X5 e53: can unlock with central lock button but not with remote
 

I have 2003 X5 E53, and I can not lock/unlock ANY of doors with remote.
In fact none of the remote buttons work (not even the trunk button) funny thing is this happened a couple months ago and it started working again magically for a couple weeks and now it has been not working for good again.

But I can lock-unlock everything with the Central Lock Button inside the car (and I can hear the luck actuator motors).

One theory is maybe the remote battery is dead (the remote is 6 years old) but what makes me think it is NOT the remote is the fault codes:

“Authofix Scanner” shows two relevant fault codes:

- “5A Central-locking driver driver’s door, interrupted”
- “5A Central-locking driver passenger’s door, interrupted”



Another experiment I did is, I tried to Re-Pair the remote key (turning ignition switch 3 times and then holding unlock button while pressing lock button 3 times) and when I do that I hear a VERY VERY VERY small Tick under the glove box.
(In past when I paired a remote it would lock-unlock the doors after, but this time it didn’t do that)

So I have a feeling it might not be remote battery….
Could it be a Fuse? I checked one of the Fuses under glovebox and it didn’t seem broken. What are the relevant fuses in this case?


Another thing I have tried is, I put my remote key on a tooth brush wireless charger overnight (some people claim that charges your battery)

What do you experts think ?

The remotes are bad for cracked connections on the buttons. Is your 6 year old remote a BMW one? A knock off remote will probably have a crappy battery. It's always nice to have 2 working remotes for times when one quits.

yeah I bought it from BMW original 6 years ago.

But why I have a Fault Codes on the Scanner ? If it is a remote battery problem
And the Error Codes look like something indicating the Fuse ? Since it starts with “5A” maybe some fuse 5Amper needs to be replaced but I dont know which one

Yes. the codes would suggest there might be more going on. The fuse boxes are labelled or you could just quickly check all the fuses. You should really have a wiring diagram if you go any further.

I been trying to figure out what is going on, I wonder if experts here have any idea?

My own analysis says:
- Can’t be the lock actuators because I can use the Central Lock Button and it locks/locks inside the car.
- Can’t be just remote battery because (I hear a Tick when I re-pair it) and also there is relevant scanner code.


The question is, what that Code is really telling us?

You thought it might be the remote battery or a fuse so maybe check that.
There might not be a magic answer and you will have to start checking things. The system might have locked the remote out for some reason, maybe anti-theft got triggered? Maybe disconnecting the battery and reconnecting will reset something. I would maybe check to see what the actual BMW description of the codes are.

Those codes may be old ones and caused by body module P-bus communication with front doors (rear door locks are actuated directly by body module). Have you tried re-syncing the remote?

I did the re-pairing, by putting ignition in position 2 (5) times and then hold the unlock button and then clicking lock button 3 times. (Nothing happened except a Very very very gentle Click I hear under the Glovebox ( I think that is coming from the GM module) but it wont do anything else. And problem continues.

is my theory right that Since I can unlock using the central console button then my Lock Actuators are fine?

How can I figure out if my GM module is good or not?

2 Things, your "re pairing" procedure differs from your first post to your last. Look at the details there. Also, 5A doesn't refer to the fuse, it is a BMW specific code. The toothbrush charging is an old wives tale, does not work.

The "pairing" procedures you typed are both incorrect. That is not the way to reinitialize the remote keys to the GM. See instructions below.


The interior Central Lock button communicates directly to the GM by way of the communication bus...just like manually using the key blade in the door's exterior lock cylinder. Using the remote key's buttons...the data travels over an RF (radio frequency) to the aerial embedded in the rear window...then to a receiver/amp in the C pillar...then over the car's BUS system to the GM. That's why the central locking button can work but the remotes fail to lock/unlock the car. Their data takes different pathways to the GM. :)



Ignition positions:

• Off
• KL R (position 1)
• KL 15 (position 2)
• KL 50 (starting position)
• KL 30 (position key returns to after starting)

Here are some MUST DOs or TIPS to follow:

• all doors must be CLOSED
• all doors must be UNLOCKED
• All remotes MUST be initialized in the same session
• KL R = ignition position 1
• only insert the 1st remote into the ignition...any other remotes will need to start on STEP 3 (as mentioned in STEP 6)

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...ote%20Keys.jpg

sounds like a bad remote. Have you tried testing it with a tester?

https://www.amazon.com/WOYO-Control-.../dp/B01LQ4I9LU

sent it to scott johnson to be repaired if it is faulty

Thank you Qsilver7 For the response, does that mean my GM module is healthy ? Since the central lock button works fine ?

btw the instruction you sent about re-pairing the key is same as what I did (except I did a bit additional) I turned the key in position 1 a few times and then off.

