Just bought a new sensor. I'll test and install it tomorrow sometime then give you an update.

Connected the new sensor; no difference. Not sure about the ground. On the exhaust side, the plug ground, with sensor removed and ignition on, there is continuity and zero resistance. However under identical conditions, the intake side plug ground, shows about 2.5 kilo ohms of resistance. The bypass wire didn't make a difference. If you watch the minute 8 of the attached, the connections are explained. So I'm at an impasse.
https://youtu.be/4AnSzKzyzh8

Repeated message- Deleted

The sensors are digital. "continuity" eg Ω likely to give very odd results and different depending on which polarity you measure.

Most of the sensors I've worked on measure mA not volts making it quit difficult to determine faults with Ω meter unfortunately.

I don't remember how the injectors are fired but it's more common turn not that 12v is a constant and the trigger is when DME pulls the signal down to ground. There is I believe a ground wire to actually run the power.

If no signal to the injectors and everything else was working before you worked on it, EWS is most often the culprit.

Thanks Andrew. Any way to do a test the EWS. The scan I did right after the crank no start event last week returned this: Electronic immobilizer 3 EWS Pass | No Fault.

EWS just stops cranking right?

Mine had a 500 mA through the F11 EWS circuit. I didn't want to mess with it. I did an EWS delete. New DME, module starter wire bypassed with a fuse, and hidden crank switch for $100.00.

No such luck here; That's how much they charge here just to say hi back to you!

How did you diagnose it in the first place?

My battery started going dead. A chase was on to find the amp draw. Two fuses showed voltage drop. Amp draw testing showed F11 drawing 500mA. F11 powers the EWS module. The EWS module has a lot wires. The two large EWS module wires are starter related. It was cheaper to order an EWS deleted DME than spend time trying replace related items. F60 was also found to draw 200mA. I'm still working on that amp draw. Since F60 powers rear door locks, hatch, and tailgate, I suspect the GMIII module is bad. I pull F60 when the X5 is parked for long periods of time. With F11 and F60 out, sleep amp draw is 11mA.

Try disconnecting the MAF if you haven't already. If that doesn't work then start fresh diagnosing as a no-start without trying to guess ahead what the problem is. Get yourself the Bentley manual as someone suggested. Work from the top down not the bottom up.

No I haven't done the MAF. Should have done it then. Do I spray quick start after disconnecting MAF?

I did purchase a what it turned out to be a useless manual under the guise of Bentley, called eManualonline. Do you think the one attached is authentic?

Thanks