Troubleshooting the door lock actuator - which wire brins power?
 

I have to admit I am not great/patient with reading electrical diagrams...so if someone knows the quick answer, it would be greatly appreciated.

I am trying to figure out if I need a new actuator for the door lock on the passenger side. All the other locks function correctly, but that one stopped working. I disconnected the plug and try to see if I have power coming onto any of the wires. No luck.

Does someone know which one of these 8 or so wire is the one I should be testing for power?

Thank you in advance!

Christian

They don't work that way. They are computer controlled.

I'm sure there is a power lead you can usually tell from the size of the wires, but when they fail it's usually the motor inisde.

Almost always they fail intermittently at first and usually will lock but only unlock 4 of 5 tries for example.

What are your symptoms?

It's just stopped working all of sudden. I had the door panel removed for something else. I am also having an issue with the passenger window switch. The power mirror works intermittently. I have to jiggle the connector in that window switch to make it work. I believe the power lock also go through that module.

So if it's not the actuator, perhaps it could be the window switch module?

Last option is a broken wire, but I did not see anything wrong.

I think you answered your own question.

It's not the DLA it's the door switch.

The DLA goes though the door switch. The door switch has a design defect that it collects water when the window is open and corrodes the motherboard. I've done the repair a few times.

90% confidence swapping the door switch mechanism will resolve your problem.

Thanks - I opened the door switch tonight and did not see any corrosion. But maybe I'll start there anyway since that would probably solve my mirror issue.

Troubleshooting the door lock actuator - which wire brins power?
 

The corrosion usually is under the relays so it's not possible to see until it's horrible. However you said jiggling the connector makes a difference that means you may just have bad solder joints at the connector. If I was in your situation I would reflow basically the whole board

Thanks - I found a new one for $75, I think I'll start there!

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