Pic diagnostics
 

The X5 was parked for 5 days. I received these pictures after it was moved. Since it was not turned on during that time, I assume it's coolant. At 162,000 miles, it's time. I have been topping it off during this hot summer. I figured the problem might be the 1.2 bar relief tank cap. Guess not. Being parked all the way over to the driveway edge, it's the left engine side. Today, I'll take a flashlight to look under the water pump. The pump was replaced before purchase. I've only replaced a few hoses and thermostat.

Any tips before starting the work? A box full of OEM parts is ready to go. Plus a a new CCV system. Should I put it up on ramps so parts are easier to reach? Or use wood planks to raise it a few inches?

Confirmed coolant leak. It's the lower radiator hose seal. I didn't see any along the block front plate. Ordered a few more replacement parts from FCP. Tear down begins today. I'm flushing out the green coolant the previous owner put in it. BMW blue coolant will go back in.

Progress pic. The intake is completely loose. Disconnecting the fuel line, knock sensor/temp sensor plugs and harness zip ties are left to completely pull out the intake. A little clean up will be done before replacing the pipes and hoses. One TB bolt was dropped. I'll have to look for it. One DISA valve screw stripped. :( New DISA valve bolts and other small parts were ordered. Hopefully FCP shipping is on time to put it back together by the end of this week. :bmw:

@161250 miles, the OEM pipes were failing. I'm surprised they didn't leak! New OEM pipes are installed.

Wow, why do you YouTubers reach down to the lower fuel hose connection? It's much easier to remove at the top! The fuel rail was not removed. The entire intake was cleaned. A brush and cleaner work good.

Is this a cold CCV system? It has foam on it. I left it on. The manifold upper return hose broke. I'll have to order another one.

The piece I didn't count on breaking was the transmission thermostat. It broke apart trying to remove it. A new one will be ordered. Once a new thermostat is installed, the system can be filled for testing. The oil cooler has new o-rings too. Any hose that was not included in a kit had new o-rings installed.

Yes, W/foam is the cold weather CCV. IIRC the other part of the cold weather package is a different dipstick tube.

Oh! Do I need to order a hot climate CCV? I'm going back today or tomorrow to clean off the engine. Plus, the other areas I have not been able to clean or pressure wash. I still need to remove the dipstick for a new o-ring. Since I have to order more from FCP, it will be 2-3 weeks before it's all back together.

Nice updates

Thanks

All the other emission pipes I broke have arrived. Plus, a replacement for a broken transmission thermostat. I'll put in as much water as possible and try a pressure test. A soapy spray bottle should help. The engine won't turn on until the intake is installed. Plus, I dropped a TB bolt I need to find. Otherwise, I need to find a matching bolt at a local bolt store. A little more engine cleaning before installing the intake. Another good afternoon should be enough to button it back up. I'll replace the shroud later. Pic coming of it.

Ok, after almost 3 weeks, I'm back to finish a coolant system refresh. It feels so long ago. I need some help! I can't remember where everything connects. I did a test fit of a few parts. One new intake hose drove me nuts. I couldn't see where it supposed to connect. Finally, after flipping over the intake, I realize the hose connects to a hidden intake port. Hidden between runners. Some one has been down deep in it. The dipstick bolt was not even bolted down. A new seal should stop the leak there. The dipstick hose to CCV is also new.

Here is some eye candy. I'll post on items I need help to ID.

Help me out. :(

Where do these two electrical connections go?
The long top one. Is it routed somewhere through the intake?

Is the middle hard pipe coming from down low the diff vent tube? It curves under the intake.

It was filled with distilled water. The water will test for big leaks. Plus dilute any green coolant left in it. It will be pumped out. Blue OEM coolant will go back in.

I'll have to remove the TB to install the lower manifold bracket 17mm nut.

Been a long time since i did that job... sounds like you dodged a bullet!! Good work for catching it in time and doing the job right (i.e. replacing everything!)


To answer your earlier question, if the cold weather CCV was working for you for so long (with no caked-up mayo) then buy another one of those. Even in Texas I would suggest the cold weather version.



Did you figure out where those connectors go yet? The three-pin one might be for the mass air meter, but I might be wrong. I can go look later if you haven't got them figured out.

Great job on this and the pics make this a nice read.

How did you go with the wires?

I think the 3 pin connector is the crank sensor which I think goes to the connector box octopussy. The short (front) one out of the injector harness is the vanos solenoid. The middle one is the intake air temp sensor.

