2003 X5 stalled while driving at low speed
 

Well car has just about 233k. Engine is strong and I'm not ready to give up on her, but she stalled now 3 times while driving at low speed and it's scary. Braking is odd bc no vacuum. Need to stop and move to park and it restarts. 1st time it happened 8k miles ago, but it recently happened 100 miles ago, twice in about 2 minutes. Then the car ran for an hour no issues and I've parked it.

Here are some recent service things done. Swapped dead fuel pump with my other car which was a 2006 with 80k miles. I only swapped the pump, not the float and housing. At the same time I also put in new crankshaft sensor. After these two items, about 1k miles that is when the car first stalled at low speed. It didn't happen again for like 8k miles. Before it happened again, I recently changed both camshaft sensors, fuel filter and oil change. After this work, car stalled twice as I said.

No codes, no errors. Car starts right up. Could be in my head but I feel like the start up makes a little extra hesitation on the crank, just an extra second or so. Really don't know what to do now. Engine is strong, good compression. Hate to give up.

Spark plugs can do that. You should still have some vacuum for braking after engine stalls unless the check valve isn't holding or the booster is shot. So your foot is off the gas when stalling happens ?

2003 X5 stalled while driving at low speed
 

Speed while driving? Driving under power or coasting?

Are the cam/crank sensors OEM or better?

To add to the confusion I had similar with a dodgy MAF. Did not pop codes at the time.

Edit: the stalling, not the brakes.

For the brakes I experienced similar on an N42 engine, it was a combination of a weak vacuum pump on head and faulty one way valve to booster.

You're onto something with the vacuum link.

You should get 3-4 brakes applications after the engine stalls.

If not, there's definitely a problem with vacuum retention.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Rapping on the MAF often works to weed out those ones.

Agreed, check for MAF problems with tap on MAF with screwdriver plastic handle.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

If fuel level < 1/4...maybe it is the infamous O-ring ?

Facts: good call. What's the fuel level?


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Hi, fuel tank is generally more than half full. My brakes work good and what I mean is that the brakes are not normal when the car shuts off. Yes I can brake and stop the car, but it's not really safe... Car was smoke tested so it's not a typical vac leak. I've dealt with that and usually has codes or engine misfires. None of that here. The stalls happened in traffic so low speed, like under 5 mph and likely foot off the gas coasting in traffic. I'm leaning toward replace fuel pump and housing, also swapping in a new MAF which I replaced maybe 5 years ago.

I doubt it's the fuel pump, try rapping on the MAF with your knuckles. Have a look at the spark plugs. If you want to replace parts then cam sensor would not be a bad idea. The brakes should work like normal at least for the first application when the cars stalls, so something probably going on there. Smoke test doesn't rule out a vacuum leak.

OK I see you replaced the cam sensors, but with OE parts ?? why was the crank sensor replaced ? was that replaced with OE ?? If the problem started after the crank sensor replacement that is highly suspect. Are you reading all the codes with your scanner ??

Especially if the leak is in the booster. Smoke test uses pressure and check valve at booster will block the smoke.

Push your brake before you start the car after sitting a long time even overnight usually will be enough vacuum the pedal is soft.

If you have a firm pedal suggests a leak in booster or the check valve is shot.

Booster leak is a classic diagnostic miss.

If car stalls when going from 5-0 mph it's always been the cam sensor on the cars I've maintained.

I don't usually see stall related to vacuum leak. I usually see plenty of errors if there's a leak or misfire from injectors or plugs.

You mentioned replacing CPS but did you use OEM or better? The engine is really particular on that sensor. New ≠ fixed. Follow the symptoms.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

I did not use OEM sensors. I changed the crank sensor bc I incorrectly diagnosed the failing fuel pump. Turned out it was the fuel pump.

I think I'm leaning toward swapping the battery and alternator. Alternator is original. I feel like the car is turning over a touch slower than normal. It's slight, but I know this car and feel it.

Two weeks ago, I drove upstate to fish Salmon on Lake Ontario. Car ran without a hitch. Actually range hit 650 miles with my new fuel filter, oil changed and new cam sensors. I think previously I've only seen Max range at 570 or so. Engine runs smooth. Idle is smooth and steady.

