N62 Foxwell Transmission Adaptions reset and solenoid+sleeve replacement notes
 

04 4.4i 09-2003 production, 44k original miles

Notes after completion:

Before I started I tried to find the Foxwell procedure for the adaptions. I didn't see anything with the details using an Internet search or on YouTube.

To reset adaptions on Foxwell 520 Pro: key position 2 (motor off): Load car by VIN, then Service / Drive / Transmission Control / Adjustment / Display and Adjust Adaption Values

I had to remove valve body a second time. The white slider to lock the sealing sleeve was stuck. Check it slides in and out easily before putting it back on the transmission!

If you buy a ZF solenoid set, it comes with a diagram showing the bolts to drop the valve body and a separate one to separate the electronics. Very useful! The middle picture is the appropriate one, not the one that says AWD.

AT bridge seal was different, flange/tab and notch need to be removed so that it would fit. I plan to provide a picture in a separate post. The flange/tab was removed with a workbench grinder and the notch with a mini hacksaw. Then the bridge seal was thoroughly cleaned in ATF to remove all the debris.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ug-24347588727

Maybe because mine was a very early production unit? FCP Euro doesn't have a distinct part for earlier models, at least that I found.

I used Valvoline MaxLife again. Fluid was pristine after four years (mechatronic sealing sleeve was leaking and was getting Trans Prog FailSafe mode in cold weather the first time).

I used side fill port again with MityVac 7201, only one hose. About 8.5 liters. Note that some service kits come with 7 liters. Dropping the valve body means more ATF will drain, especially if you let it drain for two days, like I did. Make sure you have enough! Some people say you have to use the bottom fill port. As I noted in a thread back in 2019, I measured the top of the bottom port and it is even, or within in a few mm of the side fill port. Side fill is much easier with the MityVac.

Used QuickJack. Much easier than first time on jack stands.

Some useful videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZbA-OqoPJQ

https://youtu.be/XeCx1YYbyaw

Nathan makes a few mistakes, and doesn't know which bolts to remove, but it is an 04 4.4i:

https://youtu.be/YeLFFkx94Jg

Full valve body service
https://youtu.be/W7DZbrvrI5k?t=771

The AT bridge seal - adapter plug I received from FCP Euro had two additions compared to the one that was on the transmission. I had to remove both of them to get the seal to seat properly. The tab was removed with a workbench grinder and the little notch on the vertical near side below the tab was removed with a mini hacksaw.

https://i.imgur.com/Q6r9J0B.png

I ran into the same issue when I replaced my bridge seal a couple of years ago. Seems like the part has been updated for some reason.

Same fix, although I used a sharp blade to slice the tabs off (which was hard work!).

Thanks for confirming and good to see you're around, Wayne!

My friend who helped me suggested the grinder and he liked the mini hacksaw I showed him. He was afraid with a blade that it would be easy to damage the bridge supports between the two seals.

Do you have picture of the original bridge seal (8-seal)? Just about to tackle the same task with new seals and solenoids.

Here's a comparison photo with the new one on top. EDIT: I think this photo is from after we removed the tab and indent. The little indent is pretty small but does get in the way of inserting the part snugly.

The bottom one looks bigger because it's closer the the camera. The other than the puzzling additions, they are the same size.

https://i.imgur.com/3CWIZJj.png

Update: (also posted this info another thread; putting it here for completeness)

My strategy was to keep the revs under 2k rpm for the break-in period. Now I'm enjoying ~19 mpg (US gallons) instead of under 16, lol

It took about three weeks of mixed driving, about 300 miles, to learn the new adaptions. Now it's shifting great and the problem I was having, revving high with no gear engagement on an uphill, was solved immediately.

Are you sure the other one is not for 6HP19/21 and the other one for 6HP26?

Not 100% sure. Mine is a Sept 2003 N62 4.4i build and I think the 6HP19/21 was only used on the 7 series at that point. Wayne said earlier in the thread that he had the same issue on his E53. Fcpeuro.com said it was the correct part for my vehicle.

I found this by searching for 6HP19/21 n62:

The 6HP19/21 is a 6-speed automatic transmission for BMWs. It was developed from the original 6HP26, but was downgraded for less demanding applications. The 6HP19 is rated at 400 newton-metres (295 lbf⋅ft) of torque.
The 6HP19/21 was installed in many cars and BMWs with different engines, including:
2006-2013 BMW 3 series (E9x)
2007-2012 BMW 1 series (E82)
2002-2008 BMW 7 series (E65, E66)
2009-2013 BMW 7 series (F01, F02)

The 6HP19/21 fits the following BMWs:
BMW E60/E63/E64 545/645 N62
BMW E53 X5 N62

Good post.... Many thanks

I've been looking into this (again!) since it bugs me and it seems that many suppliers indicate that the 6HP26 uses the part WITH the additional tabs: -

https://i.ibb.co/Wy3zRMg/Bridge-Seal.jpg

https://zftranspart.mypinnaclecart.c...product&id=178

:dunno:

Thanks for digging up that info, Wayne. Odd that they say the one with the tab will fit when it clearly doesn't.

Congrats on the 270k km milestone :thumbup:

It seems that BMW part number for this part is different before/after 9/2005. Most likely many suppliers only provide the newer version thinking it fits all 6HP26 models. If you have pre 9/2005 version get that seal from BMW.

Even dedicated ZF part suppliers give the reference for ZF 0501215718 seal for both BMW versions: older 24347588727 and newer 24347571211.

Good information, thanks. Hopefully, anyone here with a pre-9/2005 N62 who's replacing this part will see this thread!

I'm glad my friend was able to diagnose and fix the issue while we were repairing my transmission.

Took a couple orders to get the correct seals when I was ordering them as well from FCP. Don't remember if it was when I did the 6hp19 in the E61, the 6hp28 in the E70, or the 6hp26 in the E53. :D So many ZF trans vehicles currently in the driveway (5 :wow:).

Just to add to this thread (18 months later!), I just found this in some ZF documentation. :rolleyes:

https://i.ibb.co/8D7Pkkrk/Wrong-size.jpg

I wish I'd seen this earlier - but nothing I can do about it now (don't have the old seal anymore and no way am I opening up the trans to measure the "new" one!). :confused:

Interesting find, Wayne, thanks for posting. Other than removing the two unneeded (and interfering) additions on mine, it appeared identical to the original. No problems since the replacement :thumbup:

Yeah, same same. I double checked it at the time and I'm certain that the tabs were the only difference. I would not have put it in the transmission otherwise..

But a 1mm difference is very small...! ;)

I also stumbled across these two images on a BMW parts site today. The site listed TWO bridge seals for the ZF 6HP26, didn't mention any differences, although they referenced the two different part numbers that Clavurion mentioned earlier in this thread. But the two images made me chuckle...

The first bridge seal option image (the newer BMW # ...211): -

https://v1vehicleparts.co.nz/cdn/sho...71211_800x.jpg

And the second bridge seal option (the older BMW # ...727): -

https://v1vehicleparts.co.nz/cdn/sho...88727_800x.jpg

Looks somewhat familair...! :rofl:

Yup! I guess better to have the extra features for those that need them, but who knows if those two are different :dunno:

I'm staggered they sell a part that is so obviously "modified". :rolleyes:

FWIW, I think you can remove the rubber seal sections from the hard plastic sections and re-use the hard plastic section (with the new rubber seals)

But now I'm over-thinking this! :rofl:

That's a great idea.... we didn't think about that approach when we did mine. It was a pain to remove the two additions.