The plastic hose (with the clip) gets clipped to the bottom of the evap solenoid.
there should also be a plastic hose with the same kind of clip (I think) that goes from the evap solenoid (clips) to the bottom of the intake.
The pics are a bit confusing because I think they are making the part you are focusing on much bigger then the rest. The evap solenoid looks the size of the vanos solenoid! ;)

Pictures work even better if you take some before hand! ;)

The bottom pic I think is the connector for the IAC motor.

80'stech,
I've reviewed several videos. No one make a reference to the long three prong connector. Every intake video does show it under the intake. Down low but no reference to where it's connected. One video for 1 second showed it to the octopus wiring harness. I took a video pic to check when I work on it tomorrow. The bottom one is likely the IAC connector. Those connections didn't come off until the intake was removed. It's why I missed putting tape on them and their locations. I should have all the info needed to put it back together. I'll do a little more clean up too. The delay now is a Bosch starter replacement.

Bdc101,
During the winter, it only had goo at the oil cap. Mostly for not being run long enough. Short city trips don't help. After this round of maintenance, I have no hesitation about driving far away from Austin. It's first voyage may be a 800+ mile round trip!

Thanks for y'all's help and replies!

Did you replace the CCV? If not, did you check all the vacuum lines? If you had mayo under your cap it is possible (not certain but possible) that you have a lot more in the vacuum lines.

Yes, the CCV, hoses, intake large hoses were all replaced. I'll split apart the old CCV for inspection. Goo was only seen on the oil cap during the winter. All the lines replaced looked goo free. Oily but clean. I'll use low air pressure to check lines.

Wow, sounds like you are golden then! I had mayo under the oil cap, but when I replaced the CCV I found many of the vacuum lines were full of mayo too. The vacuum distributor on top of the intake manifold was almost completely clogged. That was the year I bought the car, at about 13 years/95k miles.

The mysterious three prong long wire does to go the octopus. It's plugged in now. The other mysterious 6 pin end goes to the TB. All connectors are identified. The starter has been removed. The Bosch replacement shipped today. The dropped TB bolt was fished out with a magnet. It was on the skid plate foam. So the only piece missing is the expansion tank lower big clip. Luckily, I remembered a spare was in the parts tool bag. A replacement with a handle was ordered. Once the shroud and fan are on, the final big hose will go on for pressure testing. Upon passing, the intake will go on. It should be up and running next week!

For vehicles with Auxiliary heating S536A=No
05 Hose f engine inlet and water valve 64218381387
For vehicles with Auxiliary heating S536A=Yes
05 Hose f engine inlet and water valve 1 64218380126

From: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=64_1116

Which one of these do I need? Mine does have dual side temp HVAC.

Auxiliary heating usually means a hot box or webasto type auxiliary heating unit so you probably don't have that.

80stech,
Thanks for the reply. I assume the difference is hose length. I put one on order to get it here on time. I think I ordered the longer one. I can trim it to the fit heater valve. A new valve is available for installation. The hose is so soft, I doubt it would last a harsh summer or brutal winter.

Does water flow through it when not in use? If not, it would be better to flow water to keep it cooler.

The difference might be hose shape as well so hopefully the longer one is right. Looking at the diagram I would say that if there is only three hoses going to the heater valve then there can't be coolant flowing with the heater valves closed. I think if you search there is a really nice colour pic on how all that works if you want to make sure.

A VAICO V201703 was ordered. Looking at pictures, it seems to be several inches longer. The important part is connecting to the supply pipe. With short winters here, a bypass valve would keep water circulating. Pictures will be posted to ID differences.

A coolant system pressure check was done. First test was to 1 bar. The upper hose only two years old failed. The hose dripped under 1 bar of pressure. I thought it was at the o ring. A new o ring was installed. At 1 bar, it failed again. Using a mirror, the hose connection failed. The single clamp ring didn't hold. The lock adapter spun inside the hose. Luckily, I had another replacement. The new hose snapped in with good force. It passed a 15 min 1 bar test. No other leaks were found. Bentley says to test it, go to 1.5 bar. It should not drop more than 10% in 2 minutes. Pressure held at 1.5 bar for 3 minutes. Pressure was released and inspection was done. The test will need to be done again when a heater valve supply hose is installed. Blue coolant will go in with a new supply heater valve hose. Three gallons of distilled water diluted the previous green coolant.

Good work! :) Don't be shy with the pressure. Look for actual leaks or hoses swelling, not so much about percentages watching it drop.

