CV Boot Replacement help!
 

:tsk: I currently have a 2002 X5 3.0. The driver's front outside boot has cracked. It was detected early enough that I decided on replacing the boot. I ordered the kit and the TIS cd's. This brings me to my problem. I have read the several threads on here on what to do once I get to the "replacing the boot" part. I understand that much. I don't quite understand what I need to remove after the rotor is pulled off. I also don't know if I need any specialty tools at this point either. I was hoping that anyone who has done this job could give me some information. This is a great site, and I already am thankful to all who post on it.

Thanks,

Sparky

36 mm (?) 12 point socket. Looong Breaker bar. Remove the staved part of the nut before you try to break it loose. Buy a new nut if it is not in the kit. KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN once you get the old grease off and the new grease on before you fit the boot. Dirt is your enemy here.

Thanks Zulu........that much I was already aware of. It's what to do after removing the rotor where I am hung up.

i had my replace by the independent shop that much cheaper than dealer.
to do this job you need to remove all tha break parts and the rotor. and remove the steringwheel nucle to able to replace it. if you goin to do it yuorself you will need at leaseeeeee 12 hours job. i got my done at 1/2 price of dealer. goodluck.

i guess i'll be doing this diy job in the next week or so... was just told that CPO warranties do not cover suspension parts (so what good is it for you may ask...I'm not sure yet...)

just found mine torn while i was washing the wheels. inside of the driver's front wheel was full of thick grease. only that one wheel. so i lifted the car and found the torn outer cv boot.

a local dealer quoted me ~$450 for parts and labor. Trusty Crevier quoted me parts for less then $30... economies don't exactly match up there...

It covered mine @ 61k. I am getting the whole shaft replaced

i think its because you are getting the whole shaft replacement (part of the drivetrain which is covered by cpo warranty). did they find other damaged parts to justify the whole half shaft replacement?

on mine, there is no damage to the cv joint or front differential or anything. its just the boot recently tore. there's still alot of grease left on the joint itself and inside the boot still... (i guess i'm lucky i caught it very early on)

i'll post pics of the torn boot later tonight.

EDIT: Just got more clarification from my SA@Crevier. The dealers used to send CV boot repairs through fine up to 6+ months ago. Then BMWNA stopped paying the dealers for the repair work and rejected the claims... so this is a recent BMWNA action... standard quote for the the work is 4.8 hrs @ dealer's hourly rate.

Looks like some midnight mechanic hours ahead for me...

There were a post in here that have some diy how to remove the CV JOINT but not for the x5. what I am interesting in is that after you remove the nut at central hub will that release the CV joint or you have to loose some supports from the A suspension. Here are some links

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...highlight=boot

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...highlight=boot

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...46&hg=31&fg=20

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...highlight=boot

Lennox,
I just sent you a PM about the DIY. Not very specific but it should help

hayaku,

How is your cv boot works going? Any pics?

oh sorry.. i haven't started the work yet... just took pics of the damage so far...

i'm going to crevier today to pick up the repair kit. i'll do both inner and outer boots anyways...

Looking at the TIS instructions, in order to do this correctly you will need to do the following:

Remove the front wheel
Remove the reinforcement plate and engine underguard
Remove the ABS pulse generator
Remove brake caliper and rotor
Force steering tie rod off swivel bearing (hub)
Remove tension strut with guide joint from swivel bearing
Remove control arm from swivel bearing
Release collar nut on the output shaft and press output shaft out of drive flange

That gets the shaft out of the car. Now for the actual service of the cv boots, wheel side first:

Release the retainers and pull back the gaiters
Press off the joint
Lever out the retaining clip
Pull off gaiter.

Installation is reverse.
Put on gaiter
Put in new retaining clip
Press on joint
Put in new grease
Secure the gaiters in place

Differential side:

Release retainers and pull back gaiter
Detach tulip element
Remove retaining ring
Detach tripod star joint
Pull off gaiter

Installation is the reverse
Assemble 2 part gaiters and put on the shaft
Put the tripod star joint in with flat side to retaining ring
Clip in retaining ring
Apply new grease
Attach the tulip element
Secure the gaiter retainers in place.

Then its time to reinstall the shaft and put in a new radial seal in the differential.

TIS lists several special tools:
Radial Seal Driver (part number 31 5 130)
Output shaft pry bar (part number 31 5 110)
Tie Rod Press (part number 32 3 090)
Control Arm Press (part number 31 2 240)
Special Hub removal tools (part numbers: 33 2 111, 33 2 115, 33 2 116, 33 2 117, 33 2 118, 33 2 150)
Slide Hammer (part number 33 4 200)

You may or may not need the special tools... I know that Drex and JV were able to change their control arms without the special control arm press as an example.

The gaiter repair kit should only have grease, new rubber boots, and clips. There is a specific kit for each end. You will need a new radial seal if you are changing the upper gaiter as well.

now I can see how this is an 4-5 hr job...

BAV Auto Output shafts
 

Sorry to pull up an old thread. Has anyone ever installed the outputshaft from BAV Auto? They are much less expensive than the BMW OEM ones. Thinking of giving them a shot since I can put entire new shafts in versus just repairing the boots on the old ones.

Thanks!!

I didn't get the BAV Auto.
If I had to replace the axle shafts today(12/14/09) I would order online from Advanced Auto the GSP ones($69.99 for left, $74.99 - right) and use the coupon code HOLIDAY10 to get $10 off the order and choose instore pickup.
CV and Axle Parts - Advance Auto Parts

The $10 coupon code is valid for today only until 11:59 PM PST.
$10 off orders of $50 or more - Advance Auto Parts

Thanks. I ordered these, but I gotta say I am nervous about putting $70 shaft on the x5. Has anyone actually used these before? What is the experience? Any vibration or noise?

Had my outter CV boot replaced a month ago on passenger side by indep. mechanic parts and labor much cheaper then dealer.

replaced the boots on the right side arm about a month ago and this was the process I used:

Removed the 36mm nut, rotor, caliper, carrier, abs sensor and disengaged the rear control arm from the hub. I used the 75.00 ebay hub removal tool to push the halfshaft out of the hub and then undid the two strut bolts that held the strut to the carrier. This allowed the hub/carrier to move(swing) out of the way and I was able to pull the halfshaft out from there.

I did not have to pull the halfshaft with the carrier off the car. Nor disengage the lower control arm, idler (steering) arm, or sway bar from the hub/carrier.

Used the Empi boots from Autohaus then took the car on a 1200 mile trip with no issues. Just waiting for the driver side to go next.

+1
I have a torn boot, and I wonder if I should just replace instead of doing a boot repair at this price? Anyway, how did these work out for you?


How much did you pay?

I went the route of having a rebuilt shaft put in...all new insides...by independent mechanic. Paid around $300 total, and definitely worth it. Havent had issues since and the work was done about 1 1/2 yrs ago.

lennox...where is your indy shop in nj??

thanks

I, too, would be interested in the location of a good NJ indy, as I get up there 3-4x/yr

My indy in My Pleasant, SC recommends using OEM CV boots as they are much thicker than aftermarket