another major problem I don't need (no crank, no start)
 

Well, wouldn't you know it, but everytime I think I'm getting one of my problems sorted-out, up pop 2-3 others, to take its' place.

What's been happening, August-October:

• 1) I successfully got 3 of 5 vehicles inspected and registered, with only minor repairs,
• 2) I'm about to do fluids etc on 2 more, for upcoming inspections,
• 3) I finished my MAF tuning "project box" just yesterday https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...n-revised.html,
• 4) I got our LG french-door fridge repaired for free (not counting about $500 in spoiled food thrown out), and
• 5) I've been real busy for over a month, by myself, while the wife has been taking care of her younger sister (58 y.o.), mother (82 y.o.), and her mom's twin sister (also 82 y.o.) while they're ill, and probably will continue that way for months (racking-up miles commuting between counties), with me doing all the "animal" chores for her menagerie of critters at home...I'm wearing out. and don't need any other problems now.

What's happening now:

• 1) my X5 won't start, because somethings not right. It began after I got the state inspection, and for the second time in two years, it wouldn't start on the first turn of the key. When leaving the tax office later, it took 5 turns of the key to get it to start, so we came straight home, skipping shopping,
• 2) then home, I started it up easily the first time, then hooked up my Foxweel to read codes, but the scan tool gave me a blue screen, saying that the data was corrupted,
• 3) the SD card had to be re-formatted, and I had to use the USB interface cord to reload all the missing programs onto the Foxwell (2+ hours for BMW, GM, OBD, Toyota-Lexus software),
• 4) back in the X5, first no starts for 6 times,10 times, 20 times, then not at all.

So, istead of continuing with my MAF project, I'm looking at these threads https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...art-issue.html, and https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...amond-key.html, to find a solution.

The weird thing about the no start, is that I'd wiggle the key, wiggle the shifter, start in P or N, and sometime a combination might start it, but never twice in a row.

And the codes and live data kept changing, and added to my confusion. I'm about ready to bypass the EWS entirely, as I stated on one of those other threads.
Attachment 84529 these codes are usually present

Attachment 84530 I have no idea what's the comm problem

Attachment 84531 first, the key is not identified,and the EWS shows a random code problem

Attachment 84532 second, the key is still not identified, but no fault for the EWS
Attachment 84533 live data now shows the key as properly identified

NO CRANK, NO START
 

I can't believe I didn't state the problem correctly. Frustration, I guess. Where to begin?

Also, since I posted in three threads just now, with EWS mentioned in all, suddenly YouTube is recommending multiple videos about BMW EWS's, all of a sudden. I wasn't even searching for any.

If you think the EWS delete is necessary, I'll help. It worked great on mine. If you install a fused kill switch, then you don't have to worry about someone using a screwdriver to start it.

Do you suspect the key electrical ignition part? I have an OEM one not being used. I can send it to swap out. I don't think those need coding. I swapped mine out trying to chase a parasitic drain.

I have a PDF to email. It details EWS testing. If you order the EWS deleted DME, only one more mod is needed. A fuse needs to be trimmed to fit the EWS plug. I used small snipers to trim it. A file will work too. Only edges need trimming. You can install a kill bypass switch there.

I saw a "50's Kid" video on YouTube after I PM'd you last night, showing how to use the 30-amp fuse in the EWS plug to determine whether or not the EWS is going bad, and causing the no crank.

I'll try that first, as it will let me know if it's the EWS module gone bad or not. Please send me the PDF, because I need to pinpoint the problem, and delete the EWS if it is bad.

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It sounds like a damaged/intermittent key - the EWS cannot reliably read the code from the key.

I can't recall what your key situation is - still got the original diamond key?

key may be bad, EWS too, and the ignition as well, oh my!
 

Yes, it's the one and only key I received upon trading cars. I replaced the battery in it three years ago, and charge it on a Phillips Sonicare Toothbrush Charger (since I seldom drive the X much).

When I cut the case halves apart to change the battery, I accidently broke a small wire inside, and had to resolder it, and the keep has worked ever since, except for once when I'd run the main battery down to 11v, while testing things, and another time when I might not have insered the key in far enough (thick silicone cover, since cut away).

I do have 2 spares without the blades cut (remote functions only, in case I get locked out with the main key left inside...I always carry one with me), and an empty diamond key with the blade cut (standing by to use when I need to change the battery again, or when I delete the EWS).

