Replacing PS pressure hose - PS questions
 

I am replacing the high pressure hose from the power steering pump to the rack. I know I need Dex III from searching, but no one mentions how much the system takes. I anticipate losing most of the fluid, at least half, and changing it out is good anyhow, as I am not sure if it has been done before.

Additionally, if anyone knows the proper bleeding proceedure for the PS system, that would be great. I was planning on using the standard 'fill 'till it does not take any more, run, turn unloaded, lower, raise,' etc process to bleed the air out, but if there is a particular system these cars require I would love to know it.

Also, those of you who turkey baster the fluid out of the reservoir - how can this change more than about half of the fluid at one time? The amount in the lines and what is in the rack has got to be equal to if not more than what is in the res. I wouldn't expect you to ever get really off colored PS fluid, but it might froth out, break down or absorb some moisture, none of which you would probably be able to notice in all but the most dire examples. Still, not something you want. Can anyone explain that to me further?

I just replaced the rubber power steering hose that goes from the pump to the rack. I tried to cover up as much as possible to avoid dripping fluid into all the cracks and what not, and removed the connection at the pump first. Its 17mm, and all I had that would fit in there was a POS crescent wrench, but it worked. I would get one of the small half moon shaped wrenches to give yourself more room. I dropped that down and immediately put a funnel ziptied to a crossmember to hold it in place so it would drain into my oil drain pan. When I dropped the hose down I let it sit in the oil pan. I didnt measure how much fluid came out, but I dont think it was anywhere near a quart. I then removed the other side (at the rack), thats 19mm socket and I had a socket wrench that bends at the head and halfway through the handle, that was helpful. Not a whole lot of room with anything on the X5, I'm finding. Not too much fluid came out of that area. There is a 10mm (I think) nut holding the bracket at the U-bend of the hose (passenger side). Put the new one in and tightened it all up.

I had some Amsoil ATF left so I used that. I had the front jacked up, and added fluid. Slowly turned from left to right an back again. Checked the fluid, added more. I think I did that three times. At first there was some groaning but by the third time it was silent. I'll drive it tomorrow to work and check it when I get home (about 80 miles round trip).

I saw your post today right before I started and was hoping that there was a reply with some detailed info, but no joy. So I went ahead and it wasnt too bad, other than the almost non-existent working room. The mess wasnt as bad as I thought it would be though, and I probably saved a ton over what the dealer would have charged.

Good luck!



I had some Amsoil ATF left so I used that.

Yes, that's pretty much it. A flare wrench would be quite nice as you pointed out. Good idea on the funnel. It is pretty straight forward; the biggest thing is to remember to top off the fluid before you start it so you don't burn up the pump.

I forgot to ever post a follow up to this, but you pretty much covered it.

jizay - Glad all sorted- nice write up, (good tip re the zip tie and funnel).

I've got the part sat in my garage.The way you have posted it seems a straight enough job but seems a bit tight in terms of available working space which is putting me off a bit. I only have basic non ratchet spanners, (ring and open ended), as well as a pretty basic socket set with a straight handle about 12 inches long -pretty standard budget kit really and with a couple of non flexible adapters and extensions. I see you used quality kit. My car has so far gone to main dealer for inspections/service & until recently a contact of mine (bmw technician on late stuff) was available to do the odd bit for me but he has now moved from the area. On other cars I've done a (supervised) cambelt change, plus coolant hose network change, oil,filters, plugs etc without problems so I have some experience of getting hands dirty.

1. Would you put this at a skill rating 3 on a 1 to 10 difficulty, (if not where) ?

2. Am I wasting my time without extra tools ?

3. Should I be concerned re tightening of nuts or is it just a case of using common sense, exprerince & feel, (Due to pressure hose could under tightening result in leaking & over tightening cause damage) ?

Would appreciate your thoughts prepared to share them. No rush to do this as and when my time and motivation permits. My existing hose is only leaking a very small ammount - no visible drop in PAS reservoir level.


Thanks in advance.

after changing the high pressure hose for PS it takes about 0.75 litres of oil back

any pictures of where this hose is? or how I would locate it??

Yeah that is about right. Just don't forget to add fluid before you turn the car on again or you will burn out your pump.

I did this with a screwdriver (to remove the plastic shield), annd three open end wrenches: one for the support bracket on the passenger side where the hose turns 180*, one for the high presure connection on the pump and one for the bolt onto the steering rack.

Not really. Common sense will do. You must get new copper crush washers for the line that goes into the steering rack - you need two, one for each side of the banjo bolt. After you add your fluid back in, you can then start the car and see if you have any leakage. I did not have to retighten anything.

klnteg: You have to take the lower front most plastic splash shield off the car, and it will be the first big rubber hose you see after you get that off. It has metal links in the middle, and goes from the pump to the steering rack via a u bend on the drivers side.

Be carefull about this hose when you are getting it - the fitting that attaches to the pump changes at some point, and the later version is not compatible with the earlier pump.

Thanks - tbh when I bought the part my technician contact was going to do it by private arrangement- now he's moved so looks like it may be down to me. Certainly didn't realise re the extra washers- thanks.

I assume an open end wrench is just what we call in uk a spanner, (not a ratchet spanner),

re getting the wrong part info for klenteg I would just say whenever I order parts from main dealer I always give my VIN so right part for my car is always supplied - hopefully.

Any step-by-step procedures with images?

Would love to claim to have done it but in the end I couldnt be bothering and paid someone else to do it.

Fwiw I still have a small leak & unsure if the new hose failed, was fitted incorrectly or whether the problem is something back of the hose & further up.

It's all a bit tight for space and difiicult to see where the actual problem is.

Lo jack may be able to assist but but in mind this is now an old thread.