Clean the ICV valve, #1 culprit for stalling.

In my 2004 X3 2.5i, used to have random stalling, cleaned the ICV.
Zero problems since.

While there, change the rubber elbow (BMW part only, no aftermarket.

The smaller rubber bushing for the ICV: you can re-use it.

Good call on the ICV. May cure the problem just cleaning.

+1 on no fake intake boot get a real one. I tried to use a knock off it wasn't corrugated it just had ribs on the outside.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

I will try that first. What is the logic on cleaning it vs replacing the ICV. I'll read more about it. I know I've taken it off and checked it over the years. I do not recall replacing it ever, so it's original. My rubber elbow has been replaced, I will check for tears.

Turning over a bit slower is probably the starter. The alternator and battery should be easy enough to test at least to narrow down the slow cranking but also probably not totally waisted money changing if the alternator is original or the battery isn't great.

Regarding the ICV and vac leaks etc. it seems like many of these problems would cause poor running, poor idle, hard starts, bad fuel mileage, etc. I have nothing of that sort. Really seems more like electrical failure of some sort. The car doesn't hesitate and die, it just dies and dash lights come on. Car restarts without issue. Ugh. So frustrating bc feels unsafe driving it.

Get a measurement of the current draw at start. I think the 3.0 pulls about 225 cold start and 175 re-start. I took some voltage drop measurement from the 12v socket to B+ jump point and it worked out to about 1/300 of the current

Eg: .75v drop .75*300=225a

You need a DMM that will register peak DC voltage but that will get you a sense of starter health.

.625*300=187.5 was close to what I would get on an immediate restart. That was with my 3.0.

Most of the cases i read where somebody thinks a bad battery is causing weak starts it's really the starter.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

2003 X5 stalled while driving at low speed
 

If the stalls are low speed like stop/go 5-0 mph it's always been the CPS on the cars I've maintained.

If you used a knock off I'd switch it even if that's not the current cause as it's a guarantee to be the problem in the future.

Of a doezen or so CPS I've changed i think only one set an error code related to itself.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

So I assume all of us agree I should swap in BMW crank and cam sensors. Man replacing that crank sensor sucked.

Ok. I ordered a new fuel pump and new air filter. I'll clean the IAC and clean the MAF. I'll test the battery and the alternator and check over all the electric wiring. I'll go from there and report back.

Also ordered cam sensors Genuine BMW. Sadly, just had mechanic replace these, while I was having some minor surgery and didn't want to mess with the car in the meantime. I'll redo them, as I'm certain they were not genuine givennthe price I paid for the parts and labor.

I want to run this car to 300k miles, it's a lifelong goal. So I'm willing to put in new parts if I'm doing the labor because it's still relatively inexpensive. I just don't want to have an accident.

The crank sensor (and coolant tubes) pairs nicely with changing the starter. I have 500k km on mine so you probably have some good use left! ;) Some on this forum have just done a clean-up on the starter and have had good success getting the cranking speed back.

That's true. Refurbish is possible. First measure the current. If it's close to 225A that's normal and it likely is the battery.

You can search i think somebody posted about refurbish starter inn the past year


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

If I do end up replacing the ICV, and don't want to spend $500 for a Bosch part, are there aftermarket parts that are any good?

I bought a cheapie from amazon just to have on hand, but I know it's probably junk and won't last a year. RockAuto has a number of them from Wells, Standard Motor, Walker. I know from experience to avoid Üro parts.

The problem is more that the cheap part might not work properly, or at all, and drive you nuts, not so much that it won't last as long! ;) I think we had a member a while back go through the ICV thing.

I plug in the part at FCP and it will suggest which brands are OE or OEM as a starting point.

I will use aftermarket for non mission critical parts but cam/crank/maf/O₂ (pre cat) get OE when possible.

ICV is more mission helpful than critical. Some diagnostics involve unplugging the thing and the engine will still run just not great.

Did you replace any parts yet? Any changes in symptoms?


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Nope. Haven't done a thing yet... Just have the parts sitting. Hopefully get to it all in next week or two. Kind of still bothered by it all since it's like a ghost chase.

