I may have spoken too soon
 

Hi again, whilst my last post was about Catch Can V EGR Bypass and thinking it was all the problems I was experiencing, I may have been quick in saying that.


After I wrote that I drove down to get some fuel, just as I was turning in to the Servo, the car started to do what I can only describe as "A learner trying to drive a manual for the first time", the old clutch jolt.


I got into the filling pump, put the car into neutral and the engine was smooth and it revved to 2500rpm without a miss. Thinking it was maybe a simple one off screw up, I fueled up and then started fine, checked again, rpm was great, smooth and without fault. Into Drive and idled to the exit ramp and waited for the traffic to clear.


Once I got a clear break I entered the roadway and drove off smoothly, but as I approached 40 km/h (25mph) it started this jolting again. Traffic was coming fast so I tried to get to the turn off quickly and for a second it responded and a huge cloud of smoke was blown out of the exhaust.


Then it was back to whiplash city. I turned onto the side street and pulled over, back into neutral, I tried revving the engine, this time to 3000 rpm and again the same results...Smooth and without fault. No smoke clouds or any other tell tale signs from the back. The exhaust smell was normal for a BMW diesel, clean and not that dirty old tractor smell.


Back in and into Drive once more, same thing effortless to 40 km/h then really hard whiplash. If I didn't know better I would say the engine was cutting out and back on again in a tenth of a second. Then the 4WD light came on in yellow.


I have replaced the transfer case gear once since I have had the car, and since I have put the staggered wheels on 9" front and 10" rear, I had noticed some odd occasions when it would click or clunk on corners. Usually I just made sure the tire pressures were all set and it would settle.
I am running the right size tyre's and I have even done rolling measurements to see that they are correct.


Maybe I should check the transmission fluid level first, where is that located. It is the ZF 6 speed.

Could this be a transmission issue?
Should I put the other 9" wheels on to see what happens then?


I am in the process of getting the ISTA+ 4.32.15 with bases 4.39.25 but to be honest, as I unpack the zip files not a lot makes sense to me. I have all the necessary connections and a dedicated laptop with heavy duty battery. So I hope to figure this out and use it as my diagnostics computer..


Up until the vacuum hose broke a week ago, the car has been running fine, now I have fixed it, it seems like it is playing find the fault with me.


Jeff

Did you try a smooth running test on a diagnostic box of your choice?
I had a similar experience and a piston left the chat :(
Hope it’s just a faulty injector or something cheap!

I'll probably come off sounding like a dumb ass here...:rofl:



Could you explain a little bit more what you mean in detail for me?


What I do not understand is the smooth running in Park or Neutral but then getting a 4WD warning light.


My days as an apprentice mechanical engineer are long past and thirty years in the Army hasn't helped either. Cars and trucks that came trough the workshop were still basic in 1972 :wow:


Cheers, Jeff

Ofcourse!
With the injectors it’s all dependent on the load applied to them. Low load low stress. Makes sense right? Once load is applied small defects can show. They can be intermittent or permanent.
But you’ll need to get some data out of the car. Cause it can be a broken diff or a simple speed sensor not working.
With the smooth running test you check for internal load balance. There you can see if an injector is dead or dying.
Physically you could also check the dreaded injector loom. The tend to fail over time. New one isn’t that expensive. I changed mine and it felt like I got 50 extra hp.

Well with that experience you can also maybe help me out in the future. Currently purchasing a HET and closed a contract on 15 snatch land rovers.

Hope the info helps a bit to get to a starting point

I did get one message on the scan tool stating that the number one injector was not connected, but now it reads ok. Even after another drive and failure, it still reads no faults. Injector cleaning is not that hard, but the reset of the electronics is a PITA.



You were correct in the fact that it did brake down more under load as I had to try to drive uphill and could barely make 20km/h. Once I had made it to the level ground and gently used the accelerator, I could drive up to 50km/h without problem, but if I tried hard it broke down and failed.


The wire harness sounds like a good start, I'll look at what I can get here.


Thanks for explaining the procedure to me.


Sincerely appreciated, Jeff



I honestly cannot think of a good reason for one land-rover let alone 15, unless 14 are spare parts. ;) HET, I may have seen something about them, but the brain is slow...:wow:



I had my fill of them in the Army for 30 years and the only ones that worked for us had the engines replaced with Isuzu diesel four cylinder motors.
We might as well have sat on the outside though as the damn things leaked like a sieve in the rain, heaters only worked in summer and windows, mirrors and seats could never be adjusted to suit your driving position.

Yeah it sounds like wiring that way. If you measure the resistance on them don’t forget to move and shake the cables. It’s also simple to take out and bench test.
Cleaning those piezo’s only works up to a degree. If the bypass rate becomes too high they’ll need replacement or refurbished

Snatch land rovers are a totally different animal. Only the body is shared and the frame rails and part of the axles. So they are actually good unlike the popular opinion that’s why I send them to certain parts of the war.
Oshkosh HET’s are epic machines to drive. And the 100 metric ton capacity I can’t find in any other truck. One HET can move 2 tanks if need be.

I think I will do as you did and just go out and get a new harness anyway.



If I was younger and not so broken ;) (bloody military life) I would be with you in testing things out, but you mentioned that after you replaced yours it was like you gained 50 HP. That is enough just to convince me it is worth trying. These in the car are hard, feel very brittle and are probably the original set.
With our temperatures here in the summer and the fact this car has been a towing vehicle, I figure it is just time to do it :D.


Did you get my PM by the way?


Thanks heaps, Jeff

Hey Jeff

Sounds like a solid plan. Especially if it’s still the original loom and you get these ghostlike symptoms.

No pm at all on my end….