Anyone upgraded M54 to M62/N62 or anything else?
 

I can't seem to find any threads on the topic.
I have M54 3.0 automatic and I want to swap to 8 speed tranny like pazi. He has M57 diesel but those are impossible to find in Canada AFAIK.
So I want to swap both engine and transmission.

There are lots E53 V8 4.4, 4.6 and 4.8.
I've done too much to my E53, so I don't want to sell my i6 and buy v8 :)

I really wanna do a swap, but not finding lots of fresh info on E53

I’m sure a v8 swap into a 6 cylinder E53 is doable, but I suspect the least brain damage method would be to take everything from a donor…motor, gearbox, harnesses and most of the boxes/controllers. A very partial list would include at least the DME, DSC, EGS, and EWS. I think the front diff and AC compressor are the same on the V8 and straight 6 cars, so you can rob those from yours if needed.

I think all the E53 cars had either the 5hp or 6hp transmission, so no 8 speeds were used with either the N or M62. Someone smarter here can validate that. The 8hp in my wife’s G05 operates in an entirely different universe than any auto slush-box I’ve ever driven and has perhaps changed my mind about having an auto in any new cars I might have in the future. Except an M3…would have to be manual for me.

I daydream about swapping an 8hp into my E53. But relative to the swap of a complete m or n 62 motor and drive train into an e53, I think swapping an 8hp into an e53, and getting it all to play together, would pose a lot more brain damage and hurdles.

Just go forced induction on your M54...that's what I want to do one day.. ;)

Henn28

I think the diffs have different ratios, i.e. 3.0 engines have 4.1 diffs, while 4.4 engines had 3.64 diffs or some similar ratio.
I'd delete ews all together on a swap like this.

The 8 speed transmission has already been done, and there's information and kits available online, so that part doesn't scare me too much
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rrNnJT1y/

Canadian_E53
I'm thinking about that as well, upgrade tranny to ZF 8HP and then get SC kit for M54.
Haven't decided which route to go. If there's a simple way to upgrade to M62/N62, that'd be cheaper.
I can find a used running X5 4.4 or 4.6 for 2K canadian, and swap out all the needed components.

I can grab engine/tranny, front subframe, front diff, rear diff, both driveshafts etc. I just want to know the specifics based on someone who's done it before.

SC kits start at 5K USD, which after all said and done will come out to 10K CAD lol!

I was also thinking of M57 option, but don't see it for sale anywhere in Canada.

An m57 diesel e53 would be sweet but they never sold them in north America. When I went to latvia last year they were literally everywhere. E53s all over the place and a lot of them diesel and still in great condition. I was seriously considering purchasing one and having it shipped back since I had blown the head gasket on ours. Lol...but I didn't and I ended up just doing the head gasket on the m54

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I forgot about the ratios….definitely different. It’ll bolt up, but the front and rear ratios will need to match up.

M57 wouid be a sweet swap w/6-spd manual. I know there was a marine version sold by Yanmar, and it was also used in the 35d versions of X5/6 but assuredly only with automatic, and maybe the E90 (also auto-only) before it was replaced by the N57.

"Sure Salty but would YOU be capable of doing that?" Oh hell no.

I see some E70 diesels, I think they have M57.
Maybe I can find a broken E70 diesel for cheap and grab the motor :) not sure how to swap it though but maybe there's information on it somewhere

Chuck an LS motor in it.

Blasphemer! [emoji1787]

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Not sure about LS, I want all my cluster gauges to work :) oil temp etc

Looking up some stuff on realoem

So the front subframe and control arms seem to all be the same for 3.0, 4.4, 4.6 which is nice, compared to E39, where the whole sunframes are different.

For 4.6, it uses a newer transfer case, while pre LCI 4.4 still uses NV125, the same i have in my 3.0 2002.

Interestingly, both front and rear driveshafts for both 3.0, 4.4 and 4.6 are the same

The diffs on 3.0 are 4.1 ratio, on 4.4 they're 3.64 ratio, and on 4.6 they're 3.91 ratio.

So far it seems the swap wouldn't be too bad.

