N62 4.8is- Engine REBUILD after Valvetronic/Vanos issues/codes
 

Hi guys,

I've been watching lots of youtube videos on the N62 motor after buying my E53 4.8is and I came across Timm's BMW Repairs and Information channel where he talks about various issues with the N62 motor.

I am pretty annoyed that I may have issues after I spent $500 getting a BMW dealer on the other coast here in Australia to do a pre purchase inspection as I live on the East coast and had limited time to fly over and organise.

After finding the owner who spent around $8,000 in repairs a couple of years ago and having a chat over the phone, he tells me they tried to sort out the valvetronic issue which resulted in a rough cold idle and misfires even after going back to the mechanic to try and resolve. He tells me their fix was to unplug it!

So after hearing this I start looking through youtube videos while I wait for my car to arrive (3-4 weeks to be shipped from west coast to East).

I thought it might be a simple fix such as PCV valves etc or the owner I bought it off (who bought it off the guy who spent good money on repairs) had fixed it but I also wanted to do my own maintenance so I after a lot of research on Diagnostic computers I settled upon the new Launch X431 CRP919X OBD2 Scanner as it appeared to do a lot and the reviews were raving about how GREAT a scanner it is etc (I sort of feel conned now).

Anyway, the car finally arrived and I ran a diagnostic scan and this is what I found.

There are 4 issues for Power system：
1.DME: Camshaft Control, Exhaust, Bank 2 - Output Stage
2.DME: Function, Camshaft Control, Inlet, Bank 2
3.DME: Variable Intake System - Temperature Warning Threshold
4.DME: Variable Intake System - Plausibility

There are 1 issues for Chassis system：
1.EHC: CAN Bus

There are 1 issues for Safety and Security system：

1.DSC: Steering-Angle Sensor, Supply

There are 3 issues for Vehicle body system：
1.SM/LSM: Steering Column, Radial: Short Circuit
2.SZM: Seat Heating, Seat Cushion, Right, Open Circuit
3.IKE: Electronic Braking-Force Distribution

There are 2 issues for Infotainment system：

1.RAD: Fault In Aerial Power Supply
2.Fault DSP_2

More in Depth here

RAD (Radio)
DTC Qty (1)

02 RAD: Fault In Aerial Power Supply

EHC (Electronic Ride-Height Control)
DTC Qty (1)

32 EHC: CAN Bus

DSP (Digital Sound Processor)
DTC Qty (1)

02 Fault DSP_2

IC (Instrument Cluster - INSTR)
DTC Qty (1)

BD IKE: Electronic Braking-Force Distribution

And now for the quite concerning things;

ECM (Engine Control Module - DME/DDE)
DTC Qty (4)

27BE DME: Camshaft Control, Exhaust, Bank 2 - Output Stage
2732 DME: Function, Camshaft Control, Inlet, Bank 2
2821 DME: Variable Intake System - Temperature Warning Threshold
2820 DME: Variable Intake System - Plausibility


After watching a youtube Video of Timm going through how to buy a good N62 I noticed his cold start and mine were quite different which is why I have now recorded my start to compare.

Timms



Mine



So I really want to fix my possible valvetronic issue as my main priority. I have done an oil change and replaced all the spark plugs. The oil was pretty dark but the old filter was pretty good and there isn't any sludge or build up anywhere in the system I can see, in fact the internals looks very clean just like Timms.

So now I'm in contact with the BMW dealership who did the inspection and having a conversation about how to resolve this.

In case I don't have any luck I want to have a crack at solving this myself, with the help of you all (thank you!).

Here is the last big invoice for the car.

Cheers and thanks!

https://i.vgy.me/i3dOCd.jpg

there is no such thing as a good N62 motor. also i do not need any valvetronic faults stored. first fix cam faults, the disa motor fault can be ignored for now
if the valve cover was just removed, check the correct installation of the cam sensors. sometimes the connector can be swapped

Thanks,

How do I check the sensors, what I mean is which wires are they and how do I know if they are correct or not?

Appreciate your help.

Is there an N62 engine PDF or full parts diagram I can reference?

Ta

Edit: How did my start sound to you?

There's a whole bunch of power codes in there that suggest that the battery died or got very low. When I have a sea of codes, I generally clear them and see what comes back after a drive. There's a good chance you'll have a lot less of them to deal with. BMWs throw all kind of errors when the voltage gets too low.

Edit: Also, charge the battery and confirm that the alternator is outputting ~13.5v or higher.

I genuinely would not do any other diagnostic work until you've done that.

Thanks Nick,

I cleared the codes but the Vanos codes come back (as do some others).

