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Thanks all.
Question: there are two in the box, the EGS(TCM) is the one closest to the front or closer to the rear? I put my DIMM in the fuse box attached to one lef fuse location 4 (no fuse) and tested continuity at the O2 connectors. Upstream all tested good, down stream all open. Switched to the other fuse 4 connector and same thing. All up good, all down open. Oddly when I used my scanner to to data stream the up stream was not active (both banks) the the down stream was .99v if I remember correctly. As it looks like at least one of the O2’s was swapped previously, is there away to determine (other than it just seems to be the right fit) which sensor goes to which connector? Are both up and downstream heated? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
The blue connectors are the egs.
The black connectors are the dme. |
I unplug one O₂ and check which one is stuck at .43v. That's the unplugged one. The one that doesn't reach as far is back l bank two.
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Disconnected all EGS connectors, still blew a fuse in Pos 2. Didn’t have time to test anything else but will start short testing the heater wires (redWS) tomorrow.
thanks all Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Well.... the module is good then. I'll see if I can make a vid for you of my disaster..... it's nuts what I found.
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That's prob very good news. Much better to have a short in the wiring vs. the module Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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https://youtu.be/3sD1Jh_b1Wc |
Thank you very much. Very much!
I’m gonna have to dive in today. I’m “husky” too so….wish me luck. My understanding is the voltage is only present at the O2 heater circuit? Red/wS. That true? Thanks again. John Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
My understanding is five wires are tied together with a crimp connector in the e-box.
I would cut the connector out to find which of the five are shorted. You already disconnected the devices narrowing the short to a wire. Find out which wire by measuring each of the five (six including the feed) to ground. They should all be open ckt including the feed if the fuse is blown. It should save a bunch of headache if you can root out the exact wire. You can also continuity test each individual wire to the O₂ connectors to figure out exactly which goes where. It's just as likely the feed is shorted that's why I recommend cutting out that splice and measure each wire separately. Anything that instantly blows a 30a will show up on a DMM. 12v/30a = 0.4 Ω. A meter will show 0.2 Ω on just the leads so you should get a reading below an ohm. |
You already unplugged all the connectors your short won't be under the car. It should be in the ebox, in the giant harness by the firewall or bewteen the 30a fuse and that 6-wire? bundle that combines output of the 30a fuse to the egs and O₂ heaters.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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