Transmission jerking??
 

Hi all, just got my first 2001 X5 a few week with some concerns: it shakes sometimes (usually in 3rd gear) just before switching into 4th. I also get the rpm's go up and down (about 200 rpm) while cruising. Anyone have similar issues or ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks

my tranny jerks into third gear sometimes. When you find out what to do for that let me know. My thought is to have the dealer upgrade the tranny software or maybe delete some old driving styles that might be in thhe computer memory

Cool I'll try the resetting method for driving styles, if not, then I'll try upgrading software and keep posted on what happens...

resetting didn't help... but I noticed it doesn't shake in third in manual mode, just in automatic. The rpm up an down it does it no matter if it's in auto or manual, I think this is a different problem though... :mad:

How do you reset the driving styles?

I beleive it's turn on ignition to accesory for 10 seconds, then off for 10 secs, then start. Can anyone confirm?

The only process I have heard about is to disconnect and then reconnect the battery...

Hi did you guys find what the problem was. I am having the exact same problem on my 2003 4.4i e53. Thanks

For US spec X5, turn to acc ; press accelerator to the floor for 30sec or so (remember the engine must be off). Then start the engine like normal. Disconnecting battery for 20 min or so work as well.

Has anyone gotten any feedback on this issue? My 2000 4.4i has the same issues. When its shaking I can throw the shifter into sport/manual mode and it stops immediately. ??? I like to know how to get rid of it as well..

Shimmy
 

My 03 x5 4.4i is starting the shimmy also. I usually drive in Sport mode. Cleared the driving memory so we shall see on the road tomorrow. I have a sick feeling that it's a tranny issue. Please post up if you have any info.

In accessory for 10 sec, then off, then starting is to reset the throttle response

4.4i 2000 same story pretty intermittent,5 days of shuddering,per say,2 weeks without.
Tranny was rebuilt,the issue came back the very first day....
did anybody try changing the MAF?
I am trying to get one OE ,so far didn't have spare change for it...

I have the same issue still no fix. Changing MAF does not help. Can anybody provide some info on this problem. Thanks

I reset the tranny programing and it seems to be a little better. Doesn't shudder as much or as bad as before. Maybe a programing issue, especially since some have had thier tranny replaced or rebuilt and the issue returned immediatley. I've always noticed if you give it more gas or let off the gas a little it stops immediatly, just as driving in sport/manual mode it doesn't do it at all. But still do not know what it it causing it..:dunno:

Same issue with my 03 4.4i Sport too. More noticeable when engine is warm and with more weight in car. Have tried MAF cleaning and coolant flush but does not help. Only band-aid that works is putting it in Sport or go heavier on the pedal. Does anyone know which years the transmission software upgrade is available for and if it solves the problem?

My 2002 4.4 does EXACTLY what the op posted. I am going in today (for the third time) to get this resolved.

Here is my theory. ......

We all understand why wheels need balanced. And we all understand when they are not, they can get shakey, jerky, vibrate, (what ever yiu wanna call it) ONLY AT CERTIN SPEEDS.
This is called "harmonic balance" the natural vibrations of an object spinning. NOW, our motors spin, and also have this same issue. At some rpm's our motor is very "harmonically balanced" and at other rpm's..... not so much.

I believe that if the motor mounts were worn out, loose, ext... That this could give us this "shake" at a certin rpm.

Two reasons. Those of use who have this issue... It's IDENTICAL to one another.
PLUS have you notice that when this issue is happening, you can REV right past it? Typicly when a motor is running rough, and you add throttle, the motor struggles to "REV out of it".

With this issue, I can REV out at any speed, slowly, quick or what ever.

I will be with the Teck when my ride is up on the lift. This problem is over TODAY!!!!!!

Jordo, just curious what was done on the first two attempts? I like your theory but have a feeling that there will be a fourth time in on the near horizon. Good luck, let us know how it goes...

You are right... My theory was proved to be wrong. What I did find is that it is most def trany issue.
The issue is line pressure is just a touch too low at that RPM/speed/gear. This is causing the hyd pressure on the clutch to insufficient and the clutchs are "kicking back".

Teck told me a trany flush may fix this.
Or a trany update may fix it but he stressed no guaranty.
Othe possibility is the hyd valve block is scored and the valve body is hanging up causing what we feel.

