E53 on board computer problems
 

Hi everyone,

I have a 2006 4.8is, with nav/dsp.
In the last week the dash has gone from miles to kilometres, but temperature is still in Celsius.
On the nav screen I am unable to set the date or time, or change the units. The car is stuck in metric!
The on board computer also doesn’t show range or consumption.
The BC button on the indicator also isn’t showing any info on cluster.

I have used the hidden functions to see that the BC button still works, but I am stumped for the rest!!
I did get another obc but the same issue was there.

Hoping someone here could steer me to a fix?

I am looking to get mileage back on the dash, along with consumption / range etc working on the on board computer.

I’ve uploaded a few pictures.

Once the car is asleep (eg. orange light by gearstick has gone out), have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few moments, or if easier the LCM?

Hello. I haven’t done anything with the LCM to be honest. The battery has been disconnected a few times recently but can certainly try that procedure- what exactly does it do?

I think both disconnecting the battery or the LCM resets the iBus. For me it's easier to get to the LCM as mines a RHD car, plus I've had an issue since getting the car so my LCM is always out so I can unplug it quickly.

If disconnecting the battery hasn't fixed it, then I doubt unplugging the LCM will either I'm afraid. Sorry!

What are you trying to do...?
I missed something some where's.

Sent from my TMAF035G using Tapatalk

I am trying to get the odometer to go back into miles and also have the obc display range, consumption etc.

The actual OBC is on the cluster. The screen is just a display and user interface. So are you able to choose option on the screen but they are still not showing correctly on the cluster? Also if you have verified that the stalk BC button works but nothing happens on the cluster there is something wrong with cluster itself. Have you tried reset on the cluster hidden menu?

The BC button works, as using the hidden menu I can see the button itself works.
However when pressing the BC button, nothing comes up on the cluster. I did previously have the BC button programmed, but now nothing shows at all when pressing it.

On the nav screen, it does not allow me to change the units (as per the pics)- it doesn’t let me select any other units of measurement. It is stuck in metric and will not change.

Where is the brain for this? If the screen is just a display, what gives it the information? What part of the car provides information for range, units, consumption etc?

Like I said the cluster is the brain.

What did you mean by OBC button programmed?

When you configure the BC button to display certain things on the cluster. That no longer does anything either.

When I had issues with the BC button, a used programmed GMIII body control module fixed it. The GMIII module monitors and controls so much stuff.

Ah so perhaps worth trying a replacement gm3 module.

Do you know if they need coding to the car?

Yes, it needs coding. I was chasing two parasitic draws. Plus, BC display, inside lighting, and F60 issues. All of them went away by replacing the GMIII module.

I got lost, too...sorry if you've already tried the suggestions below: :confused:



In regard to selecting miles/Fahrenheit vs kilometers/Celsius...have you done the procedure in the owners manual that changes these scales?


The procedure is similar to unlocking the cluster...they are so similar that many owners end up switching the scales when they attempt to unlock the cluster to check the hidden menu.

• press & hold trip odometer reset button
• turn key to position 1 (KL R)
• turn key back to OFF
• release odometer button

Next time you turn the ignitnion on...the scales for mileage and temp should have changed to the other scale.




http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...Fahrenheit.jpg


If you've disconnected the battery recently...then this could be why you've lost the BC programming. Have you tried reprogramming the OBC features you want to appear in the instrument cluster?



http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...%20Nav%201.jpg


http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...%20Nav%202.jpg

Thanks for the reply. I have done that procedure, but it only changes temperature not the mileage measurement.

I’m unable to reprogramme the BC button- holding it in just does nothing…🥲

I am very stumped…

Hi - I am also unable to reprogramme the display by holding the BC button down and my issue is when I attempt to start the car I get CODE---- displaying on the computer strip on the dash.
A mechanic with BMW software could not get the software to 'connect' to my cars system so no full diagnosis, with a 'LAUNCH brand' tablet scanner he was able to -re-initialise the imobiliser system but that changed nothing. turning the key does nothing (no click, no starter engaging just silence)
New battery installed now and still the same.
Does any of these issues sound familiar to you chaps
The car handbook tells me to utilise the MID unit on the centre console to input a code. neither my car nor a friends ever had a MID unit (different dash configuration)

current vehicle is:
2004 X5 E53 sport diesel 3.0L

What is the current dash configuration? Has the MID unit been removed and replaced with an aftermarket unit?