Well very minor update. Have driven the car 300 miles. No issue, not a blip. It was 8000 miles driven between the two stalls, so 300 isn't much but it's something. Meanwhile - I've only cleaned the MAF sensor and I also cleaned up the IACV. It was pretty dirty, rattling when I took it out but was dirty and slow after spraying it, it was rattling and swinging much more freely. I think this very well could be the issue. If the valve didn't open one of the thousands of times I've take my foot off the throttle. Well let's see, but driving will be somewhat limited for the time being.

Good :) but just in case you don't know, DO NOT use carb cleaner when cleaning the IAC motor.

What about brake kleen? I never m remember which can't be substituted.

Carb cleaner is bad when rubber is involved? No rubber seals in carb?

I was thinking maybe IAC. If stumble when going through curve happened to be off throttle = idle?


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Yeah, I think I used carb cleaner. Shoot!

Maybe it was some wimpy environmentally friendly stuff and you'll get away with it (fingers crossed,) otherwise if you start getting sticky IAC motor symptoms you'll know what you need.

Well 200 miles after cleaning the IACV, car did low speed stall on a turn. Similar to previous issues with the camshaft sensors, but mine are new from mechanic but not OEM BMW. No error codes. I hate to give up on this car bc of this, but I'm not sure where to look. Fuel pump is fine, no air leaks, cam and crank sensors are new, but not OEM. MAF and IAC cleaned. Idle RPM is stable and car idles perfectly fine. Damn.

I thought you ordered OE cam and crank sensors ?? Have you tried new spark plugs?

I had the parts but then figured shit how can my new ones be bad right away. But yeah now I'm leaning toward swapping the crank sensor again with OEM. The stalls happened after I replaced the sensor and the fuel pump. My issue was the bad fuel pump initially. So I'm just lost at the moment.

I can't see how one bad plug would cause the car to shut down with no codes. I don't think it's that.

Plugs will cause misfire but CKP will cause shutdown.

I don't recall if e53 needs it but it's typical to require precise shimming to .001".


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Can someone post a link or part number for the working junction box that plugs into the sensors and the Maf. I can't find it. My wires are old and brittle. The plastic wire cover is gone.

Just look under "engine wiring harness" but are sure you really need that?? it's going to be pricey, maybe a used one ?? It's 12517531986 for after 10/03 (I looked for mine but will give you an idea) over $600 on FCP!

I can see your point though, if a lot of people have been working on the vehicle and you have maybe broken connector housings and maybe suspect ruined/expanded contacts which can be intermittent and really hard to pin down. This would be in addition to changing the sensors (especially the crank) to OE, not instead right?

I think he's looking for just part of the harness. Junk yard will likely be the best option. It's also a ton of work to swap a whole harness. Sometimes you can just pull just the wires you need out of the loom and re-pin the connectors.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Thanks. I am going to first swap the crank sensor with OEM and then drive the car again. I can't in good faith keep driving the car without at least doing something which might resolve the issue. I need to keep testing. The issue started after I swapped the crank, so maybe it was a shitty one.

I don't really know how big the harness is, it's the one right next to the throttle body. I'm less worried about the connectors and more worried about the wires being brittle or broken inside from 23 years sitting next or on top of the coolant hose. I don't see any pics online that show the box where the wires are popping out from. Maybe the box opens and it's just a housing of some sort. I agree it would be difficult to change

I have a spare x5 with 79k miles, but don't really want to be poaching parts from it. Although it needs to be gone through.

I'll get back! Thank you all. I'm not giving up yet... Engine still has great compression and go, when it's not stalling.

Make sure the connector pins/sockets haven't been abused especially when you get to the crank sensor. You can butcher a pin out of an old sensor or at least make VERY sure that you get the EXACT size pin to check the fit of each socket in the connector when you are at that part.

I can't understand why you are having trouble finding that octopus harness in realoem, I used an old downloaded ETK and was no problem finding it. Anyway, I doubt the wires are as bad as you think but you can always take off some of the plastic tubing and have a look.

