4.4 pcv hoses
 

I replaced those “gummy” hoses on the back of the engine last night. I think the dealer charges $75 for the pcv hoses at the back of the engine and another $200 or so to install them. I spent $7.00 for some 3/4” heater hose and a couple of zip ties. It's a pretty easy DIY.

:thumbup:

Pics?

I know more about cars than I do about computers and I don't know much about cars. I'll try to get it figured out and post some.

Any pics?

email me the pics and I will post them... [email protected]

Heres the pics
 

:)
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...h_IMG_5974.jpghttp://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...h_IMG_5973.jpg

Did you also replace the 1/2" hose which goes from the bottom of the air/oil separator to the drain line. It's about 5" long and is a PITA to change. I found mine to be completely "gummied" through. It caused and oil and vacuum leak. Oil was draining down the passensger side of the engine onto the skid plate.

Thanks Silver 5
No supersteve I'll have to check that. After I changed the 2 hoses the actron read no codes. It was reading p1161. I thought maybe all the vacuum leaks were fixed.

To check for a leak you can either look through the passenger side front wheel well or climb underneath and look at the skid plate. To see the hose you'll need to pull the engine cover and use a mirror and flashlight. The hose comes off the bottom of the air/oil separator and turns towards to passenger side of the engine. The end of the hose attached to the air/oil separator has a perminant hose clamp. The other end, attached to the drain line, has a worm clamp on it.

You'll need about 5" of 1/2" heater hose and one new clamp, Oh and a lot of patience.

Loosen the worm clamp on the drain line. Loosen the 8mm bolts holding the air/oil separator the the intake bracket and pull it out. Sounds easy right. Cut the permanant clamp off the old hose put the new hose on with the new worm clamp. Now the fun of putting it back together. The hardest part is getting the new hose and the air/oil separator back in to place. Don't put the old worm clamp back on the new hose until you have the hose fished through the other plumbing. Don't remount the air/oil separator until you have the old clamp back on the hose. After that it's gravey.

Another place the look for leaks is the 1/4" hoses with the blue and white stripes on top of the engine. My blue one had rotted through down by the secondary air pump controller. You'll need to pull the air intake tube to get to that one.

supersteve: is part no. 9 on this diagram what you are referring too? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=11&fg=15
I've also changed the crankcase hoses but did not check the return/drain hose. Doesn't sound like a fun job.