Car thinks its been stolen? Engine Failsafe Prog. How to unlock?
 

A friend at work was helping rewire a new dashcam yesterday, replacing an old speed camera detector that had a switched live off the OBD port.


As he was testing the cables, the dash lit up with "Trans. Failsafe Prog" and "Engine Failsafe Prog". I now can't start the car.



It feels like an immobiliser has kicked in, so how do I reset this? I'm thinking the car might have thought someone was trying to hotwire it, even though the key was in the ignition (but not turned on).



I've already tried disconnecting the negative terminal for 30 minutes, and also disconnecting the positive cable too and leaving that touching the negative cable for 10 minutes to 'reboot' everything, but no joy. I tried pushing the accelerator to the floor for 30 seconds too, but still nothing.


I have INPA but it's a bit flakey, I'm not sure the cable is good. I think I managed to read some codes, and save them, before I tried clearing the error memory, but I don't think it was completely successful as I was getting several IFH-0009 errors.


If I want my local dealer to check, they charge £198 just for the diagnostics but aren't taking bookings until the end of March. However, they may be able to check sooner if I get it recovered there and a gap comes up. I'd really like to sort this myself though (with someone's help from here)!

Switch live power through the OBDII port is a no no! Hopefully pins 6 and 14 are okay. Never stick anything in Pin 16. Pin 16 is live power all the time. I'm still new to network troubleshooting but I'm learning. Someone here will provide better information.


For a camera, get power from the overhead console. It's key powered. I have a post on it. My camera works great. For the rear, an empty rear seat heating relay location works great.

Have you checked fuses F5 and F14?

That's good to know. I think this camera detector/GPS (an origin b2) was installed well over 10 years ago, and still powered on okay when I bought the car last year. The subscription for it ran out in 2012 though, and their website no longer exists. I had planned on just removing it, but when I found it was a switched live I thought that'd be perfect for the dashcam. OH how I wish I hadn't bothered! :bustingup


I'll look at using the overhead console at some point, thanks. Does your post cover installing a rear camera too?

I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to the E53 X5. Where are they, in the rear quarter panel near the sub, or do I need to remove the glovebox to find them?

Above glovebox. Remove two tabs and pull the cover down.

https://www.pss-autosoft.net/diagram...s/G_120186.png

Garage door opener power wiring for a camera

Rear camera wiring using the rear heated seat relay location.

So if the immobilizer is on you can put the unlock code through the head unit (if it's still factory)

Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk

I'm not being prompted for a code on the dash. Saying that, I did replace the whole front (Nav screen) unit a week or two ago with the same model off ebay, which didn't have blemishes over the screen. I noticed at the bottom of this screen TMC is in red, which I don't think it was on my other one. Unrelated?

Guys, IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bmw:



The suggestion of checking fuses 5 and 14 pointed me in the right direction, so cheers!



On the fuse board table, 5, 31 and 54 all relate to Engine Control.



5 was okay, but 31 was blown. 54 was okay. I fitted a replacement 5A fuse to slot 31 and the car fired up with no errors! It was a bit lumpy, so left it idling for a few minutes before I took it for a spin.


I'm very happy (although not as happy as if I'd fixed it sooner and saved £54 in taxis :p:).