As far as the spark plugs, it's not just one bad plug. The coil over plug design doesn't create nearly as much spark energy as the older distributor systems so are a lot more sensitive to having good spark plugs. Mine has done it 2 or 3 times over the years where it stalled out or more often 'almost' stalled while sitting at a light and changing the spark plugs was the answer. The first time had me scratching my head for a while but when it happened again years later I just went straight to the spark plugs. Might not be your situation but something to keep in mind.

Thanks. I looked up the crank sensor I bought, it was Bremi brand. One review said it worked for 5 hours and left him stranded. This started after I swapped it in myself. So I'll swap in an OEM and keep going!

Yeah, car is not going to fix itself! ;)

Yeah. Agreed. Lol. I'll report back after Thanksgiving and more road testing.

FYI...

Bremi is the genuine supplier of speed sensor, ignition coils etc for many
European cars.

Bremi is a very reputable company.

Just stay away from counterfeit stuffs...

I looked into the TIS for the CKP and it doesn't mention shims so if you are using OEM/OE that should suffice.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

I'm resurrecting this thread. I'm sorry, I went off in another direction about the idle air control valve, which was not my issue.

That thread is here and I'm not going to post any longer on that one.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...on-needed.html

Here is an updated summary of where I'm at:

THE SYMPTOMS: At low speeds, off throttle or while braking, like bumper to bumper or parking lot, the engine will shut off with no warning. No stumble, no jerking, no hesitation. Car settings like the clock maintain. The car restarts perfectly every time. I've noticed that around 20mph off throttle the rpms will bounce just a touch like between 800-1000 range it bumps around a little bit. Idles perfect around 600, never shuts down when idling. Drives at high speed like the ultimate driving machine, never turns off at high speed.

MY ATTEMPTS TO FIX (in order mostly)
New fuel pump and filter (tried 2 fuel pumps actually bc I did needed a new one earlier this year).
Replaced both camshaft sensors (not OEM), mechanic did it while I was ill for a short time
Mechanic said he did a vac test
Replaced crank sensor twice, 2nd time was BMW OEM new part from FCP Euro
Oil changed
Swapped and cleaned the MAF
Replaced Idle Air Control Valve (URO), after cleaning the original which was shot and now thrown out
Checked battery terminals and alternator, all looked good
Replaced all spark plugs

What are you using for a scan tool?? We've had lots of people caught by not getting all the codes.

Guys, again I'm sorry for the dual threads and even I'm getting mixed up. Xoutpost is annoying on my phone. Please stick with me. I'm going to solve this and I want to learn more.

I have a simple actron OBD2 scanner. Used over the years for clearing codes and that's about it. I also have the airbag reset tool.

I've now ordered the Foxwell BMW NT510 Elite and also the Veepeek module and have the OBDFision App. I don't know much about them right now.

I also do have a smoke machine and smoke tester. Used in the past when my CCV had a huge wide open gap at the tube down low by the dipstick. I had codes then and sometimes the car would shake wildly, like a washing machine. Funny stories about that around 160k. I tried to smoke test the other day blowing into the resonater tube just after the MAF, I had a lot of pressure to the point where my rubber glove mod, popped off and all the smoke came out. That made me thing my smoke wasn't getting past the IACV or the throttle plate, which I presume was closed. I'll try and resolve from a CCV tube, but any other tips or links on proper smoke testing?

Thanks. Cold weather here so not doing much this weekend

Let's be honest. I'm a hack. It's incredible I've been able to run this car 234k miles with only bringing it to the shop for suspension work AFTER swapping a CV boot myself (just the boot, not even the half axle) and for tires. Also used mechanic for motor mounts and both front and rear control arms. That's it. 23 years. Never once left me stranded.

Anyway - I'm learning a ton watching videos in preparation for my new scan tools. Feel like I'm learning quite a bit about a real approach to diagnostics and will be happy to out this to use.

https://youtu.be/4iIxAI3XQIk?si=sBSLLGIkRDb7WQby
https://youtu.be/pIJdCZgEiys?si=yO_ECALzvmY9XLxG
https://youtu.be/TyYKe4vGl0g?si=dx65KTxE9n3IyWnZ

You ain’t no hack. You’re using your brain trying to figure stuff out. And if you don’t know it you seek it. That’s all that matters.

EDIT: at one point in time I did a DISA rebuild on my M54. All I know is that’s related to air intake control. Not sure if it could be stiff or something and cause issues like this. The scan tool will be the best thing first.