I am gonna try again this time I am gonna ensure all the doors are “Unlocked” first.

How can I use this product ? And once I buy it how do I know if my key is defective

Update: i unpluged the battery for a few minutes . But that didn’t change anything.

Could this be a gm module issue?
If yes what are symptoms or a gm issue

Debugging would be much easier if you had more than one key. I know the new BMW diamond keys cost $$ but ...

could you borrow a diamond key from someone and try to program it? If you were out here in CA, I'd gladly let you borrow one of mine.

Have you considered buying a new (non-BMW) or used (genuine BMW) key fob on eBay? You are not likely to get the EWS (immobilizer) portion to work, but the keyless entry should be programmable. For around $15 you can get a used genuine BMW key that should be programmable. If you find that can be programmed, you will have found that your key fob has a problem. If you find the eBay key cannot be programmed for keyless entry, you will need to decide whether the problem is with that eBay key or your car. Not a perfect test, but might be helpful.

Having bought 3x used genuine diamond keys off eBay when I first got my E53, and later done some surgery on them to replace batteries in two of them (postings on here if you search on my username), I'll say that they are amazingly well built. Looked like new when opened up. The batteries should last up to 20 years, so yours at 6 should be fine, but maybe it is not being charged. There is a coil surrounding the ignition cylinder which provides an RF field to charge the key's battery. Maybe something is wrong there ???

A problem I once had on my car (2001 3.0i) was an electrical problem with a replacement driver's door lock actuator. Something with that component was causing (I think, whatever I wrote back in the day is accurate, this is from memory) the keyless entry to not work at all; the central locking button would work on the front doors and kind of work on the rear doors, as if they were weak, with failing actuators. I even used my Foxwell to actuate all the door lock actuators repeatedly for testing, and the rears were weak and worked about half the time. Then when I swapped back in my original driver's DLA (which was fine except that the cable bracket was cracked - but had no electrical problems), everything worked perfectly, including those rear door lock actuators.

My basic shock and conclusion was that the whole system is surprisingly fragile with a fault in one place causing symptoms in other parts. Everything is perfectly solid since I fixed that cable bracket and put the original DLA back in - has been for years now.

Luckily when I had that problem, I had an original diamond key and 3x programmed eBay diamond keys (with blades cut off to make them fobs) to confirm it was not a key problem.

So for you - I'd be cautious about drawing any firm conclusions about the health of the central locking system unless everything works perfectly.

Thank u for the response, where is dla and coil? Is it in steering wheel? Did u have to open it up

did you purchase the remote frequency tester?

My remote will lock all the doors, but only unlocks the front ones. Same with central lock button, I can hear the rear doors clicking, but not apparently the actuators aren't strong enough to unlock.

OP, you might possibly have the same issue as I did on my 03 4.6is (same symptoms) and I've also spend a lot of time trying to solve the problem which is quite rare it seems:

In my case it was broken wire in the upper trunk lid in the section where there is rubber boot protecting bunch of wires and over time by opening / closing the lid, mine broke.
I repaired the wire and voila, everything was fine.
I think I posted about this few years back and will try to find the post with more info.

Here you go, post #36:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-issue)/page2

update I did buy the Woyo Tester, and I confirm my BMW key does not make it show any number.

But for my garage opener when I press a button it shows a random number (the number changes each time I press it, is that normal?)

and I have to say the Woyo Tester just randomly shows numbers even when I dont press anything. but when I have the garage door opnner click next to it, it changes same time as I click so I know it works.


so now that I know the problem is the remote, what should I do ? is there a link to follow to replace the battery ?

another update,
I was able to get the Lock Button emmit a signal (on a flaky manner) and (like if I long-press 3-4 times) and it shows "314.8" one or two times of it.

however the open and trunk buttons do not send anything at all.

X5 e53: can unlock with central lock button but not with remote
 

Sounds like classic button switches broken situation. Order a new key from the online dealer and save like $60.

I nursed broken keys back to function a few times before replacing the key (only to total the car using a deer months later). Was a very happy time with properly working key though!

It's really *never the battery*. Find my thread on key/battery. I show how to poke pins through the key to measure battery voltage. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...80a3c6bfc2.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee8d67b5b5.jpg
Actually I found the pictures. Red is positive.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ed0bfe3d8e.jpg
While charging at 20 mA the voltage climbed to 3.6v ish but not charging was close to 3 and dipped appreciably when a button was pressed.

