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New owner of an e53 4.8is with issues :)
Hi there,
I recently bought a 2004 4.8is to by winter ride and it came with a host of issues, most that I knew about, and it was priced accordingly. I have a 91 850i and my wife has an Z3 and an LR3 for work, and I do all repairs myself, so you get the picture lol! I have done a tonne of reading on the various codes I’m getting but nothing like a clear picture, and form plan of attack, so I figured I’d join you all in here and ask for some help/advice :) Here are the symptoms I have so far: - Front axle drops fast when SAV is off - trifecta lights all on (4x4, brake, ABS) all yellow, and tire pressure light as well - self levelling suspension inactive message on display (will not go into extended or access via the switch) - when driving, it will drop itself into a fail safe setting and there is next to no power. There are no visual warnings, I notice when it happens when I step on the gas. I have a Schwaben/Foxwell bmw code reader, a Creader, and INPA. Here are the pertinent codes: Transmission: -51AF: signal from transfer case faulty -4F7A: No message from transfer case ABS: -5E24: front left wheel speed sensor -5F39: transfer case VTG: -54C6: oil wear -55C8: no message from DSC -55C9: no message from DSC There was also a steering angle code 9 on the LWS ECU. Not sure if it’s related. Things I have done/PO did: The PO replaced the transfer case actuator with a brand new one, a cheap Amazon one from what I can tell. I removed it and has a look and it does look brand new. I had a look at the TC module and it looks brand new, safe under the back seat. I have replaced the TC oil with factory fluid. I have ordered a new front left wheel speed sensor, and a new front air spring. I ran some live actions on the ABS and could hear the pump work, and I ran a test in the TC actuator and could hear it functioning as well. From the looks of it the transfer case is not communication with the ABS module or the transmission, this could be the reason that limp mode is being activated. Conversely, the TC seems to be having an issue getting info from the DSC, so perhaps that is shutting it down, which in turn affects communication back to the ABS module and the transmission. Could a faulty wheel speed sensor cause all of that? Seems like a circle here but Inhave to start somewhere. Anyone had this group of codes before? The trifecta seems to point to either the ABS or the transfer case from what I have read and I have codes for both! Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated :) |
A few things to start with...
Not in transport mode is it? Check your classification resistor and transfer case motor. Ride height sensors not flipped over? Congrats on the 4.8iS and don't forget to add yours to the 4.8iS section by ViN Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
Recently there were two separate shorted O₂ heater situation that killed power to the EGS. See if there is a similar situation with the transfer case.
Did you say the TC was swapped out just the actuator? Either way check all the wires going to the TC it feels like a wiring/connector issue. |
I've read on more than one occasion people having issues with a brand new aftermarket actuator motor so I wouldn't completely rule it out.
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I knew had I had come to the right place! Thanks so much so far :)
To answer questions so far: It was in transport mode actually, though I put it in that mode myself with the Foxwell somehow, I used INPA and turned all of it off as per another thread in here. No more transport mode. The resister classification is listed as ‘L’ if I’m getting that right from the live data. It matches the letter code from the other two secotions. Which direction are the arms supposed to point? They are pointing down I believe, but will double check. Just the actuator was swapped, looks 5 minutes old. The PO said that he swapped it to fix the lights but it didn’t work. Are there any other wires going to the TC beyond the resister and actuator harnesses? I can make the actuator activate through live testing. I agree that it could still be the actuator. It was a words story from the PO, he told me that he replaced the gears in the actuator and that they were all chewed up, but when I took the actuator off to have a look at it, it’s brand new and aftermarket… seems weird that the gears would need replacing on a new actuator, and there was zero evidence of tampering. |
He first replaced the gear that didn't work so he replaced the whole motor.
You are getting errors that say literally "there is no connection". Connection = wire so you need to root out which wire doesn't connect. I would find out which connector goes from the TC to egs and test continuity on each pin. Not just there is continuity on each line but make sure no cross connection. My transmission connector likes to regularly get water in and shorts out the pins and I need to open it up and clean it out. Maybe similar happening on your TC connector. I changed the TC on a 328xi I think it's fairly similar but I can't recall exactly how many connectors. |
That’s the weird thing, we had a chat specifically about the actuator and he specifically said that he only changed the gears. Anyways, I wasn’t worried as I figured on fixing whatever arises. After all I just sold a RR P38 that I restored, and I own an e31 850i, a Z3, and an LR3 that all need my attention from time to time lol!
