Remote Locking not working
 

Hi all,

I have owned my X5 for about a month and the remote locking has never worked. I have just joined the forum today but have been reading it for the last month.

So locking wise everything works with the actual central locking either physically with the key or the locking button by the hazard switch but there is no response to any of the key presses.

I have tried every version of re-syncing I can find to no avail. I have swapped the GM3 (I think it's called) behind the glovebox. I have probed the amplifier in the rear hatch on pin 3 and the voltage changes when the key buttons are pressed.

Hoping someone can point me where to go next..

Thanks,

Steve

In my case and with the very same symptoms and after checking all the usual culprits, I discovered that I had broken wire under the rubber "snake" in the right rear upper corner (IIRC) when you open the trunk lid.
That wire leads to antena in rear window which is used by remote.

Post #35 here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-issue)/page2&

Do you have just one key?? If so, I'd get a another key.

The driver's door look key barrel and lock assembly is not very sturdy...Time and again when E53 owners start using the key in the door to manually lock/unlock the door, the barrel assembly breaks. You don't want that.

Any BMW key of a similar vintage will synch to lock/unlock your car. To see if you your key is a problem, find a used key or borrow one and see if you can synch it with your car's locking systems. Obviously a used key won't start your car.

Some people use one key to start the car and another used key to lock/unlock...if you do this, you need to figure out how to charge the used key.

Good advice!

An alternative is you can get a new cut key that uses a C2032 battery for less than $20 shipped from China and program it to the car for another ~$20 using an AK90+. Info here:


https://xoutpost.com/1226622-post26.html

Do you have a scanner to read codes? Some advance scanners can read key numbers. Keys are 1-10. If all 10 keys get used up, a module replacement is necessary.

Thanks all for your comments. I think I remember reading about the broken wire but had not checked it yet. I have just removed the rubber conduit and I cannot see any broken wires but of course they could be broken internally.
I do have permanent 12v at the amplifier though so that one is OK. The one that runs to the GM3 I am going to run a temporary wire between the two to rule that out, wont get a chance for a few days though.

I've recently noticed that I have to warning tone if I open the drivers door with the key in the ignition. Could this cause an issue with syncing the key?

To answer other replies, I have two remote keys.

I have scanned and only 3 or 4 keys have been registered.

Is the interior lighting coming on when you open the door?

Hi, yes interior lights work fine.

If I open the door with headlights on I get a warning message for that but not for key in ignition.

Have you checked to see if the key is sending a signal? Most chain auto parts stores have a way of doing that. These keys are infamous for batteries dying, especially after 20 yrs. Start with the simple things first

Hi, after reading a post about this issue I checked pin 3 on the antenna amplifier and this produces a voltage change on a key press. I am led to believe this means the key is producing a signal.
Thanks