Steering column refresh - bearings replacement
 

I'm tracing a noise on steering that I've isolated to the steering column. A combination of light clicking and slight scraping.

Anyone here who happens to have done all the steering column bearings?

While I'm there I'd like to do all the bearings and I've identified the following. Am I on the right track?

For the upper steering column I am seeing 2 bearings, numbers 2 and 7 in the diagram?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/diag_31t.jpg

And the for the steering column lower joint assembly I see 2 plastic rings number 3 in the diagram?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/diag_1qpr.jpg

I saw a nice diy on here for upper steering column upper plastic bearing, nothing yet on the rest of the bearings/rings.

I'm watching with interested

Steering joint is a known wearing item but never heard of the axle bearings causing trouble. Slight scraping could be the clock spring.

My similar noises turned out to be the u-joint.

+1 on the clock spring for the scraping noise.
I think that's a whole unit which includes the signal switch and a bit pricey, I needed to do mine but was a looong time ago.

Thanks for the tip on the clockspring, will add to the list to check.

Any tips on confirming?

We were poking around underneath and inside the car, we didnt find play on the usual steering rack to column u-joint, and rack itself. At this point we think its above that, so column.

Clock spring will sound like it's coming from right behind the steering wheel, because that's where it is! ;) The u-joint shaft assembly will make an annoying clicking sound that seems to be more audible in the car and is a common (and expensive) problem. The green plastic seals (no.3, lower diag.) can make noise but a bit of silicon or similar spray should help with diagnosing. I think it's pretty rare for the bearings to give any trouble.

Thanks guys for the input so far!

It does sort of come from directly behind the wheel sometimes, but then again when we removed the kneepad it seemed to be from the lower column too.

$350 for the clockspring, jeez! There's a Bremmen for less than half but...it may be you get what you pay for.

I just remembered IIRC there is a paddle shifter mod that involves putting on a heated steering wheel version clock spring to get a path for the wiring from the shifter to the wheel. If I need to replace the clockspring might as well rig up paddles too lol!

EDIT: so I thought I misremembered as the E53 paddle shift retrofits I found looking now involved an E46 SMG steering wheel ($$$), bit I found a DIY for the E38 that will probably work.

Putting the link.here to so I dont lose it lol!
HowTo-> Paddle shifters from Mercedes on a E38 and yes it works! (long)

@80stech, when you replaced your clockspring, did you happen to compare both?

I'm wondering, if it were the clockspring, could it be tested by pulling the wheel, removing the clockspring, and manually spinning it left/right (within the range of motion of steering of course)?

@Clavurion @Henn28, had a tech turn the steering with another feeling the joint and no movement according to them.

No, I'm a mechanic so I knew what the noise (probably) was right away. There is a chance something else is rubbing so take the wheel off before you order if you want to make sure.
I did have the clicking from the u-joint and that was not easy to pin down exactly but it's very common so very likely that is a problem.

Thanks 80stech, will check further! Maybe swap out stuff from the 3.0 to be sure, too. I already replaced the steering u-joint on that but it was some time ago.

I recently replaced the lower green plastiic bush on mine as i get a slight clunking from the steering column. You would be surprised how worn they get. Its like a plastic bush with a teflon bearing in it. I reckon the ujoint shaft is worn but the one i have to instal has a hex location whereas the one on the car is square.. I do have the lower column shaft to fit so i may do it when iget chance.

Hi Themoog, couple of questions if you dont mind?

There are 2 of the green plastic bushes in the lower column diagram, you only replaced one?

Did you have to replace the cups/boots (#5 and 6) when you did the lower green plastic bush?

Did replacing the lower plastic bush help with your clunking?

We checked the lower steering area while the truck was on stands for a diffs/transfer case fluid change.

Got to see the green plastic rings. 1 is visible in the engine bay above the steering joint, another in the car above the brake pedal.

Both looked good and tight, and we tried shaking the lower shaft and there was no play in the rings, so I will not be doing those at this time.

We checked the steering joint again as everyone has been suggesting and y'all were right, we found some play there.

Ok. So, the geen bushes are a plastic thing with a sort of teflon ring within it. They are not tight on the steering column. Compared to a new one the one i took off mine was obviously worn. I only replaced the one in the engine bay as thats what i did at the time. With hindsight I may have been able to remove the inner bearing by pushing it through the firewall into the engine bay and swapped it out.
In my case just replacing one bearing made a difference. Its not perfect bjt better.

The clunk on mine must be the uj shaft as its more pronounced at certain steering turns..

Thanks for elaborating on this. Looks like we have the same problem.

I may have the green ring done same time as the joint as it's right there.

Is it just separate the joint from the column, then pry the ring out, and slide it back on? Does it stop/sit in the cup/boot?

OK so yesterday I eventually got round to replacing the steering shaft UJ. Bit of a pig to do on a right hand drive V8. I carefully marked the top and bottom positions to ensure that it would be in line when I did the swap.
On mine though the lower clamp part can only go one way as thare is a plastic guide lug on the rack. That meant that the upper clamp was not in the same orientation as before so now the steering wheel is off. Tomorrow when it's light I'll whip it off and straighten it up. If it's between splines then I will have to adjust the track arms a bit.
Update on outcome later.

It's a pig on the LHD's too!

How was the old joint, visibly worn?

How is the clearance to the frame rail on yours? When we were looking at mine, it seemed way too close and probably touches at times, which I think manifests as a vibration through the wheel in certain positions.

No it close but doesn't touch. As for the UJ I couldn't feel any play in it when it was off but when on the car if I gripped the joint and someone rocked the steering I could feel it.
I haven't driven it yet so I hope it's all OK.