Three questions about mirror microswitch, keyless entry & secondary airpump
 

Hi guys, back with some questions. I've pulled the old 4.6is back in the garage for some maintenance. Most of it is now done, going to be replacing the flexdisks tomorrow and she'll be ready to go.

1. For some reason there's been some vandalism in my area lately where they pushed over my motorcycle and kicked off some car mirrors, including mine. Luckily it "just" bent backward, so it still works. However, the microswitch has been bent and partly broken causing the folding mirrors to auto-unfold. Now I've taken it apart and bent back the metal part, but the plastic to which it latches has been broken. I can't seem to order the microswitch separately, so I'm afraid I have to play around with some two-component glue. Any ideas what else I can try? I've attached a photo of its current sad state.

1.b. The mirror is also floppy ever since the mirror has been damaged. It has some wiggle room, causing it to move freely (for 1-2cm) when I'm taking a corner. What can I do about this?

2. Last week both my remote keys stopped working to remotely open the car. Today i reprogrammed one of them (holding unlock while pressing lock button three times) and this has fixed the issue. My question is, how or why did this happen? It was totally random when I went to do groceries. Worked when I drove off, didn't work when I tried to lock the car 5 minutes later.

3. My secondary air pump (to heat up the cats) makes a rather high-pitch whining noise, which I assume is a broken/raw bearing. I've unplugged the pump altogether which obviously gets rid of the noise. There seems to be no motornottprogram, but are there any downsides to disabling the pump altogether?

That's all for today, thanks for all the assistance!

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I've attached a photo of the old beaut pulling a Triumph TR6 a few weeks ago:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...87dfb9d937.jpg

I found a secondhand replacement pump from a 4.4 with OEM number 11721437910, does this fit a 4.6 model?

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Check it with RealOEM to make sure.

I have actually been driving for a few weeks with my secondary air pump disconnected for a few weeks, and the only issue is that it throws a check engine light (my car is a 3.0 though). When it is working, the DME injects extra fuel which is combusted in the exhaust manifold in order to heat up the cat quickly. The DME knows the secondary air isn't working, and doesn't inject that extra fuel (with the downside that the cat doesn't heat up as quickly). This is no big deal and actually saves you a bit of gas, but if you have to get smogged it will not pass. (I broke the vacuum line that actuates the valve in the exhaust manifold, which is why mine isn't working.)

Ig the pump is noisy it could be that just the checkvalve is leaking.

Thanks for the replies. I found the secondhand pump for only 40 euro, and it matches my model according to RealOEM. I'll grab that and try to build it in somewhere next week [emoji1360]

Still looking for answers on the key and mirrors!

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The microswitches are very repairable. Either build up a knub or if I remember right I think I put a pin right through. I have not heard of both keys to stop working. Did the lock button inside the car still work?
Make sure you replace or at least check the air pump check valve or valves i guess with v8 when replacing the air pump.

My air pump made that noise. I replaced it. The bearings were shot. Tried three of them. The last one is a Hella. The first two failed ECM checks.

The microswitches are available. I have a part number someone posted. I plan to buy two. I'll check my spreadsheet for a link to them.

- Which valve do you mean exactly? Within the SAP itself?
- Yes, both keys at the exact same time. The lock button in the car was and is still working totally fine. I read a lot of people have this issue when their battery has been replaced; perhaps my battery very briefly lost contact causing the keys to reset? I didn't notice anything like this and my battery is 100% healthy, just a guess.
- Putting a pin through actually sounds like a great idea. I was thinking of playing around with some 2 component glue, but it has to be VERY exact in order not to lock the metal piece in place. I think drilling a very small hole and putting a pin in would be better

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ECM as in you got a check engine light?

I'd love a partnumber if you can find it!

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There should be a check valve to stop exhaust from getting back to the air pump, that is usually what starts to fail and takes out the air pump. Mine was noisy but went back to normal (took a while) after replacing the check valve, but I'm talking 3.0L.