuring the resistance between CAN-L and CAN-H. The resistance should be 60 Ohms. The CAN bus is very stable and can continue to communicate if the resistance on the CAN bus is not completely correct; however, sporadic communication faults will occur.
The terminal resistors are located in the ASC/DSC control unit and either the instrument cluster or in the DME.

The wire color of the CAN bus is uniform throughout the vehicle with: CAN-Low GE/BR and CAN-High GE/SW or GE/RT. Shielded wiring is easily identified by the black sheath surrounding the CAN bus.

That's good feedback but also; in every sub module in the foxwell it will show the part number it's controlling. The "reset" may not be for the item (resistor) but to tell the computer it's been replaced.

[emoji848] Thanks I'll check it out

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I hadn't thought about that.

Damn I'm getting old...

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Update....

Still having the 5088 code without rhyme or reason.

Sometimes failsafe after driving when put into Park.

Sometimes while driving...

Sometimes immediately after resetting just putting it into drive kicks off
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8b1ca6176b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a0093d4404.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...76ad2fb30c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7604461a40.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2c98c22f00.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVu4cmoZ3xA

look at this!

Thanks, but I've seen that and this falls under what he was saying about the error in the shifter and not the magnetic switch in the valve body.
These other symptoms seem to be something additional I think.

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Can you easily access a newer shifter over there?

I've replaced it twice both used realoem.com shows it's around $500 USD but here it's $1320 USD.

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Another update.....

Interlock cable is shit, replacing today and hopefully that will quit tripping the failsafe resistor (transistor) [emoji848][emoji1696]

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GUESS WHO FIXED THE 5088 CODE!!!

NOT this guy....[emoji24]

Came up again on the drive home from work, luckily it was only 112f out [emoji849]



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I feel for you. It was only 112 here today as well. It's no wonder this is the only climate in the US that can grow dates. :)

I guess I'm on my way to going through the DME...[emoji2959]

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I'm still receiving a randomized f#%&ing of transmission failsafe (5088) but I am wondering if the switch/sensors in the gearshift get out of whack when doing a R&R...

Will be trying using sport mode till failsafe or not then will try manual only to see if it triggers failsafe.

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If I'm understanding your Foxwell picture correctly, you have an open(or poor connection to) torque converter solenoid ?? I think maybe you're being bamboozled by the failsafe resistor thing which could mean anything, or even nothing, depending on the guys that wrote the Foxwell software.

The 5088 can be the magnetic switch in the valve body but when the L1-L4 is shown with a 5088 it's in the servotronic gearshift, so I'm still running with that basis.

Now as to whether the servotronic gearshift or the interlock cable is causing the failsafe resistor (transistor) to activate or is it the other way around.

Let's just say that the White Witch has almost been burned at the stake several times since this started...

Also heat isn't a factor since it can happen cold and warm, but has happened once when hotter than 2 mice f#€king in a wool sock. (See below)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cebfa528d8.jpg

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So....[emoji90]

Would anyone who still has access to newtis be able to tell me if there's any kind of adjustment, synchronization or voodoo I should do to make sure that the mechatronic gearshift is for sure in sync with the data sent to the transmission?[emoji848]

I am at a complete loss and so far the only adjustment I've seen is the menu below but that's for the mechatronics in the valve body (pure assumption) but who knows and who knows what kind of damage I may do once I start dicking around with the settings..[emoji15]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b1761662a9.jpg

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LOL...2 mice...lol. We are going to have a nice cool day here at 107F/41C. We are finally on a cooling trend. Our evenings are now down in the lower 80's F....I'll finally be getting around to some cosmetic work on the E53 as it gets to a reasonable temp to work on it.

Same here. it's been in the high 70s when I leave for work at 6am, and a mild 98 at noon. Time to get back to work on the Beastie.

Okay, now you're just being mean[emoji1787]

A high of 98f? It hit 120f here and once in a flaming moon 140f[emoji291]

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He was saying it cooled off to 98 so he can resume work


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I know, but when it gets that low I'm used to sitting on the patio furniture waiting for the sun to come up [emoji1787]

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Maybe try INPA?? Without arguing which is better, sometimes just using a "different" diagnostic platform will help turn on the light bulb for what's going on.

I wish I had it but getting most things here is just as hard as getting a ham sandwich.

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Installed new magnetic switch in the valve body and did mechatronics adjustment, plus code reset.

So far 5088 code is gone and the White Witch isn't getting burned at the stake (yet) by the wife....[emoji28][emoji15]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...aec6a867cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d99d9f3450.jpg

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So, the total cost of 2 each servotronic gearshifts, 1 interlock cable and one mechatronic switch came to....

$733.17 USD and 1 extremely pissed off Asian woman. [emoji28]

Sooooo worth it (imagine the eyeroll as I typed that...)[emoji1787]

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You're lucky an eyeroll is all you got brochacho.

Congrats on fixing. Always satisfying.

Uhmm....
 

One more vote for keeping my e53 actual gear shift! At least your Asian wife not 5'10 I'm guessing.

Yeah, but I'm still afraid to go to sleep [emoji28]

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I still have mine and a spare.. (maybe)

You guessed correctly, but 5' tall women who can climb on a countertop are a shitload scarier....[emoji15]

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Where'd you source this switch from? It looks like I'm in the same position here in Kuwait.

Countertop jumpers! Try sleeping with a third degree black belt that placed second internationally who twitches at night.



:wow:

My good friend got "karate chopped" by his now wife when she woke from alarm clock and swung her arm to snooze. Don't be between wife and snooze button!

I caught a knee - just once - in the "gearcase". That's all it took.:bawling:

I took apart on in the junkyard as here they screw you into the ground on parts. i.e. transmission solenoids are only sold with a new valve body @1300 USD

Not sure about other readers but my Foxwell NT-510 shows L1-L4 in description meaning the problem is in the mechatronic gearshift lever, but if no L1-L4 showing it's the magnetic switch in the transmission valve body.

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Uhmm, no way I am scared enough being married to a chef that would probably cut up the ginsu chef at Benihana's just to make a point [emoji15][emoji28][emoji879]

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Maybe I have the sequence of events wrong on your 5088 error code, but I thought you replaced the gearshift to no avail, then did this switch as a final attempt, which fixed the issue. Do you still think the gearshift was a problem for you?

Yes my gearshift was wonky and the 2nd one had a bad interlock cable, but after fixing that problem I found my error switch to 5088 only making me change the magnetic switch.

I should have written that better (sorry) but I still think that the mechatronic gearshift should be checked out especially since I can't say which other readers will give the differing details.

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Good advice, I'm sure. I recently discovered there's a line of Fords that used the same setup for the gear detection, so perhaps I'll be able to source this switch from a cheaper, more mass produced vehicle.

I got my "wire frame" from a Ford 6R60 for 129 bucks. Installed last weekend, reset the codes, and I've been driving without issue since. The code has not reappeared and my symptoms of a trans failsafe after 20 minutes are gone.