2005 4.4i with 157K - Time for Suspension Refresh?
 

I've owned my 4.4i Sport X5 since 2011 and I'm wondering if it's due for a suspension refresh/rebuild. The current stats are as follows:

- 157K miles.
- Original staggered 19" Style 132 wheels are not on vehicle due to lack of suitable tires. I'm currently running 18" Style 69 wheels with Pirelli Scorpion all season tires with 15K miles on them.
- Recent puncture in left front tire. Tire damaged, so currently on the full size 17" factory spare wheel/tire.
- Original shocks
- Original control arms, bushings, etc.
- New Arnott air springs about 3K miles ago.
- Last alignment was done about 15K miles ago.
- Tire wear is pretty even except for the right rear which has a bit more wear on the inside than the rest.
- Ever so slight vibration at highway speed (before and after installing spare tire).

I recently purchased a nice set of refurbished 4.6is 20" Style 87 wheels (!) that will get Continetal DWS 06 tires, but I don't want to install them until I know the suspension is in top shape. My plan has been to refresh/rebuild the suspension and get an alignment this Fall when things have cooled down. That being said, running on the spare tire (and not having a spare in the trunk) has added some urgency to the situation. On top of that, we're going out of town in a few weeks and wanted to take the X5. :(

What I have in mind consists of:
- Replace the shocks/struts with new Bilstein B4's.
- Replace all of the control arms, bushings, etc. using Lemforder parts using kit from FCP Euro.
- Replace subframe mounts.
- 4 wheel alignment.
- Install new 4.6is wheels/tires.

My plan has been to do all of the work myself then take it to get an alignment. I like the idea of replacing everything with new and knowing that my suspension is good for another 100K+ miles, BUT is that unnecessary/overkill?

Since I'm now running on the spare, I don't feel like I have the luxury of waiting until Fall. That now begs the question, should I scramble to replace everything myself, OR would I be better off taking it to a known good independent shop and paying them to check/replace only what they deem necessary and do the alignment? Another factor is are there any special tools required to replace any of the aforementioned parts?

I'd certainly appreciate any thoughts/suggestions/advice!

Depending on the roads you drive and how you drive, you're probably overdue for a suspension refresh. Replace everything in the suspension including the rear ball joints. You'll need the special tool for that. A universal tool will not work. You'll also need a special tool to replace the subframe bushings.

X2.
I’m on my third set of front tension struts at 170k and the control arms are due for a refresh too (will be third set). I redid everything in the rear for the first time at approx 110k, and it’s still in good shape.

In my case though the car was complaining loudly and telling me it was time for a refresh.

Sort of like being married, huh? :rofl:

Seriously, thank you both for the confirmation. I feel better about replacing everything and knowing that it's good for another 100K+.

I'll look into the special tool for the subframe. I knew that one is needed for the ball joints, but hadn't gotten as far as the subframe tool. Is there an aftermarket tool available?

Yeah, like so many BMW tools it’s a one and done sort of thing. You’ll use it once to do the subframe bushings and never need it again. I’d did the rear ball joints with a “normal” bushing press that had extra large cups that I borrowed.

Id lend you the subframe tool, but I traded it to a guy for something else… that I can’t recall right now.

The front axle refresh is all driveway work (a lift would definitely make things easier tho). The biggest challenge, in my experience, can be getting the tension strut ball joint, and wishbone ball joint, out of the bearing carrier/hub. There is a not so expensive tool for the wishbone ball joint, but the tension strut piece is a separate one and can really be stuck. I’m sure there is a tool as well, and I’ve found that wailing on it with a big hammer tends to work.

Finally, anything with a rubber bushing needs to get the final torque done with the weight of the car on it.

Or you can raise the wheels to ride height with a jack and then torque. Much easier to torque it that way than sitting on the ground. Especially, when it's lowered like mine. ;)

For some reason, I'm not getting email notifications when a reply comes in. :dunno:

At any rate, glad to know about putting the car down, or wheels up to ride height when putting final torque on anything with rubber bushings. I did find a subframe mount press kit that isn't too expensive.

As far as working underneath, I have some wheel cribbing that I made when I replaced the rear brake lines a couple of years ago. The line that runs from the front to the rear had rusted and started leaking, so I made a new line out of copper-nickel and replaced the flex lines with new stainless braided. Fortunately, I noticed the leak before it actually let go! :yikes:

The pic below just shows 3 layers of cribbing, but I have enough to put the entire vehicle up on 4 layers if necessary.

The front ball joints are a real pain to get out. I haven't got to the rears yet but I heard they're worse of course. The little metal ears will somehow have welded themselves to the knuckle. I sat their chiseling away at it with a screwdriver for a long time, but then used the oscillating tool to plunge cut where it had welded. Then it was a whole process of oil / heat and hammering the crap out of them to get them out. Getting them in was pretty easy, sand the cup a bit and put them in the freezer for a couple days first.

I did the front control arms on the ground once with the long extension out of the front bumper, the wishbone was easy, but the tension strut I could only get one click at a time. The last time I just did it by jacking up the wheel and I'll probably just keep doing it that way.

If you take the control arms off and the sway bar end links and the shocks and everything and the brake calipers, it's not too much further to do the axles, and then lower the front subframe, reseal the oil pan, front diff, and engine mounts. And the power steering system and the cooling system. And the accessories. And the oil filter housing. :thumbup:

Has anyone used this tool for the thrust arm ball joint?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bal...cta-tools-4013

There are a couple different versions on their site. One “universal” kit is quite expensive, but this one is pretty cheap. Hopefully it’s up to the task.

I am hoping that it will also work on the front wishbone control arms ball joint somehow too. Although I can’t see how it would accommodate the broad backside of that ball joint (with the ears that bolt to the knuckle). I’m thinking of getting it however, as I need new control arm wishbones. So far I’m pleased with the Turner monoball thrust arm bushings I installed, so I’m going to try their control arms now. The combination of terrible roads here, and I think, the tire/wheel package and lift I’ve got on the x5 wears the OE rubber bushings out quickly.

I've tried the one at the auto parts store and it was not big enough to fit over the joint. Harbor freight has a bigger one and I proceeded to break that and nearly take my head off. There's a hydraulic one out there that looks pretty good. I have had good results with the air hammer.