Thanks man. I'm going to check the DISA next time I take things apart. I have a spart DISA and the other one from my 2006. I'm going to clean the throttle body too. Never did that.

Cold winter day here in NJ. Thinking some more. Watching the videos...

When I changed the plugs, the old plugs definitely showed signs of a lean condition, but they were also old yet working fine. Since the stall only happens when decelerating which creates a lean condition on purpose, I started thinking about my Vanos solenoid. I didn't pay much attention to it, but I did notice there is a small oil leak at the banjo bolt or hose, and also my Vanos solenoid is original. I also don't change the oil too frequently since I'm always adding oil... Bottom line, bought a new solenoid and will install before replacing the cam sensors. I googled it, and it says the gummed up Vanos could mimic a lean condition due to its impact on timing.

Anyone have thoughts about this? Otherwise, I'm thinking there must be a vac leak or it's the cam sensors. The videos I'm watching really make sense and pushing me to think logically. If this was a short circuit, it wouldn't only happen at low speed, etc etc

Thanks all.

The Vanos solenoid on the M54 is just the electrical pilot valve, the main spool is in behind it so not like the others where it's all in one. I have trouble with the spool sticking on the wifes X3 (that sets the CEL) but the solenoids are unlikely to cause problems like you are having especially if they aren't setting codes. The solenoids can leak oil and it's not uncommon for the oil line to leak but that won't cause the stalling.

Ah, I see what you mean. The actually plunger part is not part of the solenoid. I now see it's a different part # 11367560298. Can I replace that part and the spring once the solenoid is off, or do I need to remove the entire front cover with the gasket to change it.

You can change the spool and spring once the solenoid is off but I seriously doubt that's your problem. Get your scan tool reading all the BMW specific codes before you further.

Yes I will. Absolutely. Figured wouldn't hurt to change the Vanos anyway. Unread people have issues after 50-100k, meanwhile mine is over 234k. I'm also thinking of flushing the transmission fluid, never did that, and also maybe one of my belt pulley is shot.and I should change. Anyway, will focus on the scans and sensor diagnostic. You are right!!! Have a good night and thanks again.

Quick question about smoke test. I did try to smoke test myself last week. I entered the smoke at the intake tube past the MAF, pressure built up and popped the rubber glove off and all my smoke poured out. This was after I put in the new URO idle control valve. So my question is, should the smoke have flowed through into the engine. I realize the throttle plate is closed, but should it go through the small vac lines in the rubber boot? Or the idle control valve?

Got my scan tools and will have time to mess around some tomorrow. Bitterly cold here.

The DME leaves the throttle open a bit after shut down but to smoke test the crankcase I would put smoke into the valve cover oil filler hole. I've never done a smoke test though so maybe others can chime in on that.

Interesting. I recall on the past testing via the intake tube. This time seemed different with the buildup of pressure. Maybe something going on with my throttle plate. It's on my list to take off and clean. Ingot a new gasket for it too. Thanks.

I usually inject smoke at a vacuum line like brake booster. I was able to get smoke past the throttle.

Crankcase I'll inject at the oil dipstick tube on cars that have one.

Mind the psi. Should only need 1-2 psi. Some smoke machines will pump pressure high enough to damage there likes of ccv.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

pump smoke through the intake hose or dipstick tube until smoke comes through the oil fill cap. Then close cap and looks for leaks...

Thanks. Smoked through the dipstick and nothing coming out anywhere.

Starting playing around with my BMW specific scanner. Short term fuel trims seemed okay. Nothing above 10 percent when driving and trying to look at it. Long term was around -8%. Oxygen sensor voltage reading in live data looked good.

I read codes for the DME and saw some interesting things.

IE

DME: Activation, ignition, cylinder 3

F3

DME: Misfire, cylinder 6

EE

DME: Misfire, cylinder 1

I also do see some fuel trim limits exceeded.

I cleared the codes now and also swapped the coil pack 3 with coil pack 1, then I drove the car 5 miles. No codes returned and the car drives fine.

So - do I just need to keep driving the car around?

I chased random cylinder misfire for a while before i figured out that i just needed to run injector cleaner.

