What's the best de-pin tool for BMW connectors?
 

The EWS module will be de-pinned once I know which wire is causing amp draw that shouldn't. I found a procedure for EWS module testing. I have an ebay multiple key ring pinning tools set. Would a pick or curved pick work better? If de-pin drops amp draw, the wire will be traced back to components. Seems only three may be culprits: GMIII, trans shift input, or starter. I doubt the ring antenna is a problem. It receives power from EWS.

they have these de-pinning key chain looking things that are pretty useful.

https://www.amazon.ca/Terminal-Remov...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

The pick method can be a pain in the ass trying to push/pull

My tool box has that kit. I'll have to evaluate if the EWS is an actual problem. Scanning shows no errors. I was able to synchronize a third non working key. One OEM and two aftermarket keys now function correctly. I'll de pin maybe 3 wires to see if the 800 mA draw goes away. After going through every menu option, three switches were active as pressed. If the GMIII thinks they are pressed, the signal may be going to the EWS module. Once I find which tool works for de pining wiring, a pic will be posted.

EWS has nothing to do with the key remote control and central locking.

The keys were initialized for testing. Having three keys is nice. Plus each one must pass the EWS key ring to start. Otherwise, it's crank and no start.

I'm looking to depin #2 in this diagram.
Double leaf connector, I think it's used in the fusebox.
Just in case anyone happens to know a tool
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_5822

I have 4 piece pick set, I usually use the straight point or the 90° one... careful tho!

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I'm thinking of getting something like this

https://a.co/d/7eMALAH

there is a small barb at the back of the block that you have to depress. chances are both sides have one, so you have to depress both at the same time while sliding wire/connector out of holder.