E53 Driver Lock Actuator not working- SOLVED- Power Window Switch was the problem
 

Hi I have bmw x5 2003 e53,

I had problem with the external door handle carrier and while I was replacing that, I had a stripped wire from lock actuator that contacted the door panel,
it was one of the the lock actutator wire that was twisted together by stupid me 6 years ago in a repair. but I only was using electrical tape... anyways.

after that replaced the door handle carrier I noticed, lock actutator doesnt work anymore.

my scanner was showing something about "Cricut overload Lead" I realized maybe because wire contacted the door metal, it fried the lock actuator. so I got another one from junkyard and it still doesnt work

I also checked all the fuses for central locking system in the glove back and the trunk.

my autophix scanner shows two error codes A2 and 46 for
"ZKE Central Body Electronic”

without having any description what it is, Gemini AI says

46: This code likely points to a voltage supply issue to the ZKE module.
A2: This code could indicate a general electrical fault within the ZKE system.

could this possibly mean I ruined the GM module ? if yes, if I buy GM module from junkyard can I just simply replace it or do I need a special something to configure it?

my 12V battery is Old but it reads on 11.5V (when not running) but I dont think if that is the problem becasue other Lock acutators work (other than driver side)

please help me

(btw I got some butt connectors and I also got new harness and wire for the lock actuator from junkyards, this time I am doing it correctly not using eletrical tape)

Ps the windows act weird (passenger window open with delay) could that be gm module?

For starters a fully powered battery is a must with these cars! Every electrical powered component needs to have its full allotment of power.
This I've come to learn when dealing with these components of the BMW.

Sent from my REVVL V+ 5G using Tapatalk

sufficient, stable voltage
 

I agree with the above; I've gotten many problems when testing components with engine off, and battery dipping to 11.5v or so, and later, when my battery had reached the end of its' life (12.0v resting, at 3+ y.o.), the problems grew worse (no start, no crank, EWS, immobiliser, tranny control module).

A new battery solved the latter set of problems, and I bought and use a 20 amp stable/constant power supply to use when testing with the engine off (20 amps is enough for pre-facelift E53's when for testing, not coding; 50 amps or more is better if coding is the goal).

Update: the 11.6 voltage i read was from the cigarette lighter, the actual battery from the contactors were 12.38

However i charged the battery over night and now it reads at 12.64v (it reads 12v from cigarette lighter) and it still didnt help.

Scott from bmwgm5 site told me it cant be the gm module and it might be the driver door window switch .

Now driver switch cant open front passenger window without weird glitches, i am gonna go to junkyard to fish out a driver switch

Shorting the wire to the door lock actuator is much more likely to damage whatever is driving the actuator and not so much the actuator itself. I thought it was GM that drives the door lock actuators but maybe check a wiring diagram. The driver door switch is the master and so can play a role with the other doors.

Update! I called scott from bmwgm5 who specializes in fixing gm modules he told me it must be the window switch and he was so damn right! It was! I replaced driver window switch and it works now!

Plus scott fixed my broken lock cylinder at an amazing unbelievable price! He is a real expert !!! He totally saved the day

Update! I called scott from bmwgm5 who specializes in fixing gm modules he told me it must be the window switch and he was so damn right! It was! I replaced driver window switch and it works now!

Plus scott fixed my broken lock cylinder at an amazing unbelievable price! He is a real expert !!! He totally saved the day