I think you will need either a MID or a factory NAV screen to access the CODE feature. The CODE feature is a 4-digit PIN code that diables the starting system (via the alarm module). It seems it can get enabled in error sometimes (power glitches etc.) and I'm not aware of a way to clear it without eother a MID unit or a factory NAV unit. I've read that you can bypass the CODE to start the car, using this method: -

Key position 0
Pull Fuse #43
Then start

Never tried it myself but at this point, it could be worth trying? You can re-insert the fuse once the car is running, to get teh dash working again, and you'll have to do this each time until you sort the code.

And BTW, it seems that it's common in case like this for the code to be the default - 2767 - but you are still going to need a method to enter the code. You can plug in a MID unit temporarliy to do this - check for one on eBay? :dunno:

in response to wpoll
 

Dash configuration is as new but aftermarket head/NAV unit, I bought a factory NAV unit but it has different connectors so cannot use that. Never had a MID unit in my X5.
What is the method to enter a CODE with a NAV unit only from factory? (handbook does not tell me)
I have been using the method you mention (pulling the fuse) but after replacing the battery the alarm goes off when I put back the fuse now so that's not an option
I am looking out for a MID unit but need to see connectors so I know it will be able to connect.

Thanks for this information

also have another way to start the car
Short the low tension terminal at the starter motor from the high tension and you can start with the key (but needs 2 people)

Sounds like your car probably shipped with a MID unit, and it was removed to fit the aftermarket unit. If the aftermarket unit is an Android unit, there may be some other options (iBus app and connections).

The MID unit uses a single 12-pin connector (black, I think): -

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/a38AA...x/s-l1600.webp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175794822768

Hopefully the MID cable is still there and hasn't been canalbiles to fit the aftermarket unit. It shouldn't have been, as the MID carries not audio signals, only data. All the audio connections would have been in the in-dash CD Player unit, which actually houses the radio and audio circuitry as well.

And yes, the CODE bypass that removes the fuse WILL sound the alarm... for a short period. Not ideal... sorry, should have warned you of that. :rolleyes:

There is a way to cancel the alarm, rather than waiting for it to shut off, but I'm guessing you are looking for a way to use the car, not simply get it to a more convenient location? In which case, the MID or iBus software etc. might be your best bet.

If you know anyone else locally with a MID-equiped E53, , you only need it for a few minutes. ;)

Been there, done that - when my ignition switch failed (start position only).

I ran a wire up from the low current terminal of the starter motor and to use the car, I would turn the ignition on, then open the bonnet (hood), short the wire to the +ve jumper terminal to engage the starter and start the engine. Worked a treat and only required one person. Used it like that for a few days until the new ignition switch turned up. :thumbup:

That's very useful information, I have the plug for that MID socket (mine is white) but didn't have a MID unit because the original NAV unit is same dimensions as my aftermarket one.
there are some similar X5's near me maybe its time to don my nice voice and knock on a few doors, as you say its only needed for a few minutes.
My head unit is identical to original but has SD slots for input source and nav updates.
I have every connector still attached behind the unit (no damage at all)

concerned that the MID units I see on Ebay uk list for radio display when my NAV unit included radio display.

Do we know if its the BC button on a MID that allows CODE entry?

BTW thank you for all the comments/advice so far - great forum

All e53 have pretty much the same equipment "hole" in the dash but some shipped with a CD Player and MID combo, while others had a full NAV screen system. If you have a MID cable in there and your aftermarket stereo is wired to audio cables in the dash (no long extension to an audio unit in the boot/trunk), your car likely had a CD Player and MID from the factory.

https://www.dvdgpsnav.com/blog/wp-co...oem-radio.webp

The MID has a row of buttons and the display indicates what each button does in each mode - to enter the code, the buttons are numbered 0-9.

