That's amazingly awesome.

Part one is I wouldn't care either way, it's not a reasonable effort for a DIY situation.

Part two: you have the car on a lift and lift both front wheel hubs until the weight is taken off the front left p9ints

It's not hard. Ramps or boards to get a little height.

Hub stands are even better, but sadly mine are only rated to 1,000lbs. per corner.

Mid left side engine oil leak
 

That's a big duh on ramps (I've used half width CMU (concrete masonry unit) aka "cinder block"; something that hasn't existed in almost two of my lifetime yet people still use the term.

Kind of like 110/220v. Something that hasn't existed in USA residential since just about 90-100 years ago yet a majority of boomers will use that term they apparently leaned from their grandpa.

Back to topic:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd7bcbde5d.jpg

No mention in the TIS of prep for tighten so it's all good to do with the wheels hanging. Might be slightly better with the weight on the jack points vs. the center axle lift.

The bolts are torque to yield. Single use: if you want to reuse them you can probably just use half or ²/₃ the angle to not actually yield the bolt. Or you can get 12.9 bolts like I did.

As long as they are the solid kind of CMU. The hollow kind is not something I would get under.

Non solid 1/2 blocks have only 1" of hollow. If they failed car would drop onto the safety floor jack. (you did put in the floor jack as a precaution, right?). It.woild for sure scare the crap out of you.