12v DC
 

I bought some new KC lights for the X5 recently and had some brackets modified and welded on my oil cooler bar. The incandescent lights I had on the X5 just were not cutting it, but I like the old school, round look, rather than the light bar look.

Fortunately KC makes some larger, modular LEDs so I bought a set of three, which fit great on the front.
https://i.postimg.cc/6qRxZSP1/PXL-20...9-Original.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/T1mvbSsN/PXL-20...P-Original.jpg

Unfortunately the original harness won’t work as the plugs are different and the news ones draw more power and need a relay set up. KC supplies a harness with the kit, which has everything needed, and seems super durable (waterproof plugs, connections, etc.). Unfortunately I needed to strip out my old harness and re-wire with the heavier gage new one.

I was hopeful I could grab 12v switched (or always hot) power from the passenger side “cigarette” style plug and run it to the switch for the lights, to power the relay. After running the wire and splicing it in however, I’m not getting 12v dc from it. Was this plug a feature that didn’t work maybe in all markets? Hopefully it’s just shoddy workmanship on my part and I can figure out thst my splice is bad.

I'm not sure about the passenger socket, I even forgot we have that lol!

What I'm wondering is if it's ok to get your supply power from there? Arent those usually rated just to 15 amps or so?

Maybe it's switched with the key, or somebody didn't reconnect it. The quick and easy way would be to run 2 conductor cable (speaker wire) and use the same power you are using as a main for the lights. I'm assuming you are not wanting to run the lights with the cigarette lighter power.

Thanks Gents. I hadn’t thought that the socket might have too many amps for the switch, but that does make sense. The need for the relay is because the new lights draw too much power for the switch, so I might be just putting that power back into the switch wiring the relay from the socket? Wiring isn’t my strong suit!

I’m thinking I could grab power from the flashlight charger maybe, or the glove box light too. I’m thinking those would draw fewer amps.

I think I get what you are saying 80s, but maybe not. Can I power the relay and the lights from the same battery post? Like my previous setup, I’m going to use the terminal by the brake booster/master cylinder. If I connected both the light hot wire, and the relay wire there, wouldn’t the lights work all the time, basically cutting the switch out of the setup?

The purpose of the relay is exactly so that the power for the lights doesn't need to flow through the switch, the only power flowing through the switch should be what's needed to switch the relay NOT the lights so should be no problem getting that power from another circuit such as cigarette lighter or flashlight etc. often one that is also switched with the key so that lights will go off automatically with the key OR using the same circuit that you are powering the lights with (battery or jump terminal) which is easy since you need to run a wire anyway, just now with 2 conductors, but you then need to make sure you turn off the lights with the switch since it will be live all the time. If you google you should easily find a wiring diagram.

With a 2 conductor cable to the switch you could also use power for the switch from something under the hood that as switched with the key if that's what you are looking to do, so you don't have to mess around under the dash at all except to mount the switch.

Yes 80stech said it clearer probably, what I was trying to say is get power for the lights from a fused line direct from battery, but with the switch powered with ignition on.

I'd prefer to get your switch power from the park light so you can only turn on those aux lights with the park lights on.

I'd be looking at wiring though as I'd be concerned with pissing off the LCM. Hopefully someone whose wired up lights like yours can chime in.

Thanks fellas….ill see what else I can tap into. I appreciate the follow-up and will study the diagram!

12v Dc - success
 

Thanks for all the insight fellas. Any day I get a working job successfully completed on the X5 is a good one. The lights are working, controlled by the switch I added to the ashtray cig lighter socket before. The switch is powered with the ignition in position one, and unpowered with the ignition fully off, which is nice.

Since I had already run a power wire for the switched relay under the dash from the ash tray to the cigarette socket in the pax footwell, I decided to first try to move it to the flashlight charger power, behind the glove box. The kick panel(s) came out quickly and from there it’s easy to reach behind and unplug the charger socket. A quick check for power (it’s powered at ignition position 1) and then the splice. I fumbled for a bit trying to plug it back in, but eventually got it. One more voltage check at where the wire comes out at the ash tray and I verified 11.8 V (engine off, key position 1).
Splice circled:
https://i.postimg.cc/CMf1G9Z7/PXL-20...8-Original.jpg
Next up was to route the load end of the provided harness to the KC lights and then pull the other end of the harness through the firewall. The plug end went under the oil filter bracket and behind the left front light, secured with a couple of zip ties to convenient wire bundles. The plug on the lights is just long enough to extend into the bumper a bit via the cooling slot, where it plugged into the harness.

Initially I wanted to keep the relay and load power fuse/wiring on the cabin side of the cowl, with the brake booster, etc., because it is a bit messy. However, I decided eventually putting it all under the hood on the engine side would be less moisture prone. The relay mounted with a self tapping screw and the fuse assembly mounted to a convenient threaded stud on the strut tower. Not sure what it is for, but it has a plastic nut on it.
https://i.postimg.cc/jST40HVm/PXL-20...2-Original.jpg
I pulled the switch wires through the firewall by taping it to the old light wiring and gently pulling it all the way through and out of the cigarette lighter hole, to meet the relay power wire I had run initially. The harness from KC already had spade connectors for the switch on it, and I put one on the relay hot wire I ran.
https://i.postimg.cc/rFXpQgWN/PXL-20...9-Original.jpg
Way too much wire included on this side of the relay for the switch wiring:
https://i.postimg.cc/dtP04nd9/PXL-20...1-Original.jpg
I chopped it down to an approximate length, and spliced it back together with some crimped in-line wire splice pieces.

After that I cleaned up under the hood and drivers side footwell with cloth electrical tape and a few zips, tested it successfully, and buttoned the beast up.

I’m excited to see how bright these things are, and get them aimed properly. They are very focused it seems. If I lowered my head a few more inches in the below pic, they become blindingly bright.
https://i.postimg.cc/sDd2wKSm/PXL-20...4-Original.jpg