I did notice yesterday that the transmission wire connectors were soaked in oil from an above valve cover gasket leak. I plan to clean those up today. I’m not exactly an electronics guy per se, but I do have some equipment. When I testing continuity are we talking matchin the wires from let’s say the actuator wire harness to the control module, or just using a volt meter on each prong? Thanks for the help so far, I did seem pretty clear that there is a wiring issue somewhere! |
Yep extra long test leads and a helper. Any luck reach wire separate color. Test between wires that part is a little time consuming you have to test from each of every other with unplugged make sure no conduction
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Ah, yes. Transport mode....
I still get a hard time from the wife over the Zamboni incident. [emoji28] Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
I have dug a little deeper today. I found a lot of water on the passenger side rear under the carpet.
Here are the live data readings from the VTG: [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/K5WRZpy/1063-BA7-F-...48-F022-F7.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/tH1XVSy/97-EBA62-C-...4832-C14-E.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/Y2gVFWm/E7-E6-B9-DD...9-E28-AE65.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/sKVqYk6/22-F71-E05-...-CDB804-C2.jpg[/IMG] https://i.ibb.co/C2sb7fG/35149163-04...ECBAFD7920.jpg I’m not seeing too much going on here, not that I know to much about electronics. I does appear that the control module for the transfer case is able to communicate though. Is it possible that an issue with the ABS/DSC has caused the TC to stop functioning and is putting he truck into fail safe mode? The only firm code I’m getting is no signal from the front left wheel sensor. |
Abs errors will not cause failsafe but TC errors will
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
Ok gotcha. As a side question, the car goes into limp mode but there is no indication on the dash, and no codes when read. It resets on start up.
Back to the issue at hand. If the code reader seems to be able to connect just fine with the TC module and the servotronic, could it be a faulty actuator that’s causing the problem? The only code I’m getting is for the oil wear, but that has been changed. Perhaps the new actuator needs to be calibrated? All of the connectors look to be in good condition going from the actuator to the module. |
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Would the oil wear issue and code be enough to set off the trifecta lights and throw the car into limp mode after a short drive?
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Ok, so A few things.:
after reading a bit more I am wondering if the vehicle is actually going into official limp mode. I will be driving and all of a sudden there is no power when I push the gas. Just revs and no acceleration. There is no indication on the cluster, thought it still reads SLS inactive. and chimes for lights out. It’s seems like I can only drive very slowly and if left I may even grind to a halt. Very disturbing. I have scanned the codes with Schwaben tool, CReader, and INPA, and none come back with any codes mentioning limp mode. The only transmission codes that come up have to do with not getting messages from the TC. There are no codes from the engines at all. The TC throws a code for oil wear (replaced today), and messages about not getting messages from the DSC module, and the ABS module is throwing codes for a faulty front left wheel sensor, and about not getting messages from the TC. Can the abrupt loss of power be related to these three modules not being able to communicate with each other, but also not throw a code? When I turn the truck off and on again, even while moving, it drives and accelerates like normal, nice and smooth, and powerful, until ‘randomly’ I get an abrupt power loss. Does this sound like a voltage issue? I have a brand new battery, and the trunk well was at one point filled with water, enough to destroy the radio, and the battery area had a ton of corrosion from the old battery. Could the alternator or the ground straps cause this kind of issue? The carpet on the rear driver side is completely saturated, like a sponge, though the TC wires look fine. The random power loss is my biggest concern right now as I would like to be able to drive the truck. |
I don't think your engine is going limp mode on think your transmission is confused.
Can you watch your egs solenoid pressures real-time? I think your xm is failing to shift giving you revs with no acceleration I had similar issues when my xm connector got filled with water and I even had bad shifting before I got xm limp mode. If engine goes limp you won't have revs it will have low rev no accelerating like if stuck in 4th gear. Have you tried m/s to override the gear? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
Check both potentiometers in the accelerator pedal as it could be screwed up enough to not give the range of throttle. (Scanner will show %)
Don't forget to reset the oil wear indicator on the TC.... ask me how I know [emoji1787] Interlock cable in mechatronic gearshift good? Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
When I was diagnosing a driveline pop I disconnected the transfer case actuator multiple times. After doing so I only had the 4x4 light and never went into limp mode (and I was driving the x hard). It turned out to be the chain inside the case was slipping so I had to completely swap the case. Only the two connectors (actuator and sensor) connect to the transfer case and my 2005 4.4 uses the same TC.