If no voltages dip when pressing a button, the switch is not working or a solder joint has failed. It also makes impossible to sync with the car and will lose remote functions.

where is that online place to order keys? on BMW website it says to call a number

An alternative, if you're not in a hurry, is to order a cut key from Aliexpress. Probably more than one option, I used this one:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800045851419.html

About $15 cut, make sure your pictures are clear and be prepared to use a wire brush to smooth out the rough edges. Mine was hard to insert before doing that and adding some lubricant. The BMW logo for the center button came inside the keys I ordered.

If you're concerned about someone in China having a picture of your key, have a friend order the key to a different address for you so it's not tied to yours.

Then you need the AK90 programmer and a PC to program the EWS module, which must be removed from the X5. Several videos on YouTube about this procedure.

About $20 for the programmer.

So $35 for the first key and $15 for any subsequent ones. Probably best to do two at once at that price, since removing the EWS module and doing the programming will take some time.

ok I have a bad news :(
I changed the battery, using this https://www.ebay.com/itm/183640986098
and I repaired the key, but now I can not even start the engine with it anymore (it wont open the doors either)

what can I do to be able to start the car again?

any link for the programmer ?

also with the new battery the Lock Button emits a Frequency to my tester, but unlock and trunk buttons do not emit any frequency.

I have an odd question, I have an Old BMW e46 Key (that has not been charged for 10 years) but if I put the battery in to that one, can I pair that one with my e53 ? and can I attach the Physical metal key from my e53 to the board from E46 that had been programmed to a different car in the past ? (or is that impossible)

can someone explain to me, why it wont start the car after changing the battery?
I have a dumb key (without buttons) and that one starts the car, how come the dumb key without battery or anything starts the car? but the one with new battery it turns but it wont start

interesting update:

I replaced the old BMW e46 Key with new battery, and quite interestingly This one ALSO emmits signal only for Lock Button. (using Woyo tester that was recommended in this thread)


is possible that the Tester only able to detect signal from Lock button ?
this old key belongs to a car that I had many years ago (that got totaled) but at that time I remember the keys were working fine. so I put new battery in it. but the tester only shows it recieves signal on Lock Button.


Another interesting finding is, I tried to Pair it with my car, and pairing did not do anything. and also it did not start the car (I started the car with Dumb key) and then it let me start the car with e46 board couple times then it did not allow me to star the car with the E46 board key.

so I am thinking ....maybe my keys are Fine ? and the problem is something in my car?


has anyone else Tested bmw keys with woyo testers? do they actually detect signal for unlock buttons too ?

Sounds like something is wrong with your car. The key shouldn't even need the battery in it to start the car. The battery is only for the lock/unlock/trunk commands.

But my dumb key (the one without any buttons starts it fine) it only happened after I replaced the key battery before that i could start fine with the defected key


I know even old honda civic cars have some sort of of chipset encoding that a normal duplicate key wont work (i learned from locksmith in home depot) so maybe the chipset for my key got reset aftwr battery change??

Do we know it pairing is needed after battery’s change?

Chances are that you have damaged the PCB (or some components) while changing the battery and this has killed the EWS function. :(

And you would not be the first to have this issue... :rolleyes:

Have a read of this post by Qsilver7: -

https://xoutpost.com/1119011-post3.html

your testing method is flawed. you are testing an unknown quality key and expecting for all functions to work and thus doubting the test results.

the battery in the remote is only for the the locking/unlocking/tail gate features only. the toroidal coil/key ring on the steering column will supply power to the transponder/coil on the remote to authorize starting.

you have most likely damaged the coil on the remote. a simple check with a multimeter would confirm this.

your best bet is to leave the windows down, park the car outside with the key in the ignition and hopefully someone will come along and steal this car from you. this way you can confirm the key works or not.

Yes, pretty much all modern cars for 20+ years (to my knowledge) have a passive chip in the key which is scanned when inserted into the ignition cylinder. It does not require a battery for this chip to work because it is a passive device. That chip is totally separate from the battery in your key and will work even if the battery is dead.

It sounds like you've checked to verify that the key is broadcasting the "unlock" command with this tester you have (never used one of these but it sounds like you know what you're doing). Next, do you have a Foxwell or BMW Scanner or something which you can use to find out what the car thinks about the key you are using? These tools will tell you which key is inserted and whether it is authorized. If it starts with certain keys but not others, it may have suffered some kind of error (or been reprogrammed by something you've accidentally done) which is preventing your key from starting the car. But you can be sure that this fault is not related to the battery in the key.

Wpoll's suggestion is definitely something to look into, however I have no familiarity with this fault, so I can't be of any help in that direction.

To answer your last question, pairing may be necessary to get the key lock/unlock functions working after a battery change, but shouldn't be necessary to get the car to start with that key.

ok final update:
I did order a new key here, and everything works perfect now.

and the tester does show frequency for all the buttons, so it seems like my old key problem was not battery but one of the switches were defective