Either 4.4 or 4.6, if it comes in a combo of engine/transmission, transfer case, would be a pretty easy swap.

I'm not sure if 4.4 will for properly in 3.0

I'm a bit confused why engine mounts are different between M54 and M62 etc.?

Picked up this 4.8 today ;)
N62 swap it is! Gonna start the swap in a few weeks. Gonna be a nice challenge, never taken an engine or transmission out of any vehicle :)

https://i.ibb.co/gMSXZF0Y/20250522-125407.jpg

Plan is to swap dme, tcu, ews, steering column engine, tranny, TC, both diffs, driveshafts and exhaust. I

Nice find! :wow:


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

Lots of pics please! Looking forward to reading about it.

Looking into it further, my X5 is pre facelift.
The complicated part is transplanting the full wiring loom from the body, to communicate between dsc, abs, drive, transmission and dme.
I have to look at the wiring diagrams and see if its possible to do without swapping the full harness.

a job for fully-equipped shops, master mechanics, young men, and/or Saints
 

Good Luck! I wouldn't want to attempt this, though I've done dozens of such operations over the last 55 years.

It was much easier back then, with simple wiring, more spacious engine compartments, and mostly interchangeable components. I (and two friends) once swapped out one engine for another in an hour. It was in a tube-framed ex-Pro Stock drag car, where we were at a local drag strip, blew the engine during warm-ups, took it back to the owner's home shop, and installed its' old engine (still complete, with carb and flexplate still installed, just as it was when pulled a couple of weeks before) in time to get back to the strip for races. We had all the parts needed on hand, extra tools, lifts, etc., and a master mechanic (not me) in charge. Total time spent, including travel time, was 3 hours.

I might still be able to do that swap today, at 74, but I wouldn't even want to fiddle with the X5's myriad modules, harnesses, drivelines, etc., even in a straight drop-in swap (3.0 for 3.0 engine). My body and patience wouldn't be up to the job.

That's great experience!!
I wish vehicles were still this simple...
I'm trying to figure out the wiring.
Looking at wiring diagrams for dsc57 on prefacelift vs dxc8 on facelifted 4.8 x5. All the wiring seems to be different...
I don't know if I still wanna do this project if I need to spend a full week on tearing the interior apart to fully replace the body wiring harnesses hahaha

label everything and take pics of every step you take
 

Back in the day, we'd just wing it, not carefully documenting the steps taken for swapping engines; someone would either have more experience, or there would be a factory service manual on hand (they were expensive, though worth it...I used a 1972 Buick service manual for over 30 years, though I never worked on any Buicks, save in the GM Tech Training school where I got it, and many friends would borrow it for their projects). Or, a Chilton or Haynes manual from an auto parts store worked almost as well. There was no internet then, so you had to rely on someone or something handy, to even make headway, until you had done a similar swap before. I guess the Bentley manual is the equivalent for our X5's, though not as detailed as the 400 page Buick manual was (it had to be, since it covered all their models, accessories, etc.).

In later days, I/we started bagging parts (or pushing bolts thru cardboard, noting location in writing), and when digital cameras appeared, took pictures of every step taken (with everyone carrying smartphones now, it's even easier). I also used shipping tags with wire ties attached (available online from Amazon or Uline), since I used them at work in both my maintenance/troubleshooting or shipping/receiving parallel jobs (same company, for 46.5 years),so I had plenty.

One word of advice: be patient (actually 2 words). I have none, myself. The early days were harder, since I never learned to stop and step away if/when I became tired or careless, or confused. I'd often waste time by retracing my steps (before I learned to take pictures and follow the steps). In later days, I'd set daily goals and would press on until done (often until I was worn out, after an all-nighter in the shop). Since about 2005, I have finally learned to respect my age and limitations (mostly), and resume working on my projects over many days (even months). Try not to rush things.

https://i.ibb.co/1tmkCLBD/20250731-180210.jpg

Was a big day. Removed full exhaust, fuel tank, rear subframe, diff, 4 struts/air suspension, both driveshafts and halfshafts, front radiator and bumper reinforcement...
I think the engine is almost ready to come out. Gonna be a first one for me.
Need an engine crane and engine stand

not fun, working outside
 

I see that you're another "shade-tree mechanic" (but without a shade-tree for cover) like me. My 3-car garage is so filled with:

