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Best Source For a New Rear Drive Shaft?
Hello,
I'm chasing a peculiar vibration that began after I did some work on my '03 4.4 last December. This work included changing the center support bearing and rear CV joint. It's a high frequency vibration that 'comes and goes' between 40 and 60mph. Before I condemn the drive shaft I'm going to have all the wheels checked for balance as I did a repair on one of the tires with a tire plug at the same time. I don't think it could be that, but wouldn't it be great if it was? If it is the rear drive shaft, which I think is the only thing it could be at that point, I'd like to buy a whole new shaft, but new OE shafts a very expensive ($1700) and, according to some sources are no longer available anyway. What's left seems to be shafts made by Powertrain Industries. Despite their claims they are U.S. made, all the critical parts such as yokes and rear CV joint are from China. Has anyone used one of these shafts? I can't find any reviews anywhere online. Thank you for your comments. |
When you changed the support bearing did you mark the halves so they went back in the same orientation? Where the CV-joint and support bearing BMW parts? Why not have the universal joint renewed and shaft balanced?
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https://apps.apple.com/app/id298840058
You this app or similar (one that samples sound and plots FFT). https://apps.apple.com/app/id448155923 Here's another. Either of those will pull out the frequency of the noise based on the vibration and instantly identify if the vibration is pre or post differential. 7.3 ft is the circumference of the tire. Convert from speed to RPM and compare to the frequency of the vibration. If it's 1x wheel RPM you're looking at bearing, tire balance etc. If it's 3x or 6x looking at CV joint, if 4.1 or 3.9x (depends if 3.0 or 4.4 motor), it's drive shaft related. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...651c7e3251.jpg https://apps.apple.com/app/id1089589547 The other app I use is this too measure the shake vs. the sound. Works better for the wheel side shake. The 3x had helped several people home in on CV axle as the shake. The speed you described is exactly where the control arms will cause a shake but usually while gentle braking. Coast at 50mph and gently brake. Stop and start soft braking until you get below 40. If that causes shake you can feel on the steering it's the front sideways control arms. Under the right load conditions it can cause the same shake. Theoretically the rear control arm similar but you should have inner edge tire wear on the rear at that point. The other test for front inward control arms is to cross over the crown of a road going ≈ 60-65 mph very gently holding steering with just thumb and index finger. (I usually do this test center lane of freeway). You can s-curve and stay in your lane. If the control arms are shot you'll feel 2-3 wobbles in the steering as it crosses over the "noon" position. |
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Thank you for your reply. Yes, I marked the two halves so that they would be reassembled correctly. The rear CV was an OE part, which I think is the only one available except...the aftermarket drive shafts are using some Chinese clone. I've not seen that sold separately. The u-joint is considered a non-replaceable part, and the only drive line shop in my area that works with these shafts doesn't mess with them. |
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Thank you for your suggestions. I downloaded the version of the first application for my Android phone, and will see what I can find out with it the next time I drive it. The best analogy I can give you on the sound/vibration frequency is that it's roughly the same as you would hear and feel driving over those 'rumble strips' they've been putting on the sides of roads in my area for a while now. If you don't have these where you are, the picture should let you guess what they might sound like driving over them at 40-50mph. |
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Also have rumble strips. That's a day vibration def suspect drive shaft not both spin the same speed.
Remote camera (go pro etc) is a good way to confirm a shaky drive shaft. (also off course FFT) |
If you do determine it's the shaft. I've used Driveline Services of Portland with good results for BMWs.
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Everything is connected and front and rear shafts spin the same speed. Giubo failure as well as csb are the most likely candidate.
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Partsgeek shows “new” rear driveshafts available for $511. Not cheap, but better than $1700. API brand.
I’m 90% sure it’s my rear driveshaft that is giving me a loud “ping” when I select drive and or reverse and the the drivetrain loads up, so I’ve been considering this piece. I can find a local shop to rebuild my driveshaft. https://www.partsgeek.com/5m9779x-bm...xoCTsgQAvD_BwE |
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