Auto Locking doors
 

Now before you say search, I have and only one person mentioned something close to what I did. So,...

My X5 has always auto locked after a certain speed, which is irrelevant. I like this function and I am sed to it.
I have two keys, but only one seems to have battery power to operate remotely. I read the fix on the forums here and I put a new battery in but it still does not operate remote signals. It will start, unlock and lock ok as well as drive. My regular key is fully functional, all remote works fine.


I decided to see if maybe using the other key would put some life into it and used it for about five days, but had to manually lock and unlock the car each time I parked. I got tired of this and returned to using my remote keys. I am not sure, but I may have left the car unlocked from one key and locked it by remote from the other or it could have been locked and I locked it again by remote to be sure. I cannot remember as I have the attention span of a goldfish when it comes to menial daily tasks these days.


So now when I use my main key, I do not get the auto lock function and we still get these crazies washing your windscreens at the stoplights and than wanting money. I cannot figure what I may have done that caused this issue, but I have read in posts that you shouldn't press the fob buttons too many times near the car or in quick succession and during my search I was sure it was "WPoll", who asked one of the members if he had used a different key when his auto lock feature was disengaged?


So, does anyone have any ideas what might be the issue as this function was working 100% on the fully re,ote operating key, but stopped working after I used the key without remote function?

Have you tried to reinitialize the keys? If everything works with one key, it's probably a sync issue. Mine has three keys. Two are locksmith made. One of those started to act up. Not unlocking the doors. After a reinitialization, all the keys work properly.

Thank you for the reply, as youare talking to a BMW noobon the learning curve, re iniialise the key is not in my dusty ol brainbox yet.



How would I accomplish this BMW trickery, if you don't mnd pasing on the secrets?


Thank you, Jeff

Not sure it's whats causing your issue, but have to resync the keys after you change the battery


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ4BVuTL9fI

The following works for me, with my USA 3.0i.
Some hints:
key number 1, etc. (why would that matter?) - the number (order in which you do the programming) determines how some of the other memory things are done - e.g., seat adjustment memory. Maybe other settings such as door locking are also remembered separately by key #1, etc. (guess on that one). And that is the only reason for the bolded warning at the end, "Always initialize the keys in the same order."

The KL-R key position is what I consider the ACC, or accessory position, in between OFF and ON.

Attachment 82379

The point here is... only one key has a working remote function. There doesn't seem to be any point in initialising the one key that already works. :rolleyes:

It does sound like the key memory function has a role to play in this and I DID find this line of info.: -

2.1 Key Memory - Central locking system Automatic lock after pulling away

• active
• not active

The vehicle is automatically locked when it pulls away. It is still possible to open it from the inside. This function is effective when the doors are opened using the remote control.

So it seems the auto-lock function is only active if the car was unlocked using the remote (not manually).

This document covers what the various memory functions cover: -

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Key_Memory_System.pdf

Yes, automatic locking is one of the functions of Car & Key memory. When the vehicle is unlocked with that remote the settings are done accordingly. So for example seat memory settings and auto locking are done. So for the functions to work the remote has to be initialised with body module. But it still is a strange one if the previous key still has the sync with body module and remote locking is working normally but the individual key functions are lost. It could be that the coding options have somehow been erased and gone to factory settings. If this is the case it can be coded again with NCS.

Ok, that might get the other key working. Thank you for that.


Jeff

Thanks Wayne, that list is handy. All the answers are great, but none really explain how I can get back the auto lock after moving off.

The reset of the other key now makes sense after changing the battery. No wonder it still doesn't work. :rofl:


I just cannot figure out how I had auto-lock one minute then used the other key, returned back to my working remote and auto-lock is now not working?

Is it worth me getting software and a OBDII to USB cable, just so I can access these functions.

As I do not have the original radio, I cannot make changes to the clock on the dash either, can this also be set up using one of these software people talk about when connected to a laptop?


Jeff

T everyone else, I thank you for your input, with all of you helping this forum is a great place. Cheers:guinness:

Cannot really explain, sometimes i lock/unlock the car with the plastic key when going to the beach, but then when start driving the doors still auto lock each time.

I don't think so... Pretty sure the only way to access the OBC functions are:

• Factory MID (one from a salvage yard, plugged into the truck connector, will work).
  
• Factory NAV. (too hard to retro-fit!).
  
• Android head-unit with the iBus app and Resler I-Bus interface.

If anyone knows of another way, speak up now. ;)

Mate, you are talking a strange language to me here :dunno:


We can skip number two, I don't like to do hard anymore,it makes my head hurt more than usual :rolleyes:


Number three sounds like a thing I could work with if I knew WTF you were talking about :rofl:.

My Android unit does use a bus interface as it works the steering wheel controls in that respect. It is an XTrons brand that is commonly used in BMW as a replacement.
So my friend from a little further south, please enlighten me about these things of which you speak?