• my wife's precious Lexus,
• my precious home-made camping trailer (a 4'x8' unit),
• with a zero-turn and two push mowers,
• a wheeled string trimmer,
• a lot of home repair, auto repair, and lawn-use hand equipment:
  • polesaws,
  • brush-cutters,
  • trenchers,
  • T-post puller and installer tools,
  • air compressor,
  • wheeled charger,
  • two welders, bicycles,
  • wheeled generator (another one is installed inside the trailer),
  • circular saws, sawzall, table saw, hand saws,etc.,
  • some antiques,
  • coolers,
  • jack stands,
  • 17 gallons of 87 octane gas, a can of ethanol free gas, and two cans of white gas,
  • Rhino ramps (a set of steel ramps live in the driveway/car corral area,
  • a convection/microwave oven I never installed,
  • and a Chevy 327 engine,

that if I was to try a car-rebuild project there, I simply couldn't. Last time I did, my wife made me push the car out to put her car inside, before a hailstorm came through.

Oh, since that occasion, I sold my engine lift to the neighbor that I got the X5 from, since I knew I'd not likely ever use it inside the garage again. I have a different lift that I used to have mounted in the bed of my '04 Chevy 2500HD (used to lift engines, and generators, when I was building race cars or actually racing), that I could re-mount and use if/when I might need to, but probably won't, as I'm getting too old to be doing that sort of heavy lifting stuff, alone in my driveway.

So, since I'm forced to work outside on car projects, on a sandy/gravelly/leaf-strewn driveway/car corral area in front of the garage, behind the house (out of sight from the street), I put down 2.5 sheets of 4'x8', 3/4" thick treated plywood over the sand, secured a 4x4 with rebar to the front of the plywood "work surface", used two flat cinder blocks placed against the 4x4 as a front barrier to keep the steel ramps from sliding forward into the garage, and voila, there's my outdoor workspace.

Attachment 85020 the old way I worked outside, circa 2022

Attachment 85021 new "workspace" platform, from 2023 onwards

I'll use a 8'x8' pop-up canopy (from my camping gear) if I'll have a multi-day (once a multi-month) project going on, or even for some one-day projects in rain or excessive heat. I had one canopy get destroyed in a major storm, after it was up for months, but since I had two, bought for $50 apiece, it wasn't a big deal.

Also, since I'm working outside, and don't want to lose anything, I'll put parts in one box, tools in another (usually puppy pad boxes, since we go thru so many). We've got squirrels, possums, raccoons, semi-feral cats, free-ranging chickens & roosters, sometimes a neighbor's dogs & goats & turkeys, and occasionally his nosy 20-something kid coming into the workspace, so tools and parts MIGHT go missing, if I let them stay outside, unwatched.

Cool project!

One word of advice, please please please do all the engine seals, timing chain and valve stem seals while you have easy access.

Also make sure the cross through pipe, water pump etc are in good shape.

The timing chain is an engine out job, just get it done now before installing into your other e53.

Hey that's an awesome set up, making the best of what you got!
I have a double car garage and a hoist, but both spaces are taken by e39 m5 and e39 540i waiting for parts.
So the X5 is an my friend's house.
If things line up, im renting the engine crane on Monday and pulling the engine...then I need a bunch of $$$$$ for valve stem seal tool, timing kit etc. Just all the guides, gaskets and seals is probably gonna take me forever, not even including anything else. Like every projects I've undertaken, it's never as quick as one would want :)

Yes here are the parts that I've added to the cart so far

https://www.ecstuning.com/Cart/?add1...tent=link2cart

Nice work.

May I suggest you get the intake and exhaust actuators at the same time as these are also a known failure point (my N62 needed then as they lost oil pressure when the engine is off causing timing issues until they get oil pressure again).

https://spareto.com/products/aisin-a...e-lift/vcb-006

https://spareto.com/products/aisin-a...e-lift/vcb-003

Ahhh I'll see about that, this project is way over budget lol!! But appreciate the advice!