Once the heater supply hose is replaced, I'll crank it up. Mine runs a 1.5 bar tank cap. The supply hose would probably bulge if I cranked it up more. The hose is so soft. A bypass valve is so tempting to install.

Has anyone rerouted the B+ wire during a starter replacement? I know it is fished through the 5/6 intake runners. Why not reroute it? Just curious. I'll be installing a replacement starter on Wed.

Finally rolled out the X5. The coolant system refresh is complete. It cranked up on the first try. The 4X4 light went out driving across the driveway. Emissions will take time to set. Only one code/warning appears: Check Coolant Level. It will take time to bleed out the air. Which sensor senses coolant level for the dash? Both lower hose and tank sensors are new. The connections are tight. Which one needs to be replaced or checked?

I need to move one vacuum hose. The small elbow connection is not on yet. I capped it for the time being. Can one someone confirm, the small elbow connection? It's the hose coming over the left fender near the brake booster. I assume it's the fuel tank vent.

The coolant temp seems really low for radiator output. It reached 90C but it took a while. It was cool yesterday. Is this the sensor causing the "Check Coolant Level" warning?

The coolant level sensor should be in the bottom of the expansion tank. I think they are a bit finicky though. AFAIK the face lifts (mine anyway) no longer used the sensor because I think they had too many customer complaints about the light coming on.

Isn't the sensor only on cars with the high cluster? Cars fitted with the low cluster had the low coolant sensor omitted? :dunno:

Yes, maybe it's a high/low cluster thing. I do have the low cluster, the sensor is still there but not connected (and I think the wiring is even there but taped back from the factory) and there is a low coolant icon but no bulb in the dash. I looked into hooking mine back up a long time ago when I first got the car but never did.
Anyway, it's the bottom of the level float stick that operates a magnetic switch in the sensor so hopefully that helps with figuring it out ;)

Great thanks for new information. I thought I was going to have to drain the tank to get it out. It's a blue replacement sensor. I have a black one to install. The old parts are still in a box. I have not thrown any of those parts until I'm satisfied. We drove it 10 miles back to my house. No brake issues. No other codes popped up. For tearing apart half the engine side equipment, I think only one code is amazing.

For the love of God!! Don't tempt fate saying things like that....[emoji28][emoji28][emoji28]

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Well, the wifey drove it home. She complained about rubber burning. New hoses need to break in. I added a lot of new wire loom. Lots of wiring needed new loom. I hate seeing exposed wires. I'll remove the air intake and do more degreasing. The previous power steering housing leaked badly. It still has oily residue left. I'll get all that cleaned up when a new coolant level sensor is installed.

Are the red floaty level thingies removable and interchangeable? I had two new tanks to install. I'll keep the other as a spare replacement.

Well, the new sensor is toast! A new sensor was installed carefully. Same low coolant error. It was confirmed to be low. It's still bleeding out air. So more coolant was added. I'll keep adding coolant until it doesn't need any. Hopefully the code will clear. I'll pull out the Foxwell and scan it better.


Is idle supposed to change when the 710 ( :nanana: ) cap is removed? With the cap off before replacing the CCV system, it would idle almost idle the same. Now, if the cap is removed, idle does change by a lot. Is that normal now? It only has about 30 miles on it. So far, no codes but the "Check coolant level".

If you take the oil cap off, extra air gets into the intake past the IACV through the crankcase ventilator.

All the new hoses must be working properly. The old hoses will be cracked open. I'm wondering of any are clogged. I didn't see any goo while taking it apart. I want to see the CCV insides for sure. The intake was clean inside. One last check this week before installing the top engine cover. With cold weather here now, the wifey wants to use heated seats!

A final coolant leak was chased down on Thursday. It might have been the original leak which started a refresh. The shroud and fan were taken off. Only the drive belt was taken off. Using a small mirror and flashlight, the leak was found. No leaks under the 1 year old thermostat. The water pump had evidence of leaking for a while. The o ring was completely flat. Bolts were loose too. The pump has a BMW stamp on it. A new 125,000 mile warranty pump with a metal impeller is installed. A nut was dropped wearing gloves. It couldn't be found. Four new flat locking nut were used. The size is M6-1.00 if I remember correctly. I'll have to check the receipt.

A new URO coolant level sensor was installed. It still dings for low coolant. I'll top if off everyday for a week. If it doesn't clear, a dealer sensor will be tried.