So to recap.... Could be fixed by a flush and a program upgrade total of $250.

This is back up by issue instantly going away by switching into sport mode.

At post 17 by Jordo I was thinking exactly what he said at post 19 , pressure issues so Jordo here is some candy for you to get your teeth into , enjoy .
My visit at ZF Dortmund for Gearbox maintenance.(very, very long!) HUGH RESULT!!
Servicing The e38 Automatic Transmission
http://e38.org/transfund1.pdf
Transmission issues cured by new voltage regulator/transmission cooler? Has
Troublesshooting

Hi Guys,
I have the same exact problem with my trany I guess for the past 2 weeks after reading your responses and comments.
I have 2000 X5 4.4 as original owner with little over 174,000 miles....and still clicking in full throttle...

However, today it was enough and I took my baby to a local BMW dealer to check this trany problem before the weekend.

First, after all diagnostics, I have been told by Tech, that I need my trany flush and that should take care the problem I am having, so I authorized the service.....but after all the work and testings, the same problem still remain without any changes ! At the end, Chief Tech came to me and he said that he needs to create a complete Service Claim file to send it to BMW North America for further investigation/assistance since this is their first case like this. I should hear from them within the week.

If someone is trying something different, keep us posted and I will do the same. Good luck.

Great reading man! I only took about 15 mins to look over this (at work when I saw your post) I plan on sitting down and really going over this, and taking notes too.

But I have a few quick questions.
1st) what is the call name to our X5 trannys?
2nd) if it's not the same name, are the componets the same?
3rd) what was shown with the dude who was in Germany is that sold complete, so I could just install the new "brain" as he called it and just throw mine away?

Thank you for your input! You really go my gears turning! lol.

You should check the links that show the 1000's of parts involved in a auto tranny in the post 2 above this one. I believe that any number of these parts could ware out and give us the symptoms that we feel. lol, what ever it is, it's the same part as we all have the exact same issue!
I fear that we may be forced to do a rebulid as there are to many parts that "could" be it to guess, sugesst that it is one particular one.

My visit at ZF Dortmund for Gearbox maintenance.(very, very long!) HUGH RESULT!!

Amazing write up!!!!

I feel like such a Rookie! I wonder if there's anyone in the states that would actually take that much care doing that job.

:)

This site sells the valve body. I think it's the complete unit?
Here is the site....
ZF RWD Transmissions ZF5HP24 Makco Transmission Parts

This issue still could be a programing/control box issue right?

If we feel that it is very likely that it is all in the valve body I will go ahead and order it and install it. But I will be nasty pissed if I go through that hassle and I'm wrong.

Your thoughts?

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i A5S440Z MOUNTING PARTS CONTROL UNIT

this link shows pressure regulators which could be the cause but many other things could be the cause
internal wiring
internal components
external wiring to tranny , or anything else could cause issue .
I would need a lot of time to study this to come up with an answer but I can`t test your individual cars to try to pinpoint a solution .
@ Jordo , my X and your X use the ZF A5S 440Z - 4 wheel transmission , they are all similar , the one in the link at Dortmund is similar , all they did was a proper transmission service replacing a few parts with updated parts . kits are available .
read the pdf link in my previous post , there is good insight into how the torque converters work and all the internals.
I think you will come up with something good out of all this .

it`s really not very difficult . take time to digest it all .it seems very daunting at first but it`s only nuts and bolts . care and cleanliness are essential .

all the parts are available for diy cheaper than buying a module from bmw
I would not go throwing parts at it until I had identified a fix .
otherwise I would just wait for the tranny to give big problems before doing a rebuild .
the service shown at Dortmund is a reasonable attempt at a fix , can`t do any harm .the valve body kit on your link is only $173 , you could fill new fluid or filter and re-use the old fluid .

Jordo , one thing just dawned on me ,your symptoms sound to me like differential backlash common to 4wd vehicles .
they have a front , centre and rear diff and sometimes they are not always in harmony .
I have experience a few subtle shudders through the X5 whist rolling to almost stop then applying power .
I had an Audi 4wd do similar and a Toyota Landcruiser Amazon give very bad shudders at times .
maybe all this is a non issue .

Anyone have any updates??? I do want to say that It does not seem as bad or as often since the temp has dropped here...

Wish I could say the same. Mine suddenly got much worse. It even developed new symptoms! Funny tho..... it only got worse when I checked the fluid level, and found it was low. I added about 1/2 quart of dexron VI. And it was all down hioll from there.

I did find a "ZF Certified" transmission repair shop in Reading PA. (45 mins from me)

Droped my X off there last night and just got a call from them, saying they recorded all the codes and need to remove the trany. I'll have much more detail in 24 hrs.

hang tight.

Hey,check out the Post #43
Engine S-H-U-D-D-E-R under low speed power - Page 2 - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

He is right I think.

Also I read the bulletin from BMW and for ZF transmissions it states :

USE ONLY ESSO ATF LT 71141 BMW PART NUMBER 83 22 9 407 807 20 LITER BLUE – LIFETIME FILL
Clear enough IMO...next time I am gonna DIY once the warranty in off..in a year.
Mine is shuddering yet...and originally it started to shudder once the ATF was changed( no TC drain though)...after the rebuilt I think the shop didn't really follow the procedure the way it should've been. As it was a second ZF tranny ever for them...anyway..I need this shudder gone,the lurch is gone,so shudder will be too :) some day.

Never put Dexron transmission fluid in a ZF transmission. It does go in the 3.0 (GM) transmission.

That's what mine's got filled with apparently....
JCL tell me if you know,what mixing of different fluids would cause?
Example :

When I bought my X it was sitting for at list a year and tranny's fluid was jelly alike dark something. Local shop had drained the half and refilled with I don't know what..well I would say that I haven't researched anything about the fluids etc. at that point and this one being my first Auto box ever never thought there's a difference..
So after about 1500 kms I started to get Lurch and shuddering,shuddering appeared way later and so subtle at the beginning,so I wasn't really worried,but it's got way worse and more frequent,and I finally decided to get a rebuild as reverse started to jerk as well...
So,if I drain the fluid now,I would be able to get half drained.If I refill with a proper fluid ,would the mix of different fluids hurt the anything?
Or I should go to the shop and get a proper flush and refill?
This option would cost me extra,because from their point they performed everything correctly the first time.

Read every word of this!!!! This is the answer!!!

BMW Case Study - E38 2000 740i misfire juddering

Any updates on any of the guys that said they were taking thier X in for tranny work? I like to know what the results were?

It's going in for the warranty fix,transmission guy contacted the ZF and they said that there's a part that get's changed every time you rebuild no matter how good looking it is.I am a bit confused as he couldn't really explain what it is.
I read that there's something in clutch A getting more clearance than expected over the time and causes some pressure to escape which is getting into the shudder.
I had the fluid flushed twice by the shop,shifts are so smooth and nice,but once in a while I get the freaking shudder and if before it was just under light throttle,now I get it under moderate throttle when going up hill + the light throttle as well.
And it sucks.
I am gonna write as soon as I get some updates.
This thread is bookmarked :)

The ZF 5HP24 transmission (A5S 440Z) is very unusual in that, in order to save weight & space, ZF removed the torsional vibration damper from the lock-up clutch and instead rely on their ‘controlled slip’ system to modulate the LUC pressures and prevent the transmission of torsional vibration at lower engine speeds.

To achieve this, the transmission control system has to be extremely sophisticated and highly sensitive to load/power. As an example, the graph below shows a constant 50mph with the cruise control activated. The throttle (shown by the blue line) is opening & closing to maintain vehicle speed as the vehicle goes up & down hill etc. as you would expect. However, the magenta line shows the current being supplied to Solenoid 4 (which pressurises the torque converter lock-up clutch) as a percentage of maximum. You can see that the transmission ECU supplies pressure to the lock-up clutch so that it mimics exactly the throttle opening and therefore the torque seen at the clutch. This maintains a (close to) constant speed ratio across the torque converter i.e. with 3-4% slip to dampen out torsional vibrations.

At higher engine/vehicle speeds the lock-up clutch will ‘lock’ completely as there’s no longer a risk of vibration being fed through the driveline.

This controlled slip function of the lock-up clutch is one of the main reasons that it’s essential to use only LT71141 fluid in this transmission as it has been specially formulated with the right friction modifier pack for the clutch characteristics.

If a vibration can be felt in the lower gears or at low engine/vehicle speeds or the engine speed fluctuates by a few hundred rpm then it could be the torque converter lock-up clutch at fault.

Phil

It was the torque converter badly rebuilt in my case.