Note: when the x5 is turned off the transfer case completely disengages the front wheels. In my situation I knew that my actuator was working and I only disconnected it will the car was off as my goal was to eliminate the front driveline as a possible suspect of the poping noise. You mentioned that you can test and hear the actuator which is good, but another test you can do is jack up the front of the car and confirm the front wheels spin freely. Furthermore, try disconnecting the actuator as maybe the aftermarket actuator is somehow related to the communication issue (far fetched but worth a try). Not seeing any lights on the dash in limp mode is strange. Usually the “cog of death” or EML is associated with limp mode. While in limp mode have you tried shifting the tranny manually in sport mode? Cheers, E53Envyy Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
Ok, lots to do today, I will report back.
One last thing, I have tried to do the oil wear reset on the TC but it says that it fails every time. Also, what is production mode? That is off as well as transport mode for the sled levelling air ride. |
I ran some active tests today with the vehicle off:
[IMG]https://i.ibb.co/nPbBNsW/EE708911-1-...BF8-D4-B72.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/ypKL8qp/E20-C3078-7...-BAAF11-D5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/7YQRVQv/405-E164-C-...A558464408.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/QCbzrms/9-A5430-D6-...D25814-C87.jpg[/IMG] https://i.ibb.co/QcbzQ0v/E4-E056-D5-...F31-D1-F72.jpg [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/cwGm6fJ/01-E96-BF5-...95-B59-FCB.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://i.ibb.co/wLCqTL5/53611-AA5-7...C1-A9-C650.jpg[/IMG] All of the modules look to be in good shape, no water nearby. All 4 transmission plugs were bathed in oil so I cleaned them all off. The rear ground strap look perfect, and the front one looks fine after I wiped all of the oil off of it. I will have to do some live tests of the transmission while driving next. |
Quick update. Replaced the wheel speed sensor and all lights went off. The 4x4 light cam e back, but is now the only light on.
Will report back after some further work. I finally got DIS v57 to work once, but when I tried to get it going a second time the diaghead emulator wouldn’t start. Labour of love :) |
4x4 light usually means the TC is disabled. Did you say you had oil wear code? Getting DSC light off is a big win.
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I do have the oil wear light on. I am having such a hard time using DIS V57 as the diaghead emulator program keeps failing.
Driving me nuts as I need it to run to clear thy code and calibrate the TC actuator. |
I use foxwell scanner hate the computer based kludge
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I have the Schwaben/foxwell scanner as well, but for some reason the calibration doesn’t finish, and it can’t reset the oil wear light either.
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My guess is the steering angle sensor has failed causing the 4x4 light indicator. Common issue with higher mileage X5s. Easy to replace, takes about 1 hour. :thumbup:
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New owner of an e53 4.8is with issues [emoji4]
Check the LEW module.
If you have SAS error you may be able to clear and calibrate. You will want to repair/replace soonish though you can only get away with clear and calibrate a few times. |
Ok some good news. I replaced the front left wheel sensor and the ABS and brake lights went off. The 4x4 was still in and there were some steering angle codes.
I reset the steering angle codes and the 4x4 light went off as well. The suspension inactive message is gone as well once I cleared the code 50 CAN Bus code, and it didn’t come back this time either. All lights and errors are gone from the dash, though I do need to replace the front left air bag. The last thing is the transmission. I reset all of the adaptive codes and have driven around a bit. It still seems to hunt into first a bunch, sometimes I can rev very high. It does seem to be catching now, and I can drive normally, especially if I accelerate gently. Seems like slipping sporadically. The manual shifting seems to work as well. No dash lights or codes at all at this point. I have the foxwell scanner, what live testing am I supposed to be looking at here? The general status text comes back with every thing ok. |
I’m going to put a bow on this thread and deal with shifting woes elsewhere. Thank you for the input in this thread, in the end I replaced a wheel speed sensor and reset a bunch of codes and everything cleared and nothing has come back.
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