Cheers mate, Jeff

I followed this and I now have the key working great. Here was me thinking that it was just totally FUBAR, but no...resync and good as gold.


Thank you :yourock:

OK, it's really quite simple... ;)

What you called a "radio" was actually a "Multi-Function Information Display" (aka MID) - which is a display unit with some buttons. It has no audio in it - the radio itself is either in the CD Player above the MID (in the case of Business or Professional CD systems) or in the boot/trunk (commonly in the USA).

But no matter, since you already have an Andoid head unit - the Xtrons. There is a CANbus adapter included with this unit so the steering wheel controls work.

The "I-Bus" unit I'm referring to is another after-market solution. First is an app for your Android Head Unit that replaces all the old MID "Board Computer" (BC) functions you now lack. This app is call the I-Bus app: -

https://www.ibus-app.de/index_en.html

Secondly, to allow the I-Bus app to communicate with the various systems in the car (mainly the dash or cluster) you also need an i-bus connection, via a USB device called a Resler i-bus interface: -

Resler IBUS Interface

You can get it all from one supplier: -

https://shop.ibus-app.de/en/shop/?p=1

Since you already have the Android HU, it's worth adding the I-Bus app and interface and then you will have full acccess to all the car's BC functions (and more). :thumbup:

Thx Wayne,



Looked it all up, completely understand what you are saying now and this idea looks like the ducks guts as far as solving the problems on the dash readout and for other little adjustments, that is one sweet unit.


Now, after reading the whole data sheet I find I have one problem. I hve a PX3 version and they will not guarantee that it works with the Unit...bloody hell. So now I need to think about a new head unit and these only seem to work with Xtrons PB and PQ series and a brand I have not seen advertised.


Now I am considering a new head unit, really do not need the cd/dvd player, the screen angle is hopeless in sunshine and the wifi connection is a POS. The update wil be a larger screen at a more upright angle with both 3g and 4g capability. I can check with Ibus people about suitability before I buy it.


So thank you, great find and I have saved the links in my BMW folder.

Glad you got it sorted. Probably my first successful helping post here!

Hi Wayne, I would really like to do something about getting some diagnostic software to use on my X5. I know you use a certain flavour of sorts :popcorn: and I think from memory you connect through a laptop. That would be perfect for me as I have a spare one sitting around doing the proverbial 5/8ths of FA. It is an Intel I7 with 8gb ram and 1Tb hdd, Win10 and all USB 3 slots. I have no idea what the software requirements are, but this should meet the needs I would hope.


Can you tell me what you know and what you use please?


Kind regards, Jeff

Hey Jeff,

I use INPA for most of what I do - it covers the basics really well and only once or twice in my seven plus years of ownership have I needed somethng else.

I use an old IBM ThinkPad with Windpows XP (but I understand that Windows 7/10 etc. is also supported).

I use this OBD adapter: -

http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...d/KK_USB_1.jpg

http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=22

This setup covers the standard BMW tools (INPA, NCSExpert, etc.) - not sure if it works with ISTA P/ISTA D, due to the lack of D-CAN but it should (since the e53 doesn't support D-CAN anyway).

I also use this laptop and adapter for DIS v44- DIS uses the same EDIABAS comms interface (in the DIS VM I use anyway). DIS was a mission to get running and is fussy to use but it does do a few things not possible in INPA (like reseting the oil wear adaptations on the VTG - transfer case).

On another Windows XP laptop I use BMW Scanner (PA Soft 1.4) - which uses a different OBD adapter: -

https://blog.uobdii.com/wp-content/u...-scanner-1.jpg

I use this on it's own laptop (actually a Windows XP VM on a Macbook!) since it's interface driver clashes badly with the FTDI driver for the K-Line adapter above - they won't co-exist on the same laptop (without swapping drivers in and out).

I use PA Soft for simple programming tasks that don't warrant getting NCSEpert (and NCSDummy) out for. But I don't use it much...

I'm guessing that by now your noodle is well baked, so I'll shut up - except to say maybe start with PA Soft - it's easy to get set up, does most of the simple programming tasks (safely!) and will report most diagnostic/error codes.

Good luck!

You're not wrong there mate :iagree:. It is a good starting point and good advice with pictures and links. Just a point of curiosity, what cable is used on the first adapter image? That would be the one KK for the INPA software?



They always help. I will start down this track first and ease my tired brain into it first LoL.


Thank you so much for the cross channel brotherhood, despite my countries poor attitude of late.

I'm glad we people have more sense than the immoral pollies we let run us!


Jeff

Any USB-A to USB-B cable will work. One of these: -

https://images.officeworks.com.au/ap...A5OTcwODkwMg__

https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/...cable-cou2pc02

Absolutely - the X5 brotherhood has no borders! :D