Have you done that? A dirty injector or two could give you your symptoms but i thought you already did.

It is possible you have a bad injector also.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

So - keep driving until more codes show up???

Yes, I have some injector cleaner in there now and have used in the past.

I've never taken off the fuel rail or the intake manifold, so when the weather warms up, if all else continues to fail me, I will certain do that.

High-Pressure BMW Piezo Injector Service
https://www.redlineinjectors.com/ser...-flow-testing/


This is a personal friend of mine. He commented to me that when our injectors fail, they usually cause a rich condition bc they leak, but on occasion could go lean.

Does that personal friend of yours know anything about the M54 Siemens injectors having ceramic seats that can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaning ?

Long Term fuel trims at -8% ??

That's not right...that tells me it is running RICH.. The minus sign says that based on O2 readings the DME is removing fuel from the air/fuel ratio.

Ideally, the Long term trim should be about +2-3% after warm-up.

I would check fuel pressure at the rail...should be close to 50psi...We had a bad batch of Hengst fuel filter/regulators that resulted in 60 psi and a rich condition.

If your fuel pressure is good..Get your injectors tested or replaced.

It's amazing how much difference a scan tool that reads all the codes can make! I used to lead with the scan tool question but now take it for granted I guess especially with people that have been on the forum for a while. I have worn injectors and my M54 gets to -10 fuel trim where it turns on the CEL but no stalling issues. It would be nice to get an answer from the OP about the Siemens injectors though??

Not good news for my situation, having just bought a Hengst FPR/filter, last month. Hope it's not bad out of the box.

While my health is keeping me from changing out the filter right now, in preparation for a fuel system refresh, from tank to injectors, I got mine from Amazon (and a Vevor cordless ratchet) using a gift card, hoping that it would help fix my fuel delivery problem.

After installing a new fuel pump, my M54 went from running lean to running rich (like the OP's X), and stumbles on hard turns, and when I last checked fuel pressure at the rail, it suddenly dropped to zero, leading me to suspect a partially plugged up filter (original, probably filled with debris after using Jectron and Cataclean in combination), or a FPR gone bad. Hence, getting a Hengst!

I should have bought a Mahle, but I try to get good but cheaper OEM quality parts if possible.





Sent from my moto g power 5G - 2024 using Tapatalk

@workingonit
Fuel pressure suddenly dropped to zero isn't the filter. Did you post that in your thread ?

sorry to hijack the thread, but
 

Yep, I did, in post #108 of my thread (as posted on 11-15-2025) https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...inspected.html I got another fuel pressure tester (Performance Tool W80595), but haven't tried it yet. Or tried ANYTHING in two months. My arm is finally feeling better, and the Dr. hasn't recommended surgery, so I'm planning to get back at it around Feb1.

Btw, yes, he does. He has very expensive equipment which works at higher Hz, which does not cause issues.

I noticed yesterday that also while off throttle and slowing down, my little fuel economy gauge is jumping. Usually off throttle and coasting it just goes to the far left, like showing 40+,.but now I see it pulsing toward the wright side even though I'm off the throttle..so something - some sensor is telling the DME to pulse fuel I think. But meanwhile the car is not jolting forward.

I'm wondering if I'll get any fresh DME codes after the next time it stalls. I was also advised that I shouldn't be driving around with this bc it could potentially cause other issues. Ugh.
.

You might want to rig up a fuel pressure gauge attached to the schrader valve with a hose long enough to view while driving...strap it to the wipers on a dry day...

Did you clean up the DME connections ?
Grounds, engine and 2 on the coil harness?
Not a good sign when your INDI can't read the codes.

This morning I was thinking about the ignition switch, not the key switch, but the other on the left side of the steering wheel. I did have one stored error voltage supply terminal 15. But also thinking logically, this wouldn't only happen low speed off throttle and cause my rpm/fuel economy jump. Logically that would be more similar to a vac or air leak, or something. Too cold to do anything but read and Google!!!

Meanwhile, got a replacement air intake resonator for my 06, which was deformed and not mating properly with the MAF and gasket. That car needs full front control arm rebuild, but I have mechanic do that stuff since I don't have proper lift.