Need to change rear wheel bearing, but...
 

A picture is worth how many words? Need to get this off to R&R the wheel bearing. Ideas?

:wtf:

Have you tried any tools like rotating wire brush to see what reveals out there? At this point it looks like some heavy grinding is needed and the splines can be so rusted that you need to remove the whole shoulder axle with drive shaft first.

Holy moly! :yikes: Do you live in the sea?

Getting the nut will be hard part. A sliding hammer can be used. The entire hub will come off though. A jaw claw may not work unless it's a very big one.

Ha! Actually, Calgary AB. 3300' elevation and dry af here. Car is local too, and otherwise rust-free. But they do salt the roads.

Tried chipping at it with a cold chisel and hammer and it's all pretty solid. Those flakes on the OD of the hub are rock solid too.


I do have a replacement hub and bearing, so I'm prepared to sacrifice the entire thing. Maybe cut it 180 degrees apart with an angle grinder and split it.

True, except there's no nut left, just the flange against the hub face and whatever is bonded/oxidized to the CV shaft. I got a new hub and bearing as a set from Rock Auto. The only upside is the wheel bearing bolts to the suspension upright rather than a press fit.


I was going to try drilling alongside the CV shaft notch and see if I could split it with a cold chisel, but...

This project may have to wait until nicer weather so I can have some outdoor swinging room. Right now there's a foot of snow on the ground and 4" of ice on the driveway. Garage is full of motorcycles and my daily driver 535xi - and I hate scraping frost off windows in the morning.

You can try to cut the nut with dremel on opposite sides not going all the way to the threads and then use impact hammer (or chisel) on the groove to split the nut. Then you see if there's any hope trying to separate hub and drive shaft without cutting the hub and drive shaft into pieces.

Because I have a new hub, I'm willing to cut through the hub as I delve down to the nut. Hoping the CV splines aren't equally crusty. Otherwise I'll have to get a gas welder with a blue-tipped wrench over to play with it.

Oooooo that's NASTY!

Good luck with that! :popcorn:

Time for some HCl acid! :bmw:

I understand that you have a new hub but it could be difficult to cut the hub without damaging the drive shaft too.

I think that your chances of saving the CV shaft are pretty close to zero. I probably would just start cutting.

If you really want to try to save it, lots of heat.

Fellow Canadian here and I have a very similar looking situation I've been putting off.

https://i.imgur.com/cwNRmWD.jpg

We're on our second unscheduled ice storm in less than a week so until the crap weather blows over I'll be listening to the soothing sounds of a grinding bearing

Ahh, yes.

The soothing sounds of Bearing White singing "Can't get enough of your rub baby" [emoji38]

I don't have to deal with any deep rust, but over here driving thru water usually means there's corn in it....

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lol @ Bearing White, Gold Jerry, Gold!

Mine might be a little bit more Bearing Manilow, nowhere near as deep sounding.

so ok...I'll take the bait...corn in the water???

Be interesting to see who fixes theirs first. Last night mine decided it wouldn't crank, so maybe it also needs an ignition switch. Nary a click from it. The torture never stops (Zappa).

If you have Harbor Freight, I'd get an air needler and buzz at it for a while to get anything loose out of there. An air chisel with a narrow chisel might be useful as well. Do you have a sand blaster? Oxyacetylene torches?

We don't have HF here but something similar called Princess Auto.

Personally I do have a small hand held sand blaster I was thinking on using.

A Dremel with a small wire brush to clean the threads up as much as possible was going to be my starting point and work my way up from there.

Unfortunately I don't have torches at my disposal but I will be using some MAPP gas to give some heat before attempting to remove the nut.

Just curious what side is your bearing bad on?

I'm on the passenger

I think your going to need to cut the whole hub and axle off from the back of the flange.... there is no room to get a grinder of any sort to get the nut off.
Once you do that you should be able to pound the axle out of the rest of it and then unbolt the bearing.

There is the reason I coat the area in antisieze, splines/nut/threads and lug nuts and rotor/hub face :P

Princess Auto apparently has the yellow bottles on sale right now. A coworker suggested that to get a bunch of heat on what's left of the nut. I'm likely going to angle-grinder through the hub lip and into the nut as a starting point. Then air chisel to split the nut. It's hard to see where the nut ends and the CV shaft begins - stay tuned.

Brown trout AKA turds, from overflowing septic tanks....

Nothing makes you cringe more than crawling under the car to fix something and finding shit paper stuck underneath the car....

I will off road to not drive through some "puddles" I come across here!!

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BWahahhahAHahahhaHAHA I would never have guessed that

I used a 12 ton Harbor Freight hydraulic gear puller last time I had a stuck hub like that. Don't bother with the 8 ton...It made pretty quick work out of a difficult looking situation. I also have used a hole saw with the center drill replaced with a dowel that fit in a newly drilled center hole to grind the nut to smithereens. Worked like magic on rear suspension bushings as well.