Brake refresh
 

Been reading up on the various master cylinder and booster replacement threads. Great reading and tips.

I’ve noticed that my pedal is initially firm, then sinks towards the floor significantly before engaging, and is somewhat spongy thereafter. All original parts, so I’m not surprised that something would be failing. From my reading I suspect the master cylinder, but the spongy pedal makes me think the booster could be going bad as well.

I’m thinking I’ll just do both, since 80% of the work seems to be getting the parts out. I’ll replace the line from the booster to the “sucking jet pump” (great name, by the way) too. The “SJP” is only 2 yrs old as I replaced it with the motor swap. Although I do have a spare as somehow I bought two of those things when ordering parts for the motor change.

Anything else while I’ve got it all apart?

A good excuse to get a good brake bleeder and figure out how to use my new, high speed Foxwell to bleed the ABS module as well. Thanks all.

Pressure bleeder!


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Better than the vacuum type bleeders? It seems like the pressure bleeders are more suitable for doing it by yourself.

Also, is the ABS bleed procedure with the foxwell done simultaneously as bleeding the calipers, or a separate step?

Vacuum bleeder is specifically mentioned against in the BMW repair guides I've seen. (as well as having buddy pump/hold the brake pedal).

There's a step in the process when to run the pump or abs block you should be able to find it with a search

I would probably just go all the way. Get the big brake kit, new lines, new metal pipes, entirely new brake system. That would be really nice. I don't think the rear pipes are that hard to replace. The dealer tech I think lied to me and said he would have to drop the entire rear subframe and the entire fuel tank, but I think you just have to drop those plastic covers as for the fuel filter and the pipes are right there.

I need to do what you describe to mine one of these days, I just dread working under the dash on the pedals, as it causes me to get strange muscle cramps in my back and rib cage. :D

The pressure bleeder is really nice, though I still had to do it four times, the rear lines are very hard to bleed on these cars. It wasn't so bad on F30 and E36.

The service function for the pump tells you exactly when you have to do it, and it's not all that often, really just replacing the pump or opening those lines.

I replaced the old rubber collapsed hoses with the stainless lines by Goodridge from FCP Euro and they're ok. There was a copper sealing washer, but the fitting bottomed out long before crushing this washer. A little concerning, but it doesn't leak.: dunno:

I do have my stock front calipers sitting here, good for a rebuild, 130k, if you or anyone wants them for rebuild. I went looking for them the other day and I think they're in the other bin. I don't want to throw them away, just cover shipping.

Ahh, thanks for the tipper. Pressure bleeder it is. Not too expensive at FCP, and it would be a good tool to have.

As far as a full brake refresh Factory, the solid brake lines are in great shape, and I added stainless lines to the calipers a few years ago. Big brakes, while very nice, likely aren’t possible because I’ve got 16” wheels on the X5. I already have a sixteenth or so removed from the back of the front calipers to keep them from rubbing.

I’m interested in your old calipers, but am not relishing the thought of grinding down a new set. My front calipers especially are in need of a rebuild. I may just go that route if I’m replacing the booster, master and bleeding the things. I could do rebuild my calipers and do a full flush and bleed.

I agree, working under the dash blows. Need to be a carnival contortionist to get it done under there. I had to run some wires thru the firewall where the clutch pedal would go (or at least that what I thought the hole was for) and hurt for days after. I have a new hood latch cable section to install at some point as mine is showing serious wear and the plastic part where the two cables connect is cracked, and am just putting it off.

Brake refresh
 

You can use the pressure bleeder with the right fitting to pressure test coolant for leaks when cold. Nice bonus.

Learn how to break into your hood in case that cable breaks. I posted how to do for e70 (had to reference my own thread to get into my hood)