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Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 10:28 AM

Trailer control module issue
 
Hi all,

The X5 I bought had someone do a dodgy wiring for a reverse camera where they didn't go through the rear tailgate grommet so water ended up in the battery tray and the Trailer Control Module caught fire and melted the connector.

I cut off the burnt connector and bought another TCM plus connector and painfully soldered all the wires together.

After connecting the TCM and turning the car on I get the dreaded fast indicators after a few seconds and then the "check trailer lights" error message.

I've painfully traced all wires and they have continuity and are in the correct wiring order.

With the TCM module NOT installed my lights work normally.

Something I've noticed is if the TCM is installed, all the lights work on the car EXCEPT the reverse lights. I have not hooked up a trailer however I have tested all the trailer coupling pins and all are powering on as they should. Even the reverse pin for the trailer receives a 12V signal with the car in reverse.


If I disconnect the TCM module the reverse lights on the car now work as normal.

I really have no idea what's going on. It's like the Light Control Module stops sending a reverse signal to the car lights with the TCM connected yet is happy when it isn't connected?

I've confirmed that no power is being sent to the car reverse lights with the TCM installed.

Ideas? I'm running out of them and spent days diagnosing using wiring diagrams from ISTA. :dunno:

EDIT: Chatgpt reckons the module needs coding to the car even though it's itentical with the same part number as the old burnt out item?

Bdc101 06-10-2025 11:34 AM

The AHM (trailer module) should not need coding on any E53s, to my knowledge. (This is a great example of why we don't use ChatGPT to diagnose car problems, if we didn't already know that...)


If you get the check lights message as soon as you turn the car on with the AHM plugged in, it sounds like the AHM is shorting something out that is not shorted out when it is disconnected. That makes me think it's an issue with the AHM or the AHM wiring. But the car reverse lights come from the LCM if I recall correctly, so that seems odd that the LCM would stop illuminating the reverse lights when the AHM is connected. It makes me think something is shorted (or perhaps was shorted and now is broken) due to the original shorting and melting issue. Someone else might chime in here as I am not an expert on the LCM other.


You might consider just using some splice connectors to splice into the tail lights, and wiring up your trailer module that way. You'll get the "check lights" message but at least everything will work. My car was wired up this way when I bought it and I towed for four or five seasons with it like that, before I spent a bunch of money on a wiring harness and AHM module.

80stech 06-10-2025 11:59 AM

+1 I think I would be looking for a short (or maybe even a poor ground) in the wiring starting with the harness going to the trailer. I am assuming you don't have a trailer connected ?? Are you really sure that you have all the wires matched up correctly?

Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 01:53 PM

Thanks fellas,

Yep I'm sure every wire is correct. The weird thing it sounds like the Trailer Control Module thinks there is a trailer connected and is throwing the fault because there isn't any load on the circuit from bulbs.

It's also possible that the reverse lights are supposed to not come on with a trailer connected?

I checked pin 13 which is the Canbus to the LCM and I get 12v with the TCM disconnected and 10.8 with it connected.

Strange.

The second hand TCM I bought could also be faulty I suppose.

Appreciate the help!

80stech 06-10-2025 02:06 PM

Yes, I was actually going to mention that (I actually started typing then erased it) that maybe the reverse lights don't come on with the trailer or that it might be a coded option but I think you should really focus on the "fast lights" and code, not so much on the reverse light. Trying to check a bus data line signal with a digital volt meter is just going to add to the confusion as well. I don't know if Bdc101 is 100% sure that the module doesn't need to be coded and I have no experience with that.

Double and triple check the basics and your work and try to get a wiring diagram.

80stech 06-10-2025 02:15 PM

Have a good look at the connectors, if anyone has been prodding or not using the right tools or maybe there is some oxidation, especially if the connectors got hot, it could a problem.

Bdc101 06-10-2025 02:26 PM

For what it's worth, I installed a junkyard AHM into my 2003 and it worked with no coding.

Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 02:26 PM

I've checked the wiring with ISTA diagrams and things seem to be as they should.

I've checked the 7 pin trailer socket and all connectors are doing what they are supposed to (left indicator gives 12V at the correct pin etc etc).

I've tested continuity from the trailer control module to the trailer plug and all tests as it should with the correct wires going to the correct pins.

It's like the Trailer Control Module is defaulted to trailer connected?

I just don't know where to go to from here. I've spend hours and hours on this and all pins go to the right location.

The only other thing I can think of is the amount of soldered joins is creating some resistance to think it is connected? I soldered properly each wire and shrink wrapped each of the individual cables (all 15 of them).

Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdc101 (Post 1245132)
For what it's worth, I installed a junkyard AHM into my 2003 and it worked with no coding.