ECM (Engine Control Module - DME/DDE)
DTC Qty (4)

27BE DME: Camshaft Control, Exhaust, Bank 2 - Output Stage
2732 DME: Function, Camshaft Control, Inlet, Bank 2
2821 DME: Variable Intake System - Temperature Warning Threshold
2820 DME: Variable Intake System - Plausibility

I'll pop the battery on charge, clear codes again then see what remains.

How did the start sound to you?

I just checked the battery which read 12.62V. I've popped the charger on and will clear codes and see what comes back.

I'm not confident this will solve the problems but worth a try.

I put my battery on charge, ran diagnostics, cleared all faults, went for a drive, codes returned

I'm not going to pretend that I'm an N62 expert, but a bunch of camshaft control codes would have me looking at the vanos solenoids next. Pull them out, run brake clean through them. See if you can cycle them. S50B32 and S62 solenoids can be cycled with a 9V battery. I don't know if that applies to the N62.

Cheers I'll do when I have the time.

I'm still wondering if the start up sounds normal though as nobody has commented on that so far lol

Probably because engine recordings vary so widely that about all we can really say is that the engine started and doesn't sound like it's about to blow a rod through the side.

It's now off to BMW to resolve.

Quick update,

BMW have ordered 2 new Vanos Solenoids so we'll see if that solves the problem.

Hopefully

I also have an N62 X5 and firstly can tell you that I’ve always had the steering angle sensor and braking force codes, they seem to be fairly common and have no impact on my motor.

Secondly I have an NT510 scanner but nothing is better than INPA/ISTA and an OBD/USB cable, will also only set you back about $20.

I did rebuild on my engine about 3 years ago and at the time also replaced Vanos solenoids, I figured if I was replacing everything else I might as well and a few YT vids and guides had said it does help with a rough idle/cold engine idle etc. This may help but you also, may have an issue with your camshaft position sensor, I remember the connectors on these being really easy to snap when replacing rocker cover. They are located at the back of the head near the bulkhead the part number is 12147518628 if you’re looking for some diagrams then this is a great resource https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/search/...is/ECE/11_3821

The other thing to possibly check is that the VANOS control unit is In good order, this is in the control box under the bonnet near the windshield, the modules in here including the ICM can get weathered and damaged, I had this with my IC module. The other things that a lot of Indy BMW techs will tell you is that the OE Vanos solenoids are actually quite poor quality and you should replace with something other than the BMW brand ones, Pierburg often comes up as a recommended brand. Hope you get it resolved, once you do the best advice I can also give is to get an EVC, I got one from SAAS and it’s just a different beast without the throttle input lag!

Your vehicle sounds perfectly fine during start up, for the video.
The idle is not the best, but start up is fine.


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Test test test NOT guess guess guess
Idle vacuum fluctuating (SP)?
EGR vacuum pots clean and operational?
Smoke tested entire intake system for leaks?
Cleaned the throttle body plate and replaced the mounting gasket?
Cleaned & Replaced the cam sensors seals?
Removed and replaced all the plugs with known good NGK plugs?

Recommendations:

There are three plugs recommended for the 4.8is from NGK

OE NGK ZFR6FH-11, Stock number 4294. Iridium 0.8 center electrode with a platinum ground electrode plug. Factory gap of 0.044 inches

Iridium IX NGK ZFR6FIX, Stock number 6441 Iridium 0.6 center electrode Tip (copper core) with a cut back and tapered platinum ground electrode plug. Factory gap of 0.044 inches.

The big difference between the OE plug and the IX is the additional engineering and trimming steps to provide better anti-fouling, easier cold starts, better tip in acceleration, and the shells are coated with anti-corrosive and anti–seizing materials.
The recommendation is always go with the plug that will provide the best performance over the widest range of driving. In our applications I would go with the NGK Iridium IX plugs every time. Will the smaller center electrode wear faster? Yes, in a lab. You will get 60K out of them easy.

Thanks for the last post.

A quick update, BMW have replaced both valvetronic servos which did nothing. The PCV valves i've checked and both are perfect. I've put new spark plugs in as well.

BMW have now gone deeper into the engine and tell me the timing is out due stretched timing chain. They say this is the root cause of bank 2 vanos problems. Sound right to you guys?

Can anyone shed some light on the timing chain theory?

cold start issuse there was TSB about it due to the uneven wear of the intermediate levers was certan year and build dates. yep N62 can be really love and hate have the 4.4i in one . with IKE it can be the YAW sesnor can be isssue but common for that fault i get it with mine i coded my out well the brake ass still all works. usally the n62 chains good but can be allways few hearn that have . i look at inpa in the motor setting allow you to view the vanos system details . if brisbane give rx automotive looks after mine e53 n62 or have talk to him

Let the games begin! Parts and labour already fast approaching Aus $10,000.

