Transfer case rebuild NV125. Bearing question.
 

So I'm rebuilding the transfer case and filming a video, in case anyone would be interested.

I just got this bearing kit, and the bearing seems different from the original.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/285416192375...mis&media=COPY

It doesn't look the same.
https://i.ibb.co/0V1h7kc/20231030-070758.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/MgvGsbB/20231030-070802.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/wWCZ1wn/20231030-070807.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/pJBhhZB/20231030-145543.jpg

OEM bearing is SKF, and replacement bearing is Nachi, which I guess is a good company as well.

The bearing number is 6013 but I guess the suffix is just as important.

OEM bearing:
TN9 Glass fibre reinforced PA66 cage, ball centred

Ebay bearing:
C3 Radial internal clearance greater than Normal

For those who know anything about bearings, can I install the bearing I got from eBay? Or should i return the kit and try to obtain exactly identical bearings?

I really don't want to nilly willy install the wrong bearings and have to drop the transfer case another time to redo the job...

Any help highly appreciated!!

Interesting. Post how the rebuild goes. The company is down the highway from Austin.

Nachi is an outstanding bearing company.
Nachi bearings are inside many Volvos...

I was only concerned by the different suffix rather than the company.
https://www.skf.com/in/products/roll...gnation-system

It seems all these designations mean something, and I'm not sure if they'd be any issues, for example C3 - clearance greater than normal.

I took apart the old skf bearing, and saw that the balls are held by a plastic round clip, that's why the bearing looked closed or sealed at first sight, and looks different.
The nachi bearing has the balls centered in a metal clip on both sides. Maybe it's even better.
The nachi bearing spins a lot longer by hand, that's for sure. It's also a lot louder, but maybe that won't be noticeable when it's swimming in transmission fluid...


I https://i.ibb.co/jfbnpxv/20231031-021355.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Z8X4RSB/20231031-021401.jpg

The OE bearings in my LWX500 case were C3 bearings, so I think you'll be fine.

Thanks for the info, I'll use it then.

Was trying to change the output flange seal and ended up cracking the case lol.
https://i.ibb.co/MyvgyXB/20231031-121001.jpg
remove duplicate email addresses

Didn't know how to remove the gear so tried pressing it out. Turns out there's 2 circlips on each side of the bearing. So looked like I should've removed the seal first, then the smaller circlip, and then presses out the gear/nearing.

Now will need to go to junkyard to pull another TC.
What a pisa lol...

Oh shit. Not good.
Subscribed.

On YouTube, there is a nice video on BMW TC rebuild.
You may want to watch that first prevent all these mishaps.

Do you have a link? I couldn't find a single video where the output flange side was removed.

Subscribed! A chain replacement is on my longer term list, but I could just buy an eBay t-case and do a full rebuild thanks to these threads and videos.

I found NV125 case for cheap, $200, will go pick it up tonight! If I can take it apart properly this time, I'll do a video on it shortly.

Got the "new" TC" and managed to take it apart properly this time!
Now just need to figure out a way to remove this last bearing, and every single bearing and seal will have been replaced!

https://i.ibb.co/sCCMVhj/20231101-221638.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/YyLQwt4/Screenshot-...21-Gallery.jpg

pliers to spread and remove horseshoe style lock rings
 

Looks like an external "horseshoe" lock ring holding the bearing in place. If it is, then try something like this tool:
Attachment 83675
Attachment 83676

I wish. It's part of the transfer case.
https://i.ibb.co/wdS7qTD/IMG-20231101-WA0017.jpg

The only tool so far that I can imagine to work is this
Neck Bearing Race Puller, Steering Neck Bearing Race Remover Metal for 1‑1/8in To 2‑5/8in ID Races https://a.co/d/9xJ25fs

No clue if it will work or not. I have some ideas of tools that could possibly work, but I haven't found them in existence (only in my head).

If this tool doesn't work, I will try packing toilet paper!