Here's an older thread discussing the same issue as you have. The missing images in one of my posts are these these: -

https://i.ibb.co/MDywCZTx/MID-Code-01.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/MjDfVzn/MID-Code-02.jpg

BTW, it seems that this mode is likely triggered when a someone disconnects the battery while the key is in the igntion.

Always make sure the key is on the workshop bench or in your pocket when disconnecting the battery!

Thanks again for the information, I have no choice but to acquire a MID unit and see if that will work, (ordered from company in Ireland will take one week)

I have the handbook that has the information as shown above but it says nothing about entering a code when you don't have a MID unit. (I got an original NAV unit from a former BMW mechanic who stated his did not have a MID unit from factory (same as mine) The asterisk in the MID section title denotes it is an option.

Had the BMW software been able to connect to my car that mechanic would have been able to enter the code or remove the immobilizer function (not a good idea) - but that was not possible.

btw the local BMW dealers (Halliwell Jones) quoted 6 weeks to book in a diagnostic check

Have you tried the RESET function on cluster hidden menu?

No I haven't as I do not know what that is or how to enable it.

Can you enlighten me?

incidentally I should have the MID unit some time tomorrow

Search for instructions how to enter cluster hidden menu. Then first unlock the locking with the sum of your VIN 5 last digits. Then scroll to last function which is RESET and activate it. The cluster should boot to default values.

Thank you, I will search now. nobody mentioned that to me - not even BMW mechanics

While I'm aware of the hidden menu (use it a lot) and the reset function (test 21), I've never seen or heard mention of using the reset to clear an immobiliser code situation - brilliant if it works!! :thumbup:

I don't know if the reset works in these code problems but it has resolved many other cases if cluster is doing strange things it's not supposed to do.

Absolutely worth a crack! :popcorn:

I think it should work as the code it's asking for is the last 5 digits anyway. [emoji2369]

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This immobiliser CODE is different thing compared to cluster hidden menu and its password. That CODE can be set if the owner so chooses but in these cases the cluster has activated the function on its own.

Eureka! you guys rock
 

I received the MID unit today from Ireland, plugged it in and saw the set up screen for time and date etc.
pressed the code button and entered '0000' as the battery had been replaced.

she roared to life and all seems good with the world again.

can't thank you all enough for the speedy responses and advice.
the MID unit will stay in the car incase this happens again because we still do not understand why the code requirement came up in the first place.
When I purchased the battery 2 years previously the guys fitting it told me that this model does not require inputting the code after battery swap.

time will tell if it happens in the future.

Hooray! Glad it's sorted. This is one reason why aftermarket stereos are not always the best idea... :rolleyes:

You can now also set the time and date on your dash! ;)

Re. the battery swap code thing - newer BMW's require a new battery to be "registered" and this is sometimes incorrectly called "coding". It has nothing to do with the issue you have just sorted - a 4-digit immobiliser code.

The X5 E53 does not require a new battery to be registered, but it does seem that pulling the battery with the in the ignition *may* cause the immobiliser code to be set. :dunno:

We had at no time removed or disconnected the battery but it was being charged in the car at the time of this issue occurring, I had (for the past 7 days) noticed the battery was losing power when starting and had connected my booster pack on three occasions in order to fire up the engine.

after that the engine would spin-up and fire throughout the day (I use my car for my work visiting three care homes) My mechanic was checking my brakes etc. then could not start the car hence the issue.
I still need to figure out what forced a code input to fix this. if I figure this out I will post on here my findings.

Again thank you all for your contributions to the thread.

Your starter may be old/dirty, causing a higher-than-normal starter current. Common issue with these cars - mine did this at about 250,000kms or so. The high starter current was killing the battery, as it was drawing around 400amps when starting (should be well under 300amps). Removing the starter motor (not easy!), then cleaning and servicing it, sorted the issue. Now it starts VERY quickly... :thumbup:

https://xoutpost.com/1241612-post16918.html