The crane is got had a busted jack cylinder....so i couldn't pull the engine. Got a new cylinder for 8 ton, hopefully it installs just fine.

So instead I started tracing the wires for A70006 Transmission control unit located under left side of rear seat.

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dupe list

One wiring loom goes to the transfer case and solenoid/actuator, then the other connector goes into the loom of the body. This is what i need to undo to figure out where to splice on my X5 2002.

The ground is easy to find, the power goes to F205 40 amp in the trunk. For some reason I can't find the diagram for the distribution box right now.

The other 4 wires go to Can HI, Can Low, Diagnostics and F46.
Not too bad.
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d12 roll

Will need to see where to get Hi and Low CAN as on my prefacelift it's the K bus version.
And power for fuse 46 comes from ignition switch. I figure my fuse 46 may not not come prepared

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free number generator app

Electronics is always a PITA.

That pic my BMW friends is why I won't ever buy a new BMW. :rofl:

If you were closer, I would let you borrow my engine hoist. It's disassembled for storage. :(

Keep posting project pictures. :popcorn:

Haha thanks, got the engine out!

I found a piece of transmission bellhousing cracked and broken off. I heard the driveshaft can do that. I'll get someone to weld it on.

I pressure washed the engine, it was too dirty to do anythjng on it...I wanted to bolt it to the stand, but the bolts from transmission to engins were too short...

I ordered some more bolts and will try again tomorrow.
I guess you bolt it at the back of the engine?

For now I'm sandblasting and cleaning all the parts I'm removing.

I'm taking apart the rear diff from 4.8 and installing the locker kit from ecs tuning.

Apparently the rear antiroll bar is thicker on 4.8, I'll need to verify that.

A big disappointment is the front subframe. I was stupid and thought they were the same, and damaged the one from 4.8.
Well I should've thought it better, since V8 and i6 engines have different mounting points, so now I'll have to find another front subframe from V8.
I wonder if engine point points on 4.4 and 4.8 front subframes are the same or different.

Next step is to secure the engine to the stand, and to remove carpets and dash/center console from the donor to obtain the needed wiring.

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upcase

Nice work!

It's a monster engine and transmission when out of the car isn't it!

This is mine undergoing surgery

Nice work! I don't feel so lonely anymore :)
Just stripping the inside now, getting the full wiring harness now to see how I go about that...

First major problem...was going to install ecs tuning locking diff kit into N62 rear diff, but turns out the diff washers are too large.
While ecs tuning website says that the kit will fit X5 2005 N62, in reality it's made for medium diffs. And N62 has a large diff. Now that really sucks, the kit was very expensive. So I guess unless I run both front and read diffs from M54, I won't be able to use the locking diff kit.
But even if I find a way to use them, the rear diff might blow up lol? It's medium, so on N62 engine might be too weak
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home of grace

That’s bizzare that ECS screwed up the diffs! I think you’d be fine swapping out the n62 diffs with the m62 diffs. The 4.6 E53s shared the same diffs as the 4.4 versions and the 4.6 makes almost as much power as the b48 version of the M62. An xtra 10 or 15 HP shouldn’t blow the diff up.

The question is, will the front diff from the 4.4/6 bolt to the oil pan of the 4.8? I doubt it as they look different on RealOEM and have different part numbers. I bet Quaife makes one that’ll fit.

Well I could swap both diffs from my M54, but there would be 2 problems.
#1 Transmission expects different gear ratios and will likely be throwing codes. M54 diff is 4.1, N62 is 3.91 I believe
#2 M54 medium size diff is weaker than N62 large diff, so maybe it will blow up lol, who knows. I'd prefer to take advantage of the large diff. My M54 is probably around 200HP, while N62 is about twice that...

I'll see if ecs tuning will return/refund or exchange for other parts...I think I'll just get racingdiff kit for rear diff
https://ebay.us/m/nuynLx

I'm just trying to put the diffs back together, but the spider gears just won't fit back lol. I'll try putting them in a freezer

Well I got lucky, ecs tuning agreed to a one time exception, and will give me store credit for this return.