I've been researching all morning on Google and YouTube to see how to

• 1) jumper the EWS module to test the starter (found),
• 2) replace the ignition switch block (found) and,
• 3) re-sync the Key with EWS and DME (watching that video now...update: requires an AK90+, MS43 Wiki downloads, and more computer skills than I possess, so no).

If, after jumping the EWS, and I find the start problem is EWS-related, and not a flukey starter (which I doubt), then I'll try and re-sync the key (while leaving the EWS jumped). I might just order a new ignition switch block, too. And I'm getting a "Car Key ECU Test Coil" just to make sure the EWS ring antenna is able to pick up the key chip.

There was a transmission "no comm" code, that worries me, but I might've caused it myself, trying the starter in avery position on the shifter, rapidly. Who knows?

except it hasn't... your "EWS fault" could be still be the key failing. ;)

The key has TWO internal functions and I think you are thinking that if the fob can unlock/lock the car, then BOTH functions are good. That is NOT the case. The EWS function in the key fob can fail independently of the unlock/lock function.

don't want to resolder the key again, if I can avoid it
 

Except that when I had to resolder the trace that came loose, it was to restore the unlock/lock function. The key would start the X, but wouldn't unlock the door...I had to use the mechanical door lock ubtil I resoldered it.

Of course, it could be coming apart inside, but that doesn't explain the no comm with the EGS (transmission). Or why one minute the key is identified, and next minute it's not.

I do have the spare key housing with the cut blade ready to use, but i'm wary of cutting oped the original again, to see if something went wrong inside. I can't see close-up well enough to resolder if I find that it needs it. So that's why I'm leaning towards an EWS bypass or complete delete, whichever works, at the lowest cost.

You are correct - that doesn't explain the EGS issue but if the key is "coming apart inside" then your non-start symptoms are explained...

I just think it's worth trying to eliminate this (simple) possibility before gutting out the EWS. ;)

And if it turns out to be a failing key, rather than disabling the EWS, it may be cheaper and easier to simply buy a new diamond key from a dealer... just saying. ;)

I just bought 2 keys had them cut and programed for $96 USD. The dealer here would have been $185 USD each.

YMMV....

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now i'm thinking bad battery
 

As I stated, the battery (of the X, not the key) was at 79% before I charged it last evening. I didn't try to start it.

This a.m., 15 hours later, it again read 79-80%, so I charged it again at 10 amps for 3 hours, and the state of charge rose to 95%. Then, just now, it started perfectly 8 times in a row, before I stopped.

So, I guess my key is working, the EWS and DME are synced with the key, and I probably need a new battery.

But, at no time did the onboard battery meter (plugged into the cigar lighter socket) ever show less than 12.3 volts, even when it wouldn't crank yesterday.

The lowest I had seen the voltage drop was back when I had a previous no-start after testing (about 17 months ago):

from another thread: I always have the X plugged into a 1.5a Battery Tender at home, but it looks like my truck needs OVER 12.5 volts to crank/start. My '04 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L only needs 12v, and my '09 Chevy HHR Panel 2.2L will start at 11.5v. Are all old E53's so finicky?

I was just about to order a EWS-deleted DME, but decided to try the X as it is, once more. I can only afford one thing at a time (on my limited, post retirement budget), so

• 1) $ 150 battery first,
• 2) $ 150 EWS-deleted DME, OR
• 3) new diamond key from https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/, but the website says the E53 master key is not for sale???
  
  Attachment 84536

Negative ghost rider. The pattern is full. We have to think some other route to buzz the tower. :cool:

battery bad/dying, X5 key still working, one step at a time
 

You guys are funny. https://tenor.com/view/arte-johnson-...g-gif-15141626

Seriously, and I am taking this problem seriously, I resumed testing this afternoon, after charging the battery once more for 3.5 hours. It read 100% charged, but instantly dropped to 80%. I was still able to start the X with no trouble, with the A/C blower on low, and my electric radiator fan at 75% (2250 rpm). No problems after 5 starts. But, the voltage gauge in the truck dropped to 12.2v. So I went inside to fetch my phone (for pictures), and the Foxwell to read for codes.

Upon returning, I set the "Clore/Solar Pro-Logic PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Stable Power Supply" on the 20amp power supply mode, and hooked-up the NT510. I also started and stopped the engine 10-12 more cycles over 45 minutes, with no problems.

With the power supply going, the voltage stayed at 13.6v, and with it and the engine started and idling (A/C on), 14.3-14.5 volts were supplied. The Foxwell performed better, as did the X. So, I will need a new battery after all, and I'll be sure to carry along a jump box as insurance, and also never test without the engine running or the Power Supply running.

