Power interruption error code 5A
 

I'm leaning towards the ABS module on this one.

I'm only getting 1 code 5A power interruption error, I clear the code and it comes back instantly without driving. Just idling. Using Foxwell NT 510.

FYI Battery voltage sitting 12.3v,load voltage cranking engine, 10.2v
Alternator voltage 13.1 idling,13.7v at 2000 rpms for 20sec or so.

Any thoughts on this ?

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Voltage seems a little low. Put a charger on it overnight. Clear the codes and check again. Check the ABS module connector. The code is a brief power interruption as far I know.

I keep a battery maintainer( CTEK MXS 5.0) on all the time I'm not driving X.

1 Thing I noticed with the Foxwell monitoring voltage while running it's reading 11.7v to max 12.4v. But when I check voltage directly at the battery I get higher readings like in my previous thread?

Where and how hard is it to access the plug for the ABS module? I tried looking but couldn't find it. M54 3.0i engine.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Might be time to check the B+ connections in the trunk (on the BST and on the B+ distribution fuse panel), as well as the B+ at the front bulkhead (B+ jumper terminal) - those voltages are too low even for a reading on a diag system or the BC display.

Here's the lights on the dash.Attachment 81660

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At the 2 jumper locations under the hood I am getting 13.1v with engine idling, 13.7 - 14v with engine at 2000 RPM's, battery with no load sitting at 12.1v at -10c.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

The vBat with fox should read 13.6 ± 0.3

Yours is entirely too low and should trip your trifecta and basically the fruit salad of lights you are seeing.

This is almost always a voltage regulator issue. Most will replace the whole alternator when this happens. I replaced my slip rings and brushes.

I agree fox should see higher values,I question I have is why my meter reads between 13v and 14v while running.I'm confused.also I have I checked the voltage at 12v source on console and I'm getting readings between 13v and 14 v while running. I haven't checked voltage on dash yet though. When I get a chance I'll hook up inpa sometime.

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Because you aren't checking b+ while driving however there is one more possibly that lines up with some of your symptoms:

B+ bolt loose. Lift the cover over the aft side of the firewall and check if the bolt going through to b+ is loose. It's how I disconnect power when working on starter/alternator and 1-2x a year somebody on xo discovers their B+ bolt is loose


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Thank you for the info I will check that out and update you this week.Also I will check more closely for corrosion around B+ also.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Mine idles with a 12V cigarette Bluetooth adapter reading 13.8V at idle. Old and new alternator read the same. It's above 14 after starting for a short while. I prefer 13.3+V on any modern vehicle.

Idle not the problem. The voltage dip is usually worst when coming off throttle to coast to a stop. Any time I've had a weak alternator that's when I had the voltage dip.

Checked both boost cable fire wall side and engine side ,both are good and tight.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

I unlocked my cluster and read voltage directly from it here is my results.

Vehicle in park I get 13.3-13.7 v (850 RPMS)
Vehicle in drive 12.2v - 12.5 v (630 RPMS)
When I'm stopped fully at a light I get the low readings,when I take off I get the normal readings like when in park.
I reset my Code 5A reading and took the X for a drive and no code or the 3 orange lights as of now.
I am concerned my Alternator isn't put out enough voltage while in drive? Or is this normal?Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

You are right to be concerned. Your alternator is not putting out proper voltage at idle. I've never seen a working alternator drop below 13v at any RPM.


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I replaced it about 60000km ( 6 yrs ago) with a Bosch remanufactured 1.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Old-time alternators had to get up to a minimum set speed
 

Then you've never had a 10DN alternator (GM) with an external regulator. When I first got my old 327 Chevelle, it had that alternator, and when idling at 600-700 in drive, the battery would drain to under 12.5vdc consistently.

I would put it in neutral and rev it 'til the alternator would kick in, but that was my temporary solution. I moved up to a 105 amp one wire alternator, which worked fine until I got serious about drag-racing, went to a big-block 427, and used a 140 amp alternator (with deep-groove pulleys).

But, after continually throwing belts at 7200+ rpm (and disintegrating a rod at 7400 rpm when the limiter failed), I switched to a bigger/badder 427 with dual batteries and charging between rounds. No more alternator problems. P.S. that 14:1 compression BBC would rev all day to 7200, and still lives after 100's (1,000's?) of rounds (but now traded for my X5). Sniff!

Warranty on that bad boy?


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Only 2 yrs. I should have got it from FCP lol.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

I bought mine from O'Reilly. Lifetime warranty. Had to use the warranty to exchange it also

I'm from Canada not sure if we have lifetime warranties like that.Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Since there isn't much km's on this alternator, I'm thinking of just replacing the regulator.
What's your opinion on this ?

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I bought a Bosch refurbished. It lasted one drive. Died on the second. I went back to valeo. Odds are very very high that the VR is shot. In your shoes I would do what I did and swap from Bosch to valeo if you can get one for your engine. My engine was m54 I can't see your original post when composing on iPhone don't remember which engine

Thx for the input, I have the same engine M54Sent from my SM-G781W using Xoutpost.com mobile app