The freezer trick worked as well, and I was able to put the diff gears back together.
Here I included some pictures from M54 medium diff, but the setup is exactly the same as on N62 large diff, just parts are bigger.
I've already put the 215k diff gears back after freezing them in the freezer, but I wonder if I did it right.
I should've taken pictures along the way of disassembly, but I was not expecting to reuse the concave washers and ring gears, as per Ecstuning.com instructions.

When it turned out I needed to put back original parts, I couldn't remember how they were lol.

There's only 2 washers that go on each side of the large top and bottom gears.
I think first I need to install the concave washer, with concave portion toward the flat part of the spider gear. Then install the flat washer, which would then contact the convex side of the first washer.

As for the 2 side spider gears (smaller), they only have one thing washer, so you can't go wrong on that.

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Moving along...

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ghislaine de boysson

Wow!

You are REALLY making headway on that! It's like you've made the old girl naked :rofl:

I can't believe how fast you are getting this done. Have you done a lot of this type of stuff?

Yea, remembering how to put stuff back together can be a problem lol.

That 4.8is didn't happen to have a DSP amp in it at all?

A trailer control module?

I'm after them.

Hope you get that thing back together correctly. It will grenade itself much more quickly, in my opinion, if it’s assembled incorrectly than if you use a 188k (medium) diff with your N62 motor.

I think these cars are sufficiently over-engineered that the diff, transmission, etc can take some extra torque. The 4.6 I swapped into my e53 is hooked up to thr 4.4 version of the 5HP ZF, amd stock front diff and it’s been doing great for 20k amd 3 years.

Great work on the project!

Slowly taking things apart. Parts are coming in...
Interestingly there's no ews delete for n62b48 (me 9.2) so I gotta keep DME, end and key. That's a bit annoying, one key for the door, one key to start the car lol.
My engine stand is bolted to the upper engine oil pan...so for now I cannot remove the upper oil pan
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I'll find a way to remove the upper oil pan, so I can remove the front timing cover, and do the timing chains and guides...

You could re-key the door lock to match your ignition key. Although I don't have a clue about the cost or if it would be better to order a new lock from the stealership....

Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk

Great progress!

What's next? How were the timing guides? Centre cooling pipe?

Yes ill worry about it if I can get the engine to even start/run :) no guarantees at this point hehe

I need to remove the upper oil pan to remove the front timing cover. And right now the engine stand is bolted to the upper oil pan. Because there was some damage to the engine, so I can't use those mounting holes for the engine stand.

https://i.ibb.co/8LSqLQQt/20250812-190255.jpg
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I might be able to remove the front timing cover without removing the upper oil pan, I'll try.

The CCV breather hose broke off while removing it, and i can't seem to find the part number on it.

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rpg dice generator


I'm thinking maybe today I can tackle the stem seals, or go to the scrap yard to cut off the missing piece on the engine support bracket and weld on the missing piece (circled in red in my photo)

All guides ended up being good, except one that had plastic broken off on the right side.

The chains were stretched but very little.

The left bolt holding the upper chain guide needed to the thread to be cut in half, otherwise the head needed to resembled to change the guide. What a design!
I could unclip the new plastic from the new guide, and clip it to the old guide, but then I would not be able to get the old chain out.

Lastly the left lower guide slides on some support with 2 orings, no clue if there's even a part number for them,
They're shown here at 46:05 min
https://youtu.be/uBVb-mYfFp0?si=NdTefAm4qr8aWpPS

Found the part number.
11411722837

Trying to upload photos.

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3d dice model online

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Just did some powdercoating while waiting on more parts. I'm wondering if I can powdercoat the new waterpump? Is there anything plastic/rubber or just pure metal?

Just sandblasting and powdercoating some parts while waiting on the last batch of orders to arrive.

Finally got the broken piece of engine block welded and fixed.
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First half of valve stem seals done. Definitely a learning curve...this engine is coming together. Checked the cylinders with a camera, they look clean.

Looking good.

What does the wear look like on the cam lobes?

I had a piece of plastic fall into the cylinder and I couldn't turn it over lol. Finally found it and removed it.

I will take some pictures of the cam lobes.
The cylinders look like they're in great shape.