It's been over a month. No leaks until yesterday. Is it normal for seals to leak when it's cold? It's been below freezing for a few days. The leak is right below the tank. The new tank is going to be replaced anyway. The "check coolant level" is annoying. I'll get underneath and check the leak location. A replacement tank is ready. I'll keep the removed one as an emergency replacement.

What would cause this seal to blow out? It has run fine for several weeks. I know it was seat properly. I looked at it while installing several tank coolant sensors. After installing new OEM dealer seals, it's worse now. It doesn't leak while idling. It does leak when moving. Vibration is causing leaks. The replaced plate may not fit properly. I'll check the lock clip. I wonder if one side is not seated properly.

The tank was replaced too. Unfortunately, the other new tank didn't fix the "check coolant level" warning. I'll check the plug for power. I'll even try a temporary bypass.

I had the same problem and mine was that the middle thin flange got a rolled edge on installation. The hard plastic flanges got screwed (twice [emoji28]) because of angle of entry....

Granted you may have something completely different but at .15 cents each it's worth buying extras.

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If that's what I think it is, that cooler was very difficult to get fully seated on the radiator plate. I had to use silicon spray, a 4ft pry bar, and more leverage than I was comfortable with. It took at least 30 minutes because I was scared I was going to break something. Finally got so frustrated I went hog on it and it popped in. :dunno:


Edit: And as EODguy mentioned. Going in straight is key. Very frustrating job...

Hog tie it on? HMMMMM.......
The plate has a plastic pinnacle. It's the stopping point right? I need to look at it more closely. Or is the plastic pinnacle a guide? I remember using a good size pry bar to get it off.
Does anyone have a picture of it seated? How far in does the cooler go into the mounting plate?

The two tanks tried were included in kits. I've ordered an OEM Nissens.

Here's the best oil cooler gap picture I could find after a search. :wow:

This week, I'll remove the shroud and fan. Installation instructions state to install the cooler with a unmounted plate! Coolant and transmission oil are lost. However, the first part states, insert the lock clip. Push the cooler until it clicks in place. I'll try to reseat it with the shroud and fan off. Pictures will be taken on final cooler/plate gaps.

Hog tie? I "went hog" as in exerted as much pressure as it took to either break something or fit the part. Result be damned. :rofl:

But this Pelican article has a few shots that might help. Though they are from an M62 I think the coolers are all similar?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

This is probably the best pic.

Attachment 83910

Pelican pics did show up on a search. I didn't blow up that pic for a big view. I'm more convinced the cooler is not seated correctly. I think the plastic pinnacle is stopping it short. A picture showing the pinnacle was not found. Your picture shows the pinnacle right under the yellow arrow.

A new mounting plate arrives tomorrow. It will be a back up plan. The coolant will be drained. I'll go "hog on it". The OEM upper hose was almost hot tied to pull off. I couldn't get it off the coolant tank. It took 15 minutes or more since it was on so tight. I felt it was going to break off. A new tank will go on too. The "check coolant level" notice is annoying.

Make sure to buy at least a double set of X-rings as that flange is what rolled on me and made it a straight up pain in the ass...

#22 aka #17https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...847da3d8d8.jpg

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EODguy, I bought four from a local dealership. The closest dealer didn't have any. I drove across town 20 miles to the other dealership. They had 5. I bought four. Two are on it now. Two more are available incase one or both are damaged.

a bit of grease or dishwashing detergent might help with that ;)

[emoji106]

I was almost to the point of buying a truck load of them when I screwed the 2nd one up! [emoji38]

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Send me a full box! Yesterday, I drained the coolant. Instructions were followed to install the clip first. Second, push in the oil cooler. A nice click was was heard. A bit of coolant was added. It leaked. I even trimmed the plastic pinnacle. The cooler was snug up against the mounting bracket. Luckily, I'm prepared. A new FCP bracket arrived yesterday. A replacement tank too. Both will be replaced when weather and time permit. For now, the X5 is a rolling stone.

While installing a new plate and tank, I notice the transmission tank has a bent corner. Someone has taken it off prior to my refresh. Not wanting to cause further damage, I had to find a way to press it in. The clip was installed on the plate before installation. The best tool I had handy was the clutch fan spanner. Reaching from underneath, the frame was used for leverage. One quick tug and the cooler popped in. Enough water was added to test for leaks. Blue coolant was added once no leaks were seen.

