Steering rack adjustment
 

Has anyone adjusted the preload or replaced the bushing with a kit to stop clunking from the front end?
I've been chasing a clunking / knocking from somewhere in the steering that feels like it's coming up into the column and I think I've narrowed it down to either the inner tie rods or the rack itself.
I've had someone rock the steering wheel side to side while I lay underneath and there is definitely a knocking.
If I shake the tie rods up and down or side to side I can't feel anything so it possible that they can wear in the horizontal plane only? With the wheels off the ground I can't feel any play by rocking them at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
Failing that it must be the rack itself that's loose somewhere as I've replaced the steering shaft and column bearings already.
Thoughts?

Steering rack adjustment
 

Happened to me it was the rack wearing. It'll cause clunking and also in my case wheel wobble in curves.

I bought a replacement but never had a chance to install; deer killed the car.

My redneck fix was to change the toe enough on both tie rods to have unworn teeth at the center. Pick based on which way you steer less. It's just a punt until you can change the rack.

–awr–

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Have you ruled out the double universal joint on the steering column?

Installed a new one..
Another mention - if I hit the brakes at 60-70 mph I get a violent shaking in the steering wheel. That could possibly be the front rotors as I had a caliper stuck a while ago but could also be related to the steering rack / inner tie rods. I think.

Brake shake usually from rear control arms but mine was the steering rack. Same symptoms.

The diagnoses: have somebody turn the steering wheel back and forth engine off while your have hand on the rack or even the tie rod.

The tap from backlash is unmistakable. It’ll tap both directions.

There’s some backlash even when new but it should be silent and not be able to feel it.

You can tell if the slop is in the input/shaft or output/tie rods fairly easily.

If I read correctly you already performed this test.

You should be able to confirm by adjusting the toe off center.

Loosen both tie rods and adjust them way off to one side. Maybe an inch but count the turns and do both sides the same. It’ll make your steering wheel off center when going straight but will move the rack to a different spot. If the pinion gear isn’t worn you should see the symptoms improve.

You can test before you do this by turning the wheels off center then do the back/forth backlash test.

If still clicks, pinion, if it stops it’s the rack teeth and the redneck fix will work until you replace the steering gear.


–awr–

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Have you checked the tension strut ball joints? I changed a lot of stuff chasing a bad clunk on corners and bumps, and it ended up being badly worn ball joints.

All the other joints are OK. The knocking is definitely in the rack or inner tie rods. I happened across a YouTube video where a guy with an E53 has exactly the same symptoms and he tightened the preloaded bolt by 15 degrees and that shut it up so I'm going to give that a try first later as it doesn't cost me anything..
If that doesn't do anything then I'm going to buy new inner and outer tie rods and church them on. If the roads here in the UK weren't so bad and full of holes I would never have noticed..

That is classic for thrust arm bushings being shot. Recommend replacing them with poly bushings. They have a lifetime warranty. I have around 100,000 miles on mine. They're as good as new.

It's had poly thrust arm bushes on for years. That brake pedal wobble used to happen at 40 mph but that's gone since I rebuilt the front calipers so it has to be the front rotors.
I have a set of inner and outer tie rods on the way so when I get chance I'll chuck them on and see what happens.

In my case my tech showed me it was the rack and not the rack ends by unfastening the boot and rocking the tie rod up and down. He showed me it was the rack moving.

He adjusted preload and it went away...for now.

I think the only real fix is an overhaul or new rack.

You can def see/feel the rack move with the ends still attached and you can def tell it's not the ends. That said I'd like to know more about this "preload" as I've only replaced worn racks i didn't know there's adjustment. I'm guessing some amount of adjustment of how tight the pinion pushes into the rack or something? Of course the rack only wears in the middle so i suspect any tightening will make it bind off center so I'm very curious about this.

I'm all about fixes that can punt a repair until next year though so fill me in!


–awr–

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Andrew, right underneath the driver's side of the rack, you should see a big hex head with an adjustment slot (IIRC).

Loosen the hex head and you can use a screwdriver to tighten or loosen to increase/decrease preload.

I can get knocking to go away but rack gets too tight. Rack probably too far gone. Hope you can adjust yours out.

Had a new set of inner and outer tie rods delivered today. I was going to to do it on Sunday but now I'm having to replace the rear hatch handle on the daughters Freelander as it's broken due to heavy handedness no doubt..
I did notice this morning on my X5 that when I shook the steering wheel from side to side I could hear and feel an audible clunk in the rack area. When I started the engine it almost went away. Odd.