You can use zip ties to keep the timing chain up there. I did the m52 in the e36 and it wasn't too bad. There's a lot more room in the e53. I used the chemdip parts cleaner to get the carbon while I had everything out. The plastic scraper and white plastic drill brush is pretty good for the head surface. The big problem I had on the E36 was the torque to angle bolts and the junk torque angle gauge I had. There wasn't enough room on the rear two bolts for the gauge so I ended up having to eyeball them. Going forward I would just do ARP studs, it's worth the extra money.

The m54 is aluminum, I think the big concern is some of them can strip out, so make sure the threads are very clean with the chaser tap several times and compressed air etc. I would do the ARP studs just with very light oil on the bottom threads and the moly lube up top per directions.

Cherry picker or a second person isn't a bad idea. When I pulled the b58, the head gasket was rather sticky, and I ended up dinging it on one of the dowel pins, right on the fire ring. I had to get the head decked just because of that. I did the m52 by myself and was careful to give it a good rip up and out and then watch the dowel pins when setting it down.

Pulling the engine isn't a bad idea but if you do that you might as well just knock the rotating assembly out and send the block out etc. Then you won't drive the car for 6 months and it will cost you over 5k. Tough call, I've been there

Eric at Importapart is a stand-up guy in a shady-as-f business. I wouldn't hesistate to buy something from him.

He put a blown-up Lambo V10 on the stand last Saturday.

I've been wanting to watch that video. I first watched his N55 tear down after mine self destructed. Two months later wife's also.

Mine i think boost got into the crankcase and besides blowing out front and back main seals, it disrupted oil flow to the rod bearings and seized beyond words.

It took a 24" pipe wrench on the crank pulley and a 10# sledge hammer about a dozen hits to get to to start turning (need to turn the engine to separate the transmission)!

Once I got it to turn at all I used a 1m long 3/4 drivev ratchet to hand turn the motor.

Wife's died with an interesting mode I've not heard of before: the OFHG blew out; sprayed the entire side of the motor with oil and apparently lost enough pressure to starve a bearing or two.

In my case a couple shells welded to the crank. I haven't done the autopsy on wife's yet.

I prob reset the clock at least 120-150k miles so i could get 8+ years out of the $5500 or so i put in. Much better than any other option really.

And bonus: my insurance went down in spite of a nearly $4000 deer related payout 2 years ago. (and i have $0 deductible for comp).


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N55 OFHG strikes again... the one in my F30 is still dry after 12 years, but it's just barely over 40Kmi too. I try to remember to pop the hood and check every couple months.

I cut a notch in the intake on wife's car so i can change the gasket in an hour every couple years preventive.

I still need to cut mine but I'll be taking intake off to walnut blast in spring I'll do it then.

I'm not sure what failed on my car to inject boost into the crankcase but the vacuum tank on the valve cover also has oil.


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I have the odd swivel socket for that eventuality. They call it the Bitch Bolt on the F30 forums.