Finally some free time and nice weather! A new tank and mounting plate were installed. All the work went slow and steady. The fan and shroud were taken off for better access. A break in drive was done too. No leaks were noted! The plate installation during the refresh was probably not correct. It was my first time doing such work on so many plastic parts. I'll check the coolant level every drive for 1-2 weeks.
Attached are oil cooler pictures. Hopefully others will find them useful. Install the mounting clip first. Next, use the fan spanner wrench for leverage. The oil cooler tank will pop right in. :cool:


Positive: My missing 19mm ratchet wrench was found. On the wiper cowl! I have no idea how it didn't go flying off for several weeks.

Negative: After all the coolant system refresh, three sensors, and now a third tank with a sensor, the "check coolant level" warning is still active. :(

:thumbup: Nice to finally get through a frustrating problem triumphant (excepting the low coolant warning).

That looks very similar to the angle of attack I took with my pry bar. I used a metal plate (or something, old man memory) on the cooler to spread the load so I didn't have a point load crush a corner like that.

For the warning... might be time to trace the harness to look for signs of fraying or rodent chewing. An end to end continuity check should tell you if there is a break in one of the wires.

So much confidence in it now, I'm driving it with "spirit". A good degrease and power wash will be done before installing the lower air flow plastic plate.

Next, trace the coolant sensor wiring. Is power to the coolant sensor 5V or 12V? Is it continuous? Will a bypass wire work? Does anyone know where the harness routes or ends? I can probe it along curves or sharp bends. Time to pull out the Power Probe short finder.

Is there an admin that can change the original post title? Change it to something like "coolant refresh learning experiences and challenges?".

If I remember correctly the coolant light warning should be off when the circuit is shorted so that way the light would come on if the sensor gets disconnected or there is a break in the wiring. I think also that it is controlled by the LCM and not just a wire to the bulb on the dash. I would try shorting it out at the connector. You could also do some testing on the cooling switch to verify how the system works.

The bobbing float can be pushed down or pulled up, no change on warning. Next, bypass it and check wiring.

Another item for anyone that does a coolant refresh. Check the intake for oil residue on runners. At first, I thought it was the DISA valve. The intake seam is starting to separate. All of my brake cleaner inventory kept being used up. Using some high temp RTV, I sealed it. So far, no more oil residue running down the intake runners.

Next time the intake comes off, it will upgraded. Which performance intake fits? Plus upgrade the valve cover to aluminum.

Ok, the oil cooler leak is back. It teeters too much. The seal can come out enough to drip. It really leaked when 1.0+ bar pressure was applied. Since the cooler is bent, I'll order a replacement. How much transmission fluid is lost during replacement? Hopefully, not enough is lost to get to a shop for filling and check. The filter and fluid have about 20k miles on them them. The transfer case oil too. I may go ahead and ask for a transfer case oil drain and fill. I'm almost sure it had OEM fluid in it when I had it drained and filled shortly after purchase.

Which brand of oil cooler work? Wow, OEM is crazy high.

A wire bypass was tried on the coolant level sensor plug. I need a thinner bypass wire to try. If the wire used did bypass it, the warning didn't go away.

To keep from losing fluid I pit cigarette butts in the holes. They are the perfect fit and swell shut.

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The transfer case fluid should have nothing to do with the cooler ??? Did you do some voltage or continuity measurements at the coolant sensor connector ??

Oh, nothing wrong with the transfer case. After installing a new cooler, I’ll drive the X5 to a transmission shop to check fluid level. Since I’ll be there, I may get the transfer case fluid changed. The shop charged like $125 after discounts for a transfer case and transmission oil/filter change.

No measurements were taken at the sensor connector. Pin connectors are so small. I may use my mA clamp meter or find my piercing probes. Thanks!

Amazingly, a temporary fix has worked for a few days. No more coolant has been added. The transmission lines are causing the oil cooler to teeter. The transmission lines were secured temporarily with a strong wide tie wrap. Is there a bracket down by the frame to secure the transmission lines? If oil lines are secured, the cooler stays pushed into the tank mount bracket.

Coolant system overhaul complete. After 2k miles, the low coolant warning is turned off. I know the wire was intact when I checked it. It must have been broken inside. After a few more miles, it broke completely. It was an easy find when probed with a voltmeter.

The white clip has to come out carefully. Using a small screwdriver, the pins were released. Another screwdriver pushed the pins out. The broken wire was repaired. Pins were reinserted without issue. Tape and wire loom now protect the harness. Harbor Freight tube holders were installed. The transmission lines no longer teeter the oil cooler. After a test drive, no coolant leaks were seen at the oil cooler. Small holes were drilled into the belly pan low points. A leak will be visible quicker.