I was thinking that would be the case (unfortunately for me)

80stech 06-10-2025 02:36 PM

If any of the wires where burnt or corroded (or you didn't have solder hot enough, rosin flux core?) the solder will not connect electrically even it seems to hold mechanically. Did you replace both sides of the burnt connectors ? Can't say enough to "check the grounds" ;)

andrewwynn 06-10-2025 03:17 PM

Trailer control module issue
 
Test the pins with a load like a light bulb. DMM has Too high of impedance to show the correct v when loaded (that will help determine bad ground or connector)

Bdc101 06-10-2025 03:41 PM

Yeah, have you connected an actual trailer to the car yet? I wonder if the problem would go away when you have actual wires and loads.

Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 07:16 PM

No actual trailer yet.

I've also used a test light which lights up and beeps with power.

I'll check resistance for the earth and check continuity on the Canbus to the LCM.

Homerlovesbeer 06-10-2025 10:07 PM

Ok I've done some real time Data logging with a scan tool. For some reason there is no "Turn Indicator, Trailer, Right" showing in the trailer light module.

80stech 06-10-2025 11:28 PM

It does sound like it thinks the trailer is connected.

Homerlovesbeer 06-11-2025 05:55 AM

7 Attachment(s)
So I have traced all the wiring and it seems ok. A strange thing though is when I use my scan tool to activate the trailer lights the only one that seems to activate during the 15 sec test are the reverse lights.

However when I check functionality of the trailer lights manually using the indicators, brake pedal and lights using the scan tool they all show that they activate only while operating the car controls.

Again, no messages from the car on the dash until I operate something, then I get the check trailer lights message.

I'll upload the wiring diagrams for those interested.

I think Pin 10 is mislabeled at left when the description says right in the first schematic.

Appreciate your help.

80stech 06-11-2025 09:20 AM

For a moment I thought maybe you were on to something with checking the canbus line (maybe getting pulled down with module plugged in) but then (one would think) you shouldn't be able to access the module through the bus. You get an "A" for effort though! ;) I would be checking the vehicle lights even though they "seem" to be fine there could be a bad connection, poor ground, bad (maybe shorted)/wrong bulb that only comes into play with the module plugged in.

Homerlovesbeer 06-11-2025 01:28 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I've checked the ground for the AHM module and get continuity and 0.2 ohms resistance which seems pretty normal.

Pic of the offending 15 pin AHM and the trailer 12 pin connector.

Homerlovesbeer 06-11-2025 01:44 PM

5 Attachment(s)
The original unit that caught fire in the boot when it flooded. I might add that when the damage occurred the rear light indicators were doing weird things like staying on for a while then going off even though the car was turned off.

80stech 06-11-2025 04:35 PM

Is there any of the burnt wiring left that you haven't pulled apart and checked ?? I'm assuming the connectors have all been checked, cleaned and plugged in and out a few times ?

Homerlovesbeer 06-11-2025 08:11 PM

I haven't bothered with the 3 small adjoining connectors as they aren't in use and I don't think related.

Homerlovesbeer 06-12-2025 04:27 AM

So.......

After exhausting all possibilities of incorrect wiring, shorts and bad earths I went out to my 4.8is and pulled the AHM module out if it. Before putting that module into the X5 that had the AHM burn out I popped the 2nd hand unit I bought into the 4.8is.

Immediately upon using any sort of lighting I had the "check trailer lights" message appear.

I then put the known good AHM module into my Diesel X5 and no more "check trailer lights" message.

So after about 25 hours of trouble shooting it turns out my soldering and rewiring job was perfect and the second hand AHM module I bought is faulty! :banghead::angryfire

UNBELIEVABLE! :rolleyes:

PS The reverse lights on the car are still supposed to light with a trailer on.:whistle:

andrewwynn 06-12-2025 06:11 AM

Trailer control module issue
 
Good to have a second similar vehicle for part swap testing. (or in my case, bring a spare CPS to wife's X from mine to avoid calling a tow truck). Also happened once with fuel pump.

I would have already said new ≠ fixed, but i think you already mentioned the possibility. Good your sleuthing skills did get you there though!

You're at the point where i would say "piece of cake".

Ouch though.

Homerlovesbeer 06-12-2025 07:40 AM

Lol yep thanks.

With the faulty module half working and doing weird things it made the diagnosis a lot harder than if it flat out was dead.

andrewwynn 06-12-2025 09:32 AM

Broken fully always better than intermittent! I've chased intermittent faults for months before finally replacing something.

Recently chasing faults on wife's car for over a month, misfires random cylinders, replaced plugs and coils it gets better then much worse and says error with intake air pressure.

Problem is with Valvetronic. No excuse the ECU didn't flag properly. The requested and actual angle not close but the errors were everything under the sun besides the actual problem.


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