Dashcam wiring troubles
 

Someone has broken my electric window for the second time in 6 months now, so I've installed a security camera last week. This week the dashcam was up for installation, I figured the best +12v to tap into would be the light that shows a subtle orange light next to the P (park) on the shifter.

I've wired everything up behind the liners, along with soldering in a 12v to 5v adapter. Everything was going perfect.

Now it seems like the power doesn't seem to stop, so the camera just keeps running. The orange light used to turn off after ~5 minutes of having the car parked and locked. Seems as if now this just keeps going...

P.S. while working on this, I started up the car while working on it and suddenly got a "Niveauregeling inaktiv" message in the dash (rideheight management inactive). It never showed up before and it didn't show up again afterwards. Any idea how this was caused?

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The power to the LED on the shifter is likely supplied by the circuit that is designed only to power the LED and no extra load like a dash cam. You need to find a different power source.

Use the power from the passenger footwell cigarette lighter.

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As it turns out, the dashcam does turn off after 15 minutes. That's fine
Would this really matter if the power source gives a proper 12+v output with a normal thick wire?

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I reckon the passenger footwell area would be better, but from my testing (a month ago) this +12v was always live. The normal power socket in the cigarette lighter is also always live (tested with a voltmeter).



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True that it's always live, but select auto shut off on the camera or adjust the sensitivity of the "hit while parked" feature and since you can use a usb adapter it allows for easy unplugging if needed...[emoji106]

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Use the garage door opener wires. My DVR camera runs off those any time the key is on.

glovebox flashlight charger is switched-power, or you can use a timer
 

I needed a switched power source for the aftermarket fan I installed, replacing the mechanical fan that broke, but struggled to find any underhood, but finally did inside...from another thread: The flashlight charging port was great, though I had to feed the wiring behind and under the console along the firewall (I used a 2-foot section of PEX pipe to snake the wires thru). As I was unsure of how my fan would perform, in two situations:

• 1) by not shutting off the fan when the key was on (but before the fan could fully cool the radiator, to avoid heat retention, during short shopping hops in the summer) using the switched power, or
• 2) if the thermostatic switch might draw the battery down below 12v, if I switched the power feed back to "always on power" (the underhood battery posts),

I added a timer to the circuit that would limit the battery drain, so there'd be plenty left to start the truck.
Attachment 82774 Power Magic Pro BlackVue Vehicle Battery Discharge Prevention for Parking Mode


also from another threadI tested the device by leaving the key on, fan still running, and it shut it off after awhile, before the specified minimum battery voltage was reached. I never tried leaving it on to the specified time limit, as the themostatic switch shut the fan down long before then (and, I could've then switched the power circuit entirely to the always-on power, but never did, but perhaps in the future I will).

The flashlight socket in the glove compartment is switched power. This is what I use to power my dashcam via a cigarette lighter adapter that BMW used to sell (not sure if it's still available).

In case it helps anyone, I just happened to come across my notes on this, from when I installed a dashcam in my 2001 USA E53 several years ago.

Basically, I got 12V power from up by the map lights. Went through a standard 12V-to-USB adapter, and then the mini-USB cord from there to the dash cam (Aukey DR02), through the gap between the front of the headliner and the windshield. The power source I found is one that goes to sleep after 16 minutes - as I found out later, and am OK with.

But having installed the same cam in a different car, I wish I had put it on a constant 12V supply. That dash cam can work in motion activated mode so it basically goes to sleep and wakes up when anything moves (accelerometer - vibration detection). In my quiet neighborhood, it wakes up for every car that goes by and every person or dog that walks down the sidewalk. But does not run out the battery since it is so energy efficient.

Bench tests showed it taking about 100 mA (measured at 12V, so including any converter inefficiency), which is not insignificant, but is tolerable, especially with my solar panel maintainer helping out.

Anyway, here are my notes from back then on the wiring:

"Map lights are up there, but I think they turn off after 16 minutes. So measurements of voltage when key to OFF / ACC / ON may not hold after sleep mode. So I believe I thought I was getting constant 12V (un-switched, always on) but ended up getting switched (and still on for 16 minute after power off). Still OK.

8P connector to the board: 3rd wire from left is brown = ground. First is blue/red striped; GND when OFF, 12V when ON. Rightmost wire is red/yellow striped, connects to 3 rightmost pins, appeared to be constant 12V, but I now think it goes to GND after sleep.

I connected to the brown GND wire and the rightmost red/yellow striped.

I have power to the dashcam when car is ACC or ON, and then for 16 minutes after car is OFF, when it goes to sleep. Confirmed by the green slow blinking LED on the dashcam - goes dark 16 minutes after turning car OFF."

BTW - my orange LED by the gear selector stays on 24/7 regardless of sleep mode. Behavior of that light has been reported to be inconsistent enough that I would not rely on what others say about their car being conclusive for your car.

Thanks a lot everyone, this all really helps. I hope to find some time inbetween work to spend some extra time on this soon, eventually I need to get the rear camera wired up as well. If anything comes up that is important to note, I'll leave another comment!