Was going to change some of the bearings in the meantime, and they're wrong again. The 6011 bearing doesn't have a groove like the original for the circlip! This ebay seller is a total joke and doesn't know what he's doing, just threw some bearings together!!!

https://i.ibb.co/V29crkC/20231102-121644.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/xLvDHNq/20231102-121648.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/By3g3nr/20231102-121716.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/frcgPdn/20231102-121727.jpg
dirge william shakespeare

Also the 6013 bearing I posted about at the beginning of this thread, original bearing has no groove, but the one I got in the kit has a groove. This is retarded...
https://i.ibb.co/qxPwqQN/20231102-122341.jpg
I guess the only way is now to reorder from cobra transmission...

Heat the alloy case - the bearing will drop out.

How warm is it safe to heat it to?

The alloy casting won't melt with less than 800-900DegC. so stay lower than that! :bustingup

But seriuosly, I use a hot air gun to heat motorcycle hubs etc when changing wheel bearings - I dont get them hot enough to melt the paint but it makes a massive difference.... maybe 150Deg.C :dunno:

What was wrong with the old one, noisy, slack chain. What was your mileage.


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I just rebuilt one of these last August. No worries on heating the case section and trying to rig a puller to get it out. Just slice where the notch is with a Dremel type tool and a larger diameter disc (I used one from 'Gyro'), or a pneumatic tool with a cut-off disc. Slice it all the way down, then bend it inward from there. I was cautious to avoid stressing the walls of the bore very much as cast aluminum isn't very forgiving. To install the new one I left the new bearing in a freezer for a while, lubed up the bore, and pressed it in on a Harbor Freight press.

Believe it or not, nothing at all...
Was just one of those "while in there" things...I know, not very typical, but I just thought I'd rebuild it for "fun"

Thanks Tempest, that's exactly what I did on my "practice" transfer case.
Cut half of the bearing, then was able to knock out the needles. Then I was able to get a blind puller in there, gran the upper side of the bearing from the inside and pull it out.

I was just wondering if there was some specialty tool to do this job "clean".

BTW, did you replace all the bearings? If so, where did you buy your bearings? Did you buy a kit on individually?

I bought the bearings and seals as kits from Cobra Transmission. Everything was correct and fit without issue. I don't know how far you are into yours yet, but I screwed up a metal shield on the main shaft when I was trying to get it apart. The main shaft is pressed out in such a way that the bearing remains in the front half of the case. Once that main shaft is out, then you can remove the bearing after removing a retaining clip. Initially I thought the beating stayed on the shaft, so I tried inserting a punch and tapping on what I thought was the bearing as seen from the front with the seal removed. It turned out not to be the bearing, but a thin steel shield that sits between the bearing and the seal...Lord only knows what purpose it serves. The LWX500 transfer case is actually a simpler, but more robust version of the NV125. It doesn't have these extra bits, and comes apart much easier.

I think you can order it from cobra transmission as well.
I've taken everything apart, just waiting on that bearing, it's taking forever.
I thought it would be a one day job, but it's been almost a month now.
Hopefully I get the bearing next week and can complete it.
Don't feel bad about the metal shield.
I didn't realize the shaft had snaprings on both sides, and I ended cracking the whole case while pressing it out.
So had go find another used transfer case lol...
I did record everything on video, so once I'm done, I'll post it. A lot easier by looking at the actual pictures to understand what's going on.

Finally got the bearing and the answer from SKF

https://i.ibb.co/KX7FS86/Screenshot-...3503-Gmail.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/vXs7vtH/Screenshot-...13250-Shop.jpg

Not sure why they're saying 6011-ZNR/C3
Z stands for shield on one side, and the original bearing did not have any shields, so I don't think it's necessary.

Now the TC is ready to go back together!

https://youtu.be/4J0gBAnMsM0?si=I9haMWszf5Asu1L3

Rebuild done! Put a few thousand kms on it, no issues!

Thanks for doing this. Will be a big help when I tackle this job.