Rear Spring installation
 

I replaced my rear integral link, MAJOR PITA. I had to remove the spring to get it in. Any spring compressor you can recommend? I am trying to find this one. It works perfect on x5. Jump to 1:05




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZoG...nel=mesing2005

Not the same but looks promising

https://www.vevor.com/products/new-c...20group%20%231

Also promising;

VEVOR Strut Compressor 45# Steel Spring Compressor, Universal Fit Heavy Duty Strut Spring Compressor, Thick Compression Arms Spring Compressor Tool, Auto Equipment Tool for Car Repairing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097D4V8GF...MRXMVK2CB3CWFC

The question is, where/how to get all the extra extensions ?

You don't need a compressor to remove the rear spring. You have to pull some things apart, but it will come out when you release the swing arm enough to drop low enough.

tool needed to compress
 

Looking for tool like this with the S extensions
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B096FZ41...7ND7NP2P8GNNTQ

that is correct, similar to https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B096FZ41...7ND7NP2P8GNNTQ

Am I missing something? Can't you just align the spring and lift the swing arm from below with floor jack until the cross bolt aligns?

I cheated by having air springs but search YouTube for other similar jobs like ball joint swap that need to release and recompress spring.

I searched for a while for the extension type external compressor no luck.

I saw a good handful of internal compressors that looked promising and are not expensive

I will try that, I replaced my integral link and the only way I could get it back on was to remove the spring. That took me a day to do as it would not line up when I jacked up the hub with spring on. Will try again though. Thanks. I have the side mount compressor from harbor freight but not sure if it will come off once past the frame. What a pain project lol.

Great video and links - I never knew tools like that existed.

When I did the rear suspension work on my 2001 3.0i with all springs, I used an old compressor I already had. It is the same simple style that they still make, with a threaded rod with a hex on one end pulling two hooking things together. The key feature of my particular one was that it was old enough (quality steel, built for smaller lighter cars) that it would fit in the very cramped area for the E53. The threaded rod was probably about 1/2", and the hooks were small and forged. On the E53 there was barely enough room for these to fit, but they did.

Whatever compressor is used, the trick of jacking up the suspension to compress the spring and then using the compressor to just hold it in place, and maybe compress just a little more, is something to try for.

Plumber's strapping works nicely to hold the spring compressed but I have to admit I'm a sucker for tools and was looking at that same tool before I did mine but could not find it with all the extra extension pieces that are shown in the video.

I just got it in about 15 min, had to push hard on the hub to pivot the spring bottom platform but was able to get in barely with the rubber pad.
next time I will just remove the spring and do the integral link then put spring back in. whew.
Thanks andrewwynn for the tip

I can't remember if the swing arm has a hole down the middle where you could use internal also, you may just need a tiny bit of help to get the spring in the right place to push the swing arm up with floor jack

Funny I had my reply as a draft for a good while. Saw the end result after I posted. Glad my suggestion helped of course.


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I got the spring in, needed to push hub in from top and pry spring in with pad. Not too hard.

Tip, remove the spring to replace integral link. Also use a large flat tip screwdriver to tap the integral link into place while jacking up the hub. Had I known this, I would have saved two days on this project. All done, sway bar link, integral link, ball joint, control arm, thrust arm, and sub-frame bushings. Now to do the other side :(

It will go muuuch faster.


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This video helped also show me it is possible to put in spring without a compressor.
https://youtu.be/KPvp0YCuPrU?t=625

Turns out the spring goes back in without major issue.
If anyone does the rear ball joints, do not buy the ebay tool, only buy the Pelican Parts or Turner or ECS rear ball joint press or BMW etc. They are over $130 but worth it, I spend 3 days truing to get the ebay one to work and it only worked after I broke a bearing and realized I needed to file down the flat spot inside edge to fit the wheel hub. Just buy the right tool. I lucklily could swap the bearings to it finally worked but barely.
Don't use this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401839111915

I bought one similar to this one;

PMD Products Tool is Compatible with Repair Replace of BMW Rear Ball Joint and Bushing Tool for These Models E38 E39 E52 E53 E60 E61 E63 E64 E65 E66 E67 E70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z0QQFM...V171MAQZYQC1XX

I paid $55 but this one even less. You can see that people have had success with similar model as e53 so it has a solid chance and buy via Amazon you can return no questions asked if it doesn't work.

The thing the cheap ones is they will likely have cheap bolts so it's critical to lube and take your time let the part move a little each turn as well as the thrust bearings are likey under rated; I crushed one of them using to remove a tension strut bushing which it was the perfect size just wasn't up to the task at the weak point of cheap thrust bearing. I bought new thrust bearings on Amazon.

uxcell AXK1730 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 17mm Bore 30mm OD 2mm Width 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FHT39S4...ing=UTF8&psc=1

They were so much thinner than the original I needed to use part of the original as a spacer but $6 brought the tool back to life.

It probably takes 20-25,000# of force to push this bearing and that is very close to the limits of the tool in the cheapo tools so lubrication is very important.

Thanks andrewwynn, I will get that bearing so I can then sell the thing. I paid $75 on ebay, I am guessing it is the same one, same factory in China?
Mine was an issue of thinness, likely the China factory does not have a micrometer to test thickness their manufacturing process so mine got shipped out of spec. Since it hit the edge of the ball joint on the exit, it just pushed against itself until brearing broke with my long wratchet. BMW could have made extra space like every other car so you could just use a generic press. I lubed mine with grease, luckily it held up, rented a press from Oreilly's to get it pushed in.

I also have the PMD tool from Amazon and it worked fine.

AM.

Consider the amount of forces involved. If it gets so tight to break a ratchet it's binding and something will give. Mine came in a different style of case. I suspect several factories making similar.