Should I spend another $1100 and get the valve stem seals done at the same time?:dunno:

https://i.vgy.me/IIlvPq.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/ElzzQa.jpg

Looks naked up there now :yikes:

https://i.vgy.me/EOrtWu.jpg

The engines leaves a pretty big hole when it's not there :confused:

https://i.vgy.me/lRVyWe.jpg

And the root cause of bank 2 Vanos problems......Timing chain. The inlet and outlet cams should allow the tool to be flush with the head when in time, as you can see it's well out!

https://i.vgy.me/qSFUWA.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/iNEsQ6.jpg


It's a pretty big lump of metal when you see it out of the car :wow:

https://i.vgy.me/IZs6Dl.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/vKmVgl.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/QunEmh.jpg

It's pretty clean inside though, probably the cleanest N62 the mechanic has seen so that's good news at least.

https://i.vgy.me/SyKdPu.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/vtWssR.jpg

Better get this thing fixed now. Waiting on parts though.....typical!

https://i.vgy.me/OdnAWw.jpg

That doesn't look like it's out by a lot, I hope the new chain helps.

It's out a heap. The specs say 0.6mm or something but this is 10mm.

Thanks, new chain and guides should fix it.

Lots of expenses in the new gaskets and seals needed for reassembly unfortunately though.

N62 4.8is- Engine REBUILD after Valvetronic/Vanos issues/codes
 

Have them inspected. If they need replacement, now is definitely the time! You’ll save quite a bit with the motor already out.


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

I'm not sure you can actually inspect the valve seals without probably removing them?

In that case you may as well just replace?

There has to be a way to see if they have hardened.


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

I've just had both front driveshafts and CV joints rebuilt to new specs for AU $360 which I think is pretty decent.

That should fix the slight vibration while driving at the front end

All parts now arrived. I picked up a few gaskets etc from FCPEuro on my last US trip so should be back together early next week.

It will be interesting to see if the new chain meets the 0.6mm spec (which I think is the intention of that spec. )

Next time you do a US trip you should definitely let all the fellow Aussies here know so we can put an order in!! Mateship at its finest


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Any progress on this timing chain thing ?

Hopefully first start today after rebuild.

Well engine back together and at cold start I am having misfire issues. It seems the oil pressure is leaking out of the BMW VANOS Camshaft Sprockets and takes time to build up pressure.

Once the engine is warm and oil pressure restored to the camshaft sprockets the VANOS timing is working as it should be and confirmed through engine diagnostics.

I asked the workshop what needs to be done to fix this and they said new BMW VANOS Camshaft Sprockets.

I've now ordered 2 new BMW VANOS Camshaft Sprockets (intake and exhaust). Genuine BMW units are flapping expensive, FCPeuro has them for US $619 each (here in Australia over $2000 for both).

Screw that.

So I found an OEM manufacturer called Aisin in Japan (25% owned by Toyota) who make them and found them online at https://spareto.com/

Wow SUPER impressed by Spareto.com!

Parts in stock, good prices (I paid only Aus $615 for the parts) and shipping
EXTREMELY fast and great prices. Shipping was Aus $58 to have the parts expressed shipped via DHL to Australia.

I also ordered a new set of wiper blades and purchased Valeo Compact Wiper Blade Set C6055 which cost Aus $32.60 while here is Aus these are Aus $62.25

IMPRESSIVE!

So from ordering online to having the parts at home took only 5 days.

I suggest trying Spareto.com for parts in the future.

So I can drive my car currently and it operates properly once warm, I just need to allow oil pressure to build up so the timing can work properly.

Back into the shop soon for the new VANOS Camshaft Sprockets.

So a quick update........

I drove over 1000km after the rebuild and had the engine start to misfire occasionally. It would lose power and then come good again.

The next day I took my other half to work a total 2.5km and had the engine lose complete power so I pulled over to the side of the road. I attempted restarts and the engine fired and died again.

The car was towed to the workshop where they said I had a misfire on cylinders 6 and 8 and needed to change the plugs and new coils to determine the issue (although they said they swapped coils and the problem carried over). They also thought it could be bad fuel so drained some out of the tank and it didn't quite look right to them.

So now they've finally changed both Actuator, eccentric shaft (variable valve lift) exhaust and inlet and it still wouldn't run.