As for yesterday's codes: only one KOMBI code remained after I cleared them, and I got a mystery ZKE fault (but no code was shown?).

Attachment 84537 stable power supply helps everything

Attachment 84538 the key, EWS, and DME seem to be in sync; the transmission control is communicating once more

Attachment 84539 usually two, but always this KOMBI fault

The kombi BD fault is common to many (most?) E53s - Electronic Brake Force Distribution - aka EBV. :rolleyes:

I often see this on my own car - although it was gone on my last check during an oil service last week. :confused:

If you wanna do down another rabbit hole, Google e53 EBV fault! :rofl:

Same here. Comes every time and doesn't affect anything, not even my personal nightmares.

On a side note I just purchased a E70 LCi 40d, so my problems are not going to diminish. :D

Questions about the BST, and losing module memory/sync/programming
 

This afternoon, I transferred all the tools, supplies, and spare parts, which I store in the trunk of the X5, into my HHR Panel, for temporary storage there, so I could gain access to the battery (I haven't been in there for three years). All my stuff, including the spare tire, filled the HHR (I guess its about 3-400 lbs total weight), but I needed to get to the battery.

I wanted to use my old Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric) carbon-pile battery load tester, since I believe my battery is dying, and the "electronic" battery and alternator tests (performed with an Innova 3100i scan tool) have been innaccurate...so back to an old-school method.

However, once I observed the battery (all terminals tight and clean), I saw and remembered the BST (battery safety terminal) installed on the positive post. I usually test batteries (with the carbon-pile tester), with the cables still hooked-up, but I'm afraid that doing so on the X, will trigger the BST to self-destruct.

Also, if/when I remove the cables (for testing or replacing the battery), I'm also afraid that my truck will lose the sync from all the modules (again). Should I worry? or just connect a "memory saver" device to the OBD port?

I took a picture of the battery (I have no idea how old it is), but I haven't found the manufacture or install date, yet. Anyway, I need to further confirm that the battery is failing, before the CFO allows me to buy another battery (my '04 2500 HD, backup vehicle, has needed one for two months, also).
Attachment 84540

Some batteries have the production week/year (xx/xx) marked on top of either post.

a young battery
 

I found the date sticker on the left side, below the gas tube. It read 5/20. if this battery is dying, it will be the only one I've had that didn't make it at least 6.5 years.

Hey, Clavurion, to hook-up and use my carbon-pile tester, can I use the B+ and B- posts underhood instead? I don't want to deal with the BST at the battery, if I don't have a memory saver, yet. Will it work?

Not an expert, but I don't think using the B+ terminal is a good idea. I know it doesn't work on the B+ with my Bluetooth based battery tester. I have to disconnect the battery in the back with it. It sounds like your tool is going to put load on the battery. I wouldn't risk that with all the electronics in the vehicle exposed.

B+ & B- are far from the battery, and the cables are too small
 

I've been reading about the BST on the battery; it gets triggered by the airbag sensor system, and shouldn't be affected by just hooking up the battery load tester (shouldn't ?!?). So, I'll be careful using my tester, and not create sparks on that post.

And, if the BST does blow, there are generic replacements (the BMW OEM part is stupid expensive), or I can just not replace it at all.

Just pull the battery. I have done so many times and not lost sync. If you do it's still a minor problem as opposed to the risk of nuking something expensive/difficult or hard to find....

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battery doesn't read BAD, but it's certainly not GOOD
 

Ok, I let the X sit for almost two days, without charging, starting, or testing it.

First thing, today, I checked the "state of charge %" and the battery voltage, on the "Clore/Solar Pro-Logic PL2320" I left hooked-up under the hood. It read 48%, and 12.3 volts, though I had fully charged the battery two days ago. I hadn't started the X since the charge, so unless I have a massive battery drain, the battery has little reserve power left.

Second, just to see if it would, I started the truck, and turned on the A/C and my Flex-A-Lite fan (for a load), and the X's alternator responded by furnishing 14.5+ volts. I ran it for about five minutes, then checked the SOC% (it went up to 95%), and battery voltage (now 12.7v), before going to the trunk for the next test.

Third: I used a needle-nosed vise-grip to clamp on the battery+ terminal (avoiding the BST), and ran three tests within five minutes (per instructions, and past experience) using the HF/Chicago Electric analog battery tester. First test said good, but with 12.3v, second test (after a cool-down interval) showed it hovering between good and weak at 12.0v, and the third test at five minutes had the needle just above weak, with voltage during the test at 11.5v.

