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X5 in trans safe made
Does anyone have one have a reliable wiring? Schematic for the 2001 BMW X5 E53.4.4L.
Initially, the problem was a no start issue and after replacing the Ignition switch as well as the starter. The problem was unresolved. we bypassed the Ignition switch to get it started, but after that, the transmission went into fail Safe mode. The rear airbag Suspension system also stopped working at the same time as when the fail safe mode started. I'm trying to see if these 2 systems share a simular relay or module. Any thoughts or suggestions that can help me locate this electronics Grimlin would be really appreciated. Thanks again in advance. |
Welcome to the joys of putting your X5 into transport/line mode most likely.
After your bypass it has probably pissed off the EWS. What codes do you have (not generic P-codes) now? Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk |
1 Attachment(s)
The code that I think I need to address first is a transmission code for the neutral switch. any thoughts on how I can bench test this switch before I pull the Trigger on ordering a new non returnable part? I attached the scanner print out in case you wanted to take a look at that.
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Thank you Phil. I appreciate you. I'll let you know ow how it goes.
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You’re welcome.
Actually, I should have made it clearer that the continuity test is between the positive pin and the four ‘L’ pins. https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds Phil |
Well, after a lot of trouble shooting I'm still back at zero. I have replaced the transmission neutral switch. Twice and I still get a no start issue. I do not have a shift indicator light on the dash To show what gear the vehicle is in. Where do I go from here?
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Not generic P-codes, but the BMW codes... Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk |
I'm getting transmission neutral safety switch code and there is no communication being logged for the transmission control unit.
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Does key on run position show gear position on the dash (but very dim)? What actual code are you getting? e.g. 4e21 There are several possibilities, that I had before.... 1.Mechatronic gearshift is bad. 2. Safety interlock to ignition switch is bad. 3. Mechatronic Valvebody is not working (internal or external harness, reed switch is sending incorrect gear position) What scanner are you using and if it shows live data is it showing Transmission in agreement with gearshift position (all positions) note that the car doesn't have to be running for this test... Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk |
It may be worth performing the continuity check right back at the 40-pin transmission ECU connector as well, just to ensure that the wiring is sound all the way to the inhibitor switch. These are the relevant pins :
31 = +ve 34 = L1 24 = L2 14 = L3 4 = L4 https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds Phil |
Getting closer but not quite there
It seems like I'm getting closer to fixing my truck, but it still feels like i'm miles away.
After a lot of troubleshooting and diagnosing different things, we finally narrow part of the problem down to the TCM/transmission control module. I sent it off to have it diagnosed and fixed. The transmission neutral safety switch was also failed and then replaced. My transmission is still staying in Trans Fail-safe mode. I have a battery light that stays on my instrument cluster. I read in a another gentleman's post that his instrument cluster was the culprit. I have ATC m code coming up. But i'm not sure the transmission has failed or is the culprit of the trans fail problem. I will attach the diagnostic report from my scanner. I had voltage tested and everything is charging correctly. The battery is brand new, but I have this crazy battery light that will not go off. It is my understanding that any problems in the charging system can create a trans fail safe condition code. We have a speedometer instrument, cluster repair shop in my city, and their advice was to swap out a good known cluster with the same part number before having them to Do a repair that may or may not fix the battery light issue. I'm trying to get additional insight. 4 help that may get me closer to resolving this issue. Thanks in advance. |
It ended up good being the speedometer.
After a lot of troubleshooting and parts being replaced, we finally narrowed the problem down to a faulty speedometer.
We were really literally at our wit's end, and we were about to throw our in the towel, But we finally saw a post that talked about that the speedormeter. And it's relationship to other modules in the vehicle. The instrument cluster does what's called a handshake with the dme and the tcm as well as other components in order to relay A functionality.status. Any faults in any of these modules Can and will trigger what I have been experiencing. After replacing battery alternator, transmission,control module, neutral safety switch, I wasn't any closer to having a normally operating vehicle. A rogue battery Light was displaying on the instrument cluster and I couldn't figure out what was going on. After sending off the instrument cluster to be repaired. I am finally relieved to say that I have. And normally operating vehicle. Hope this helps |
Awesome! Thanks for following up and glad you got it fixed finally :thumbup:
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