The workshop is now claiming EVERY spark plug is bad (even the 2 new ones purchased) and have changed all 8 of them for new ones even though the old ones were only about 1800km old (I put brand new ones in). I am calling BS on this as there is no way 10 bad spark plugs (Denso Iridium TT Twin Tip Spark Plug IK20TT).

So then it fired and wouldn't run.

So now they say bad fuel (was a full tank so over $200 worth) and want to drain it. They also are now saying that the fuel may have damaged the injectors so might need 8 new ones.

What the hell? Really?

I'm beginning to think they have no idea what's wrong and are just throwing parts at it in hope.

What should I do?

Sounds like you definitely need to find a new shop. Iridium spark plugs really only go bad if they are physically damaged or burnt out, and burning out in 1800kms is not likely.

Oh man, sorry for your predicament after spending all that $. What does a diagnostic scan show now?

They can't get it to run long enough to do a scan.....

The shop has been great so far but this just doesn't seem right......

Edit: Is it possible that bad fuel can damage injectors also? I think that's also a load of BS personally.

Bad fuel can potentially clog injectors but you would have had to get some really nasty garbage in there. It's possible with the condition of some of the road houses in the middle of nowhere but if the car has spent its entire life in population centers then the probability decreases greatly. I had a project car sit for like 4 years with fuel in the tank, I started it and was able to drive it without much drama to the gas station. Bad fuel really shows its bad when you're asking a lot of it. At low revs or idling it should be able to maintain well enough. Honestly sounds more like a bad Cam/Crank position sensor, failing vanos (which isn't a normal occurrence in the N62), or possibly the MAF. You can easily test if it's the MAF, unplug it and try to start it. If the problem goes away or greatly decrease strength it's the MAF. I just had mine fail (on an M62) and it was fine until one day it wasn't. Drove the X to work all week, got home on Friday and parked it. Went to move it I to the driveway for some unrelated work on Saturday morning and it wouldn't stay running, hunt idle, etc. Pulled the MAF and the rear cover on the sensing unit had come unglued (sealant bead cracked due to age). New MAF in and all problems are gone. Also any sensor circuit malfunction would appear immediately when you put power to it. Not all codes throw a CEL, have to read them with a decent scanner or INPA.

Thanks Nolimite39.

I just got a call from the shop. They took the fuel tank out, drained all the fuel, new fuel, cleaned injectors and found some very fine metal shavings in them indicating possible pump wear. Considering whether a new fuel pump is required.

All running fine now and all Vanos codes gone so I may have finally had a win!

They are going to drive it a couple of days before I can have it back.

I'll prob swap out the spark plugs they put in though......

That just doesn't sound right. If the fuel pump failed they should have been able to tell immediately by reading fuel pressure which should be a part of normal diagnostic procedure. Also if it failed previously how is it back to good order now? The metal shavings shouldn't be making it through the fuel filter so they couldn't have clogged the injectors. Sounds to me like something wasn't connected or was plugged in incorrectly and they "fixed it" during reassembly. I'd still be asking questions. I don't know anything about your shop and they may be great, I am just very skeptical, especially because so many bmw "mechanics" rely solely on what the car's computer tells them without ever actually performing normal diagnostic. Either way, I hope that's the end of your troubles and you get to enjoy your X.

Just thought about something else. I belive the N62 has dual vanos, if so are they easy to swap connectors on? That will wreak all sorts of havoc. Similar to accidentally swapping the left vanos and vent solenoid connector on an M62.

Yes, it does. Swapping them and also the cam sensors would cause all manner of havoc - unexplainable misfires, poor idling, etc. Happened to me after doing the valve stem seals.

I actually think they were saying that the fuel pump may be about to fail, it didn't stop working and suddenly start working again.

Good point on the shavings making it past the fuel filter, I'll raise that with them.

The shop is a BMW specialist shop full of ex BMW mechanics.

Honestly I think they've done a great job so far, this current issue was a curly one and appears to be bad fuel.

I have no issues recommending the shop.

+1

Also is possible to either park (for lack of a better term) the Vanos for removal or adjust out of position via Foxwell, etc causing insanely difficult to undo problems without the engine running correctly...

Don't ask how I know. [emoji28]

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Car is all good now. Fuel pump replaced and no more Vanos codes!

About time but now the car is running beautifully.

I'm VERY happy!

Wow, congratulations! What a journey! So it was fuel pump all along??

For the break down on the side of the road yea but I also took 3 20 litre drums of fuel home just in case it was also related.

I think I might make my number plate VANOS after all the dramas lol

New personalised plates to reflect all the dramas I had with my car when I bought it :gun::rofl:

https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/51/be/JaOGMwey_t.jpg https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/02/ad/LACjfDbl_t.jpg