I was going to do a leak down test, but realized that the intake camshafts have another row of smaller camshafts lol, which is vavletronic? Not sure how I'm supposed to close the valves to do the leak down test?

Tomorrow/after tomorrow the plan is to finally pull M54

N62 is still missing a few seals that are stuck in transit (canada post strike...)

That is essentially a body swap.....you have gumption taking that on without a lift. I pulled my transmission once and the engine/trans/TC + sub-frame twice and thought that was a major job...... This is next level.

This is a heck of a first engine and trans pull!

Read through the entire thread and looking forward to the updates and seeing it running.

https://i.ibb.co/NgrVkbvY/20251021-215356.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/qLK5kN32/20251021-215354.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/BVJx02fq/20251021-215353.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9mxDbN12/20251021-215351.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/tT3wYCtP/20251021-215334.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/RkVX3Djw/20251021-215319.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/KzxQ5NMK/20251021-215329.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/rRLWMrZD/20251021-215312.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9HVV9PHw/20251021-215308.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DgzZ4Sc6/20251021-215258.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/wZLtChCb/20251021-215304.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/3YPHQn4y/20251021-215251.jpg

Not sure if this looks or not, never worked on engines 🤪

Finally canada post strike is over and I received the orings, #12 on the diagrams.
https://i.ibb.co/kVkXv2kY/Screenshot...358-Chrome.jpg

Because the guide rail gets installed at an angle, unless i remove the head, I guess I wasn't careful enough and damaged one of the orings.
Gotta order them again lol!...
I should've installed the guide straight, over the orings, let it sit for a few hours to compress them, and then i would've probably been able to install at a slight angle.

End of October it's getting cold lol. I think I need to start swapping the wiring harness fast. Once it starts snowing it will be too hard to do all that outside...

At least you caught it before it went on, waiting for parts sucks though.

Yeah just gotta power through while waiting on parts...

Getting the wiring figured out lol

https://i.ibb.co/wN2NfVSV/20251023-210929.jpg

That wiring is an absolute nightmare! :explode:

Pulled most of the interior apart today

Rewraping 4.8 body harness with new tape.

Found this today. So lucky. Otherwise all this work could've been for nothing.

https://i.ibb.co/ycnNHz4H/20251024-202300.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Lh59q8Bt/20251024-202307.jpg


Already sold my tool, just need to see if there's a way to conpress the spring once to install the missing half

I have trouble figuring out if pinout diagrams are from behind the plug or looking at the plug lol...no way I could figure that out :rofl:

Pics arent showing on the latest post.

Ingbb.com link dead

Fixed the pics!

Haha when I bought this X5 in 2019 I believe, I didn't know what a wiring diagram was!
Pins are gonna be numbered on the connector so you can't go wrong.

When I bought this X5, it wasn't even running properly and had a bunch of electrical issues, where I was told to get rid of it and that I'd never fix it:rofl:
On my drive home, it kept dying and I needed to turn it off while rolling, then start again lol. I fixed that issue by replacing the throttle body.

I really regret buying for X5 for like $1k. Should've just bought a nice, clean X5 4.6/4.9 for $10k, and not had to deal with fully rebuilding it lol. On the other hand, I would've never learned everything i did.

I mean how hard can it be haha!

The newly found keeper (thank God!) throws a wrench into this project a bit, I just need to find a way to compress one spring to install it without the special tool. Sold it too soon....

I now regret not retrofitting the full air suspension, as my friend really convinced me that it drives a lot nicer lol. At least I will have the wiring in place if I decide to to it at a later point.

I got sick but gotta power through and remove the old harness today and start installing the new one.
2 more days of nice weather left.

I completely removed all the old tape, and re-wrapped with new test tape. My fingers are hurting haha but the old tape was brittle and falling apart.

I'll put up some video content of this project on YouTube :)

Air suspension does make a big difference, the 4.6 on air with 20's rides smoother than the 3.0 on coils with 19's.

But...its only on a side by side though. The coils sprung X still rides well for me (on 19's at least, not tried the 20's on it).

That's quite a start to X-ownership. Jump right in to the deep end!

Hope you get better soon! We are all waiting for updates on this. :rofl: