Where is said valve? Is it located other than inside the fuel filter? Is it closer to the fuel tank, or something?

Right inside the fuel tank connected to the fuel pump...positioned as though its laying down horizontally.
Dark in there...going to need flash light.
Hopefully you ran the gas down.
Oh! Please note the valve is attached to the filter...resulting in replacing the filter .

Shhheeeet.. Just filled up.



Great info! I looked at everything else (I hope I did), and it never occurred to me to look and or confirm there were no other parts to replace inside the tank.

Well just ride with it until your almost dry. I dislike working in gas but some have done it at 1/4 tank.
Cheers!

Do the left and right assemblies go in together? Through the tank? Or separately then connected? With mine hitting 160k, I'm thinking about replacing the fuel pump. Shortly after a coolant refresh.

I thought you replaced the fuel filter? Does the check valve not come with it or is it purchased separately? I assumed that since you replaced the filter, the check valve came with it. Also, maybe I’m misreading the posts, and I have the older model of fuel filter, without a check valve, but it is definitely not in the tank, but rather under the long plastic guard running under the drivers side.

Sounds like it may be OBE, but you can check the vacuum on any of the lines running to vacuum driven components. Get a tester(Amazon, etc) which comes with a T fitting and some extra hose, then tap into the various lines as close to the end of their respective run as possible. The tool will tell you how much vacuum is being pulled on that particular line. Bentley should tell you how much should be present. Although usually it’s zero if a line has failed.

If your pump is original at 160k miles you are on borrowed time. Ours both failed at 133 ± 2. They are supposed to last 5000-6000 hours so 160000/6000=26.667 mph average.

The check valve is in the pump but the FPR on the filter also acts as a check valve so either failing will affect startup pressure.

You need to test pressure with a gauge on the rail. You can use an old school tire gauge but consider it disposable it will ruin the seals inside.

It should hold 30psi overnight. Also should be no wavering of psi at idle.

The FPR will obsfucate a weak pump for months or years. It's a lot of work to get pump outlet pressure at WOT so as pump slowly fails and output drops from ≈ 65 to 50 psi and the FPR hides the slow drop in psi over time.

When FPR or pump check valve fails, the hard start odds the main symptom

Hard/long crank is also a symptom of failing starter as they fail they take far more current but it should also crank slower.

Did I miss of you have i6 or v8?

Unrelated to pressure. Only outlet check valve on pump and FPR affect holding pressure and pump winding and age affect running pressure.

I6 will prime pump before crank. V8 with starting assist where it keeps cranking after you let go of key doesn't turn on the pump until you turn the key so it's more susceptible to problems with FPR: check valve failure.

That information I don't have or don't fully understand your question

At that age the siphon jet from left side will need refurbishing just needs a new o-ring and a fix find my detailed thread.

The right side has the electric pump which should be replaced by 140,000 miles unless you like getting towed.

There are are a couple hoses that go between the sides but are only attached to the left assembly. Right assembly is solo


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