Back to the PL2320, I saw that the SOC% had dropped to 58%, and battery voltage to 12.3v. I then returned to post this here.

Though the battery was warranted for 36 months, and is about 41 months old, I guess it's past its' prime. I've read that Autocraft Gold batteries (by Johnson Controls), have a history of just lasting as long as their warranty, then failing soon afterwards. Figures. Time to get a new one, but this time I'll either get a Duracell from Sam's Club (made by East Penn), which I've had good luck using before, or an EverStart Maxx from Walmart (which I've had last for 10 years . or more).

Also, I just bought a "Clore Automotive/SOLAR ESA30 OBD II Memory Saver Connector" for $11, which I'll use when changing the battery. Better safe than sorry.

That's a cool device for keeping the settings while the battery is out. I haven't had any problems other than resetting the clock on mine. I guess I lose some of historical data too, avg mpg, etc. In reading the reviews on a couple of the devices, some people said that the device fried their electronics. So I'll probably hold off on buying one.

As I mentioned, with my Bluetooth tester Thinkcar-Bluetooth-Battery-Tester, it seems only to work reliably with the battery disconnected from the X5. One of the HD reviews says you need an Internet connection to use it. That is not my experience, but I may have an earlier model. Mine doesn't have the voltage display on the cable like the one pictured.

I buy my batteries from Sam's Club generally, recently the non-AGM Duracell ones. I think I've had three, plus the original BMW one, which lasted about 8 years, in 21 years of ownership

just can't bring myself to buy a new battery, for some reason
 

Previously, I had used every bit of a battery's life, before I would buy a replacement; there would be no doubt in my mind if it was truly done for, or not.

The recent tests I've done on the 41 month old battery were comparatively ambiguous, with no "bad" or even "weak" judgments proclaimed by either the digital or analog test meters I used. So, I tried testing for current draw, just to see if that would tell me why the battery is never staying above 70% (last two days), and usually goes to 55-58% after cranking (w/o recharging).

First, I used my amp clamp in the trunk, and it showed a 3.5 amp draw, but that was with the trunk lights etc. on, and I didn't want to remove the bulbs or fuses, so I moved up to the B+ cable, underhood. There, the amp draw was around .40, and after 16 minutes, that dropped to .13 to .15 amps, after the truck went to sleep. Seems OK to me.

If/when I do buy a new battery, and the X fails to crank using it, I'll never hear the last of it from my CFO. I'm expected to keep the house, cars, and pets in fine fettle, without spending anything (my monthly "allowance" is entirely spent doing just that). Damn, I wish it was like the first 30 years, when I spent freely, pursuing my car hobby, without worry (of course, my current income is <20% of what I formerly made).

Oh well. sh#t happens, and then you die. P.S. I already informed her we'll be getting the battery tomorrow, but I'd just like to see positive-proof that the battery is totally done.

0.13 - 0.15 amps is 130-150mA - about 3-4 times higher than the nominal spec. of 30-50mA

While 150mA is not a huge load, it will drain your battery over the course of a week or two....

didn't unplug the hood sensor
 

I ran that amp test with the hood open, and didn't unplug the hood sensor; I saw the amp reading drop after 16 minutes, so I assumed that there was no current flowing inside the X...was the hood sensor still drawing power?

Not likely but something may have still been active... and a DC clamp meter is not very accurate at low currents like that. The best accurate draw test is multimeter in line with a battery lead (pos or neg), set to the 10Amp range.

You are probably fine... I'd guess that the DC clamp meter is off a bit at those currents - and the big drop at 16 mins is good! :thumbup:

Mine sleeps at spec, 11 mA. Took me over a year to find an amp draw. Temporarily deleting the EWS helped me solve the issue. When body options start to act up, the problem is likely a bad GMIII module.

possible parasitic drain cause; it's hell to get old & have to recover between jobs
 

I think I figured out the parasitic drain that was still drawing power, even after the rest of the X went to sleep, at 16 minutes. Even though I haven't checked the veracity of the info I read, some electronic battery charger/maintainers will draw power from the battery itself, even when they're unplugged from the AC voltage source.

While I was testing, I had both my Clore/Solar Pro-Logic PL2320 still hooked to the B+ and B- posts underhood, and my Battery Tender 1.25A charger/maintainer still plugged into the outlet at the rear of the console. I think the PL2320 was still connected to the 120vac (but not turned on), as I was monitoring both DC voltage and state-of-charge %, as displayed on the device; but, the Battery Tender (which is always left plugged into the rear cigarette-lighter socket) hasn't been connected to the ac power, during the tests I've been doing for several days.

I found a report that the PL2320 has been known to draw power, and it's a recent product, so the Battery Tender (at least 12 years old) is probably drawing power, too. I'm not going to test further, having removed my chargers and testing tools from the X, prior to switching out batteries, later today, if it doesn't rain (drizzling now, and I must work oytside).

In regards to the battery swap, I bought a Duracell-Group Size 49 H8 battery from Sam's Club, two days ago, but I haven't installed it yet. I bought the larger H8 since it was the same price as the smaller H7 (the prices dropped $20 today, of course). I put off doing the battery swap yesterday, because I threw out my back moving

• 1) the 52.5 lb battery in the garage (15 feet),
• 2) two 44 lb bags of dry cat food into my storage room/office (60 feet),
• 3) two 50 lb bags of chicken scratch to the Poultry Palace, a fancy, oversized 12x8x8 hen house, 100 feet), and
• 4) a 45 lb box of cat litter to the washer/dryer/utility room...where our four house cats have their beds and litter boxes (80 feet)

That doesn't include moving a full car-load of groceries from unattached garage into the kitchen (75 feet). Didn't do my bad knees any favors, either. At my age, even doing a simple job becomes painful.

The wife figured that it was a good day (prior to a week of predicted T-storms) to replenish our supplies, depleted while she's been away off-on for the best part of two months, and to replace the $500+ of meat that was ruined when the LG fridge's compressor (now repaired) died unnoticed, because she was out of town...as usual...and I was using food from a different fridge.

my battery memory saver got lost, and now I have a Christmas tree of lights
 

I was gathering my battery swap tools (memory saver, jump box, etc) and the memory saver had gone missing. Last time I remember seeing it was Wed afternoon, just before I gathered the trash to take out to the street for pickup. My theory is that our big orange cat got up on my desk and knocked the memory saver into the deskside trashcan, just before I grabbed that sack. I'm always catching him take things from my desk. My wife and I turned the house upside down (and I went thru my X5 and the HHR...where I moved the X's tools to...), and we found nothing, after two hours.

So, I followed EODguy's advice, and just pulled the battery. I had no trouble until I had to go into the house for a few minutes, and I shut the doors and closed the rear (using a towel to keep it from latching), due to our pride of semi-feral cats wanting to get inside any door left open. When I returned, I found the rear wiper bent down, the towel on the ground, and the hatch securely locked.

Fortunately, my PL2320 charger has a feature that lets it send 12v even without a battery present, and it let me in the trunk. I finished the install, and test-started the X, with no problems (except that I have a tri-fecta, quad-fecta, hex-fecta, whatever), on the dash now. I'll have to clear some codes tomorrow.

If you just drive it a bit you might solve the trifecta issue.

:thumbup:

Hope it works out! I haven't seen the trifecta when replacing mine.

Careful with your back. I got Sam's to install the battery last time. The installer was nice and understood my concerns about the air suspension. These same guys prioritized swapping out a flat I got last year. It was the first time I had used the spare in 20 years! Luckily I didn't have to drive on the highway with it, just the short trip home from the club until the special order replacement arrived.

trifecta won't go away (yet), and too much junk in the trunk
 

I spent about thirty minutes trying to get the Foxwell to delete all the dashlights, but even when the codes were cleared, the trifecta stayed lit. Error codes that remained were the traction control (voltage something), my usual two KOMBI faults (never go away), and they'd be clear then back again, after 5 tries. I guess the trifecta will go away after a few drive cycles...I hope.

As for my back, I took my time moving the tools and spare parts (that I'd moved into the HHR Panel) back into the trunk of the X. I had meant to weigh them, but forgot until I was nearly done, but I'm pretty sure my estimate of over 300 lbs is correct. Back not hurting, but we'll see tomorrow.

While in the back of the X, I replaced one of the license plate illumination bulbs, filled the spare (before loading the gear), (again) patched a couple of worn spots in the hatch weatherstrip (using more liquid rubber), and examined the wiper that was bent down by cats. I had tightened the nut as tight as I thought I should, but the wiper arm isn't tight now. I'll either use red loctite this time, or shop for a wiper delete kit. I'm tired of dealing with it.

In the last 10 years I haven't been able to get batteries to last past their 3 year warranty.