The glow-plugs aren't only used at (cold) start-up - they are part of the emissions system and are turned on to maintain combustion chamber temps when the car in't working hard. Diesels can run cold, even in warm climates.

All six being listed as faulty usually indicates the glow-plug controller has failed. I had one glow-plug out, then two, then four, so I replaced all glow-plugs AND the controller. All good for another 200,000kms.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9FoAA...awz/s-l400.jpg

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272428878440

*edit* from BMW's TIS...

Preheating

At coolant temperatures below 25°C, there is a preheating period of 0.5 seconds. The preheating period increases as the temperature falls, reaching a maximum of 2.7 seconds at a coolant temperature of less than -25°C.

Activation of the glowplug system on the instrument cluster only occurs at coolant temperatures below 0°C.

After-heating

At coolant temperatures below 30°C, there is a temperature-dependent after-heating period to improve idling and exhaust emission characteristics.

Start preheating

Start preheating takes place for approx. 10 seconds if after the preheating time has elapsed the engine is not started and the ignition remain on.
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I've also summerised some other information I've found...

On the LCI, the glow plugs operate thus: -

A short pre-heating cycle (2-8 seconds) is used any time the engine is started with the coolant below 30DegC. This is a silent cycle - no message.

The glow-plugs are activated if the engine coolant temps fall below 75DegC while running. This is a silent cycle - no message.

A long pre-heat cycle (10-20 seconds) is run at start up start-up when coolant temps below 0DegC. - coolant temps, not ambient - and this cycle is indicated by the "PRE HEATING" message on the dash.

This last condition - coolant temp lower than 0DegC. - is the only time an LCI owner will see anything related to glow plugs on the dash. I see it only a handful of times a year...

Hard starting on an M57 is very rarely related to glow plugs, even in cold weather (extreme cold weather aside!).

Poor running, excessive fuel consumption and excessive exhaust soot are indications of glow plug problems. A failed thermostat can lead to premature glow plug failure, as the coolant remains below 75DegC. for considerable periods, extending glow plug activation and shortening their operational life.
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Thanks Wpoll, seems diesel have changed a great deal since the ones I worked with in the Army. Probably why they stink so much ;). It is strange, I am not showing any of the conditions you mention for faulty glowplugs. My fuel economy around the city of Adelaide is average of 7.9 L/100 and not towing, open road is 7.2 L/100. When I am towing a 16' Caravan I am using about 11.2 L/100 at 95 km/h, so I think these figures are good. My temperature gauge is always reading up to halfway on the guage with the exception of a few cold mornings, but it has not caused the car any issues at that time.There is no soot or smoke from or in the exhaust even under heavy load. Hard acceleration to overtake does produce a puff of darker exhaust smoke breifly, then it is clear.



The parts you linked are of course a valuable assett and one I will lock into my favourites in fleabay. You never know what surprises are lurking. Did you fit these yourself, if so what was the job like?

Sounds like the car is running sweetly, Jeff. :thumbup:

The glow-plugs aren't a bad job. The intake manifold has to come off (pretty straight forward) and getting at the controller on the left side of the block is fiddly. Changing the glow-plugs is best done on a warm engine - and give them a squirt of penetrating oil 10 mins before removing them, just to be sure!

I did mine at the same time as I did the exhaust manifold....

https://xoutpost.com/1142332-post39.html

Cheers mate, right now I reckon I would only have to lift the bonnet and leave it in the sun :rofl:, 38c today should warm it up enough:bustingup

Just so you know.

The temperature gauge in the e53 is NOT a real gauge, it is basically under operating temp, operating temp and replace warped heads temp. There is a way to edit the hash code and have it actually work and some of the guys on here have done it but it's out of my wheelhouse so I just run Torque Pro real time on my H/U.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

never trusted idiot lights, nor the temp gauge on the X5
 

As soon as I learned from this forum that the temp gauge was just another imprecise idiot light, I stated using a spare Android smartphone and Torque Pro to get my temp info. Since the current cheap non-Android H/U that the PO had just installed before we swapped cars is brand new (and performs good enough for me), I needed a quick & cheap way to see hidden data (you'd think a manufacturer with a "performance" history would always provide actual gauges; but that might compromise the corporate bottom line), and I'm trying various apps, OBD2 dongles, and a K-line interface cable/OTG adapter to get the smartphone ($100 AT&T back-up phone, from 2017) to display basic data https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...le-gauges.html.

Long-term plans are to get an Android H/U, tap into I-Bus with a Resler adapter, and also get an ISTA/INPA/whatever laptop onboard. On my wishlist....

Hey thanks heps for that Gem of info, I expected a bit better from the brand name in trusting the information feed via gauges etc. :dunno: Guess they are all the same, sad money grubbing manufacturers.
So if I am to understand this correctly, this gauge could be reading all over the place like a mad womans cat having crap? :popcorn:



I have got onto a set of glow plugs already as a "Be prepared" situation. They will be the first items to go in and see if the fault continues to present itself. The part of this that pisses me off is the independant that did the service prior to me buying the car, they wrote a full report on what they did and it clearly said no faults were recorded, but these were listed with the number of days out / or past and it exceeds the time of the service even. They have given all bushes and joints the 100% ok, but I have looked and can visually see tears in the front radius arm rubbers and ball joint covers broken off. Not that I gave the slug any money but it reminds me why I do my own work...I trust me :thumbup:


I have a complete front kit now of all joints and arms complete with new bushes. Next will be the rear then I will relax a little. What really amazes me though is that all of this is still less than what it cost me to do the front end on my All Wheel Drive Ford that I posted a picture of when I first joined in my intro. That front end was worth $2600 to have done...not that I paid that much...bloody Ford Stealerships.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bc53ceb742.jpg
155F

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...462b1bf07a.jpg
162F

Infuriating.

@andrewwynn, So have you had your temp insrument modified as EOD has mentioned? :confused:

No but I reality wamt to. The non gauge is a horrible thing.

Three position:

1) not warm
2) quite possibly warm no guarante
3) likely just destroyed your head

You get no warning whatsoever of overheating about to happen.

The needle will point to noon at a temp too low to achieve closed loop. I drove for months without closed loop until fall came and I couldn't get cabin heat.