Rear camber adjustment
 

Can zero camber be set to almost zero with the stock parts? Or do I need to get an adjustable part to get zero camber?

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No, you can't get to almost zero with stock parts.

Unless you don't take turns you don't want zero camber. O
If you are getting inside tire wear it's from negative toe (pointing out) usually from a worn ball joint or two.

Just changed wife's tires at about 3/32" left and they were actually sightly more worn on the outer edge in spite of 1.5° neg camber.

I assume the E53 X5 shares similar chassis with the E39 5-series.

For the E39 5-series, I adjusted the REAR camber down to -1.3 degrees.
Here are the tricks:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...gnment.547533/

Bingo. I just replaced both rear ball joints and am getting ready to do the control arms now, and will need to get an alignment done. Just wasn't sure is I could get the back wheels a little more upright. Just personal preference I guess. I don't want zero camber, but more upright than they are.

When the new parts they will come to a decent range. Mine went from 2.2 to 1.5

My X5 has brand new 255/60R17 tires on it. With stock parts, the angle is 2 degrees or so on both sides. Measured with my iPhone.

Since you're "in there", you have access to the alignment bolts already. It should be pretty obvious how to turn the eccentric bolts/washers to minimize camber (make them as straight up and down as possible). The guide links (forward upper control arms) primarily adjust toe, but do also affect camber.

So I'd recommend you do your own alignment just setting the adjustments to minimize camber. No need to measure until after you are done, if you want. At that point, you can see if you are within or below spec.

And the main reason is that if your camber is too big (too negative), even when maximally adjusted the other way, an alignment shop might set everything up, run things, and then tell you it was impossible. Doing this first will save you that check.

Regarding measurement, I used to use a carpenter square (big L-shaped thing 24"x18") to measure the rim camber, but I now use a digital angle gauge. I've posted on here about that - the Klein Tools DAGL935, if I remember correctly, is amazing for this. Below 0.1* accuracy. It's a general purpose tool as well, so you can make sure everything in your house is straight and level too.

You definitely want to do a rough string alignment before going to a shop for exactly the reasons mentioned.

I got my car aligned with lasers...and I have to say, I HATE the -1.5 camber look. It still looks like my car is a squatty potty on the rear axle... -_-

All other cars I see drive on the road seem to not have that much rear camber.

BMWs tend to run a lot of rear camber. The E53 always ran more than most BMWs. I always assumed that there was a handling problem that they needed to solve on the E53.

It's worth noting that RWD-layout cars with independent suspension tend to run more camber than other cars. And yes, the E53 was always sold as AWD, but it's very much RWD layout. FWD cars don't need much out of the rear suspension, and solid axle cars are *generally* fixed at zero.

Get over the prejudice of the look. The look gives you better handling so it's a good thing.

Those other cars aren't 6000# trucks that handle like a car.


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Okay okay...FINE! Ugh!...I'll try to get over it.

I'm not trying to hijack this thread from